Want To Remove Your Trunk Springs?? Look Inside!!
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Looks like it might be an interesting mod to do
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Great sticky!!! Doing mine this afternoon.
Just an FYI, everything I've found stated that air springs need to be mounted "shaft down", in order to keep the seals constantly lubricated.
Check it out here...
http://www.guden.com/Control/GasSpringFAQ
Thanks for doing all of the hard work for us. Now I can open my trunk normally!
Just an FYI, everything I've found stated that air springs need to be mounted "shaft down", in order to keep the seals constantly lubricated.
Check it out here...
http://www.guden.com/Control/GasSpringFAQ
Thanks for doing all of the hard work for us. Now I can open my trunk normally!
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43 Posts
Got mine all wrapped up, and all is well. It takes a little more pressure than I was expecting to open the trunk, but it's still a hundred times better than not having any type of assistance lifting the trunk lid. If my struts ever fail, I will upgrade them to the 60 pound versions. The trunk lid does stay where I put it, and it does not open all of the way when I hit the trunk release.
Wanted to post up some pics of mine, and show why I needed to go this route. I mounted my hardware a little differently than the original poster, and also painted the brackets and pivots so they wouldn't stand out so much.
Thanks again for the great write up!
Sorry about the crappy phone pics.
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Wanted to post up some pics of mine, and show why I needed to go this route. I mounted my hardware a little differently than the original poster, and also painted the brackets and pivots so they wouldn't stand out so much.
Thanks again for the great write up!
Sorry about the crappy phone pics.
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117 Posts
did mines too thks for the write up
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Just wanted to share a little more info here. Since I got mine done, I've decided to make a change.
I found that when I parked facing uphill on an incline, the springs weren't strong enough to hold the lid up. It is still much better than having no springs at all, which is what I did for the last few years, but it is still annoying. I've decided to purchase the 70lb springs, with hopes that they will hold the trunk lid at any normal angle I would park on.
As an FYI, the springs listed in the original post worked great on flat ground, or slight inclines. However, my driveway is fairly steep...
I found that when I parked facing uphill on an incline, the springs weren't strong enough to hold the lid up. It is still much better than having no springs at all, which is what I did for the last few years, but it is still annoying. I've decided to purchase the 70lb springs, with hopes that they will hold the trunk lid at any normal angle I would park on.
As an FYI, the springs listed in the original post worked great on flat ground, or slight inclines. However, my driveway is fairly steep...
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6,950 Posts
**** ya perfect timming for me to see this.
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531 Posts
Imma try to add this
I had to rent a car this week. [2013 Chevy Malibu]. The trunk has the shocks too but also has a large spring that adds some resistance to the shock so the trunk goes up nice and smooth. I'm thinking the benefit would be you could use a stiffer shock and not having to worry about it swinging the trunk open too fast or a strong wind blowing it down on your head. I will have to pull the panel so I can get a better view. I'll post a pic when I do.
I had to rent a car this week. [2013 Chevy Malibu]. The trunk has the shocks too but also has a large spring that adds some resistance to the shock so the trunk goes up nice and smooth. I'm thinking the benefit would be you could use a stiffer shock and not having to worry about it swinging the trunk open too fast or a strong wind blowing it down on your head. I will have to pull the panel so I can get a better view. I'll post a pic when I do.
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Everything was purchased from McMaster. The Part numbers are in the first post.
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Hey there, I just wanted to ask something. Will there be any harm done by removing the metal work that is just behind the rear seats that's shown in the pictures?
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I'm about to replace the cylinders on mine. I did this back in ~2009 or 2010 (McMaster Carr doesn't go back that far for order records). The cylinders in my car began leaking oil.
-Not really a big deal for me, as I have the 9C1 rubber mat in my trunk. Just a clean up issue right now.
I'm glad you made this follow-up to the thread as I was thinking the same thing after I did this install; that the pressure/force could be a little more than the original 50lb spec'd.
-Did the 70lb fix the problem?
The original P/N: 9416K382 no longer works (Only the 9416K is the same). I've got to research the thread and details to find the appropriate replacement, but primarily wanted to ask you whether or not the 70lb was a good replacement, or if you would go with an even greater pressured cylinder?
Thanks!
any chance anyone has the pics from the original post? they are there but so blurry they are not helpful. Thank you!
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If you tell me what you are particularly interested in, I can take pictures when I get home tonight. I did the original install, and then last summer installed new cylinders, but with a higher rating than the original post states. I hit the unlock button, and the trunk lid opens fully all by itself.
It's very nice, I'm glad I did this back about 10 years now....
Thanks for the fast reply!
I just want to see the mounts and how they are attached to the car and the air springs. i can figure out how to remove the stock spring brackets but a pic of where they used to be would be helpful.
Thank you!
I would love pics of them all! I have been asking about this too.
‘’thanks.
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Thanks!
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