I spent weeks fighting this in the Fleetwood and it turned out to be an intermittant open circuit in the trunk lid harness. The flopper switch at the motor was fine. Make certain the lid harness connector and the solenoid pins are in firm contact.
At least this is what worked for me and I had to completely rebuild the lid harness due to it being cut by the PO to disable the pull down. If you can find a lid harness in a JY it would be good to get it, the solenoid and the pull down switch.
Also check for corrosion on the motor tabs the pull down switch mates to.
i don't follow 100 percent, the switch like tail on the top of the trunk lid that has a cable running from it. I don't know how to look for a intermittant open circuit, though the harness is ion connection with it, when removed the trunk wont pop open.
The two wires to the trunk lid solenoid have something to do with the circuit completion for the pulldown switch to work.. At least that was the problem with the Caddy. I thought it was the switch on the pull down motor and it was not.
That said, take a meter and check the switch for power and continuity. I have some alligator clip jumper wires to check circuits. Easily mde after a visit to a Radio Shack or can often find them in ready made kits. Try your local Hobby Shop that caters to RC planes (petrol power) and cars for a host of things we can use on these cars.
Using a large paper clip, unfold one straight piece to insert into the pull down switch so you can connect the alligator clips. One wire is ground and two will be hot (+) One hot wire will power the pull down motor in one direct or the other (up or down). Connect the clips (if I remember correctly) to the two push on connector male pieces on the pull down motor. Look where you removed the switch. Hopefully you did not break off the alignment tab that slides into the receiver slot on the motor by the retainer screw. When you press the switch closed, as the trunk lid would when closing (not slammed like some would do, intent upon breaking everything!), the pull down will either extend or retract. This at least allows you to determine if the motor is good/bad or the switch is good/bad.
Take your time. I found it very frustrating and easy to "forget" what I'd just done so writing it out may help.
Good luck. The parts are hard to find in a JY as most are damaged by dolts getting into or slaming the trunk with the card dead. eBay or perhaps Fred, our favorite forum parts seller can help.
The switch that actuates the pull down action, as mentioned above is tied to the lock release mechanism on the the lid itself. Easy way to check if it is working or not is disconnect the connector on the pull down motor itself, probe pin B with a meter preferably, check for ground when the switch on the back side of the trunk release actuator on the lid itself is closed or pushed up.
But if all that you have is a test light then, get something like a paper clip and put it in pin B connect the ground lead of the test light to this, then probe the prick of the test light into pin A. On the backside of the trunk release actuator on the lid itself there is a switch, push up on it, does the light, light. if not it is a bad switch or screwed up connection.
It could be te switch on the pull down motor itself. See attached drawing, I think that I have an extra motor, just let me know what you find out.
a and b are both on the harness for the switch on top? theres 2 a and 2 bs 2 on the switch and 2 on the harness from the chasis electricals.
Your saying to put a lead into B from the chasis to A on the switch device on top?
i can move the motor up and down by using the orange lead and the black ground.
- with everything connected and the motor in the up position i.e. trunk lid open push the lever switch on the back of the trunk release latch assembly. Does the motor move? Does it move if you wiggle the switch?
- if not, pull connector off the switch at the latch assembly and jumper the pins together, does the motor move? It should. If it doesn't check for ground at pin B the black wire at this switch, do you have ground? you can suspect bad switch or the wire going to the motor itself to pin B
-leave jumper in connector at the trunk lock switch as noted above, disconnect electrical connector on the MOTOR, check for ground at pin B, is it present? if not suspect faulty wiring.
If you have gotten to this step and the wiring checks out and the switch operates then it is the motor switch that is on the top of the motor, looks like a black flapper. this is the switch that reverses the polarity on the motor to make it move in the opposite direction when you release the trunk lid.
Hope this helps.
This may help operation description from the FSM
Battery voltage is applied at all times to the Striker Motor within the Rear Compartment Lid Pull-Down Actuator. The polarity to the Striker Motor is determined by the position of the Striker Switches. In position "1," ground will be available through the Rear Compartment Lid Pull-Down Switch whenever the Deck Lid is shut. With the Rear Compartment Lid Pull-Down Switch closed. the Striker Motor retracts the Striker Unit until the Striker Switches are moved to position "2." In position "2," ground will be available through the Rear Compartment Limit Switch once the Rear Compartment Lid is opened. When the Rear Compartment Lid is opened, the Striker Motor extends the Striker Unit until the Striker Switches are moved to Position "1."
I wouldn't worry about the 6 volts on that wire you are reading the voltage potential through the motor windings. Did you do the steps that I listed above? I am not fully understanding why you would connect D on the motor plug to B, that doesn't make any sense to me at all.
in the list of these steps tell me what you did next to them by copying and pasting them and writing after them
1. Close the switch on the trunk lid the little lever type switch on the latch, jiggle it even, what does it do
2. Disconnect the switch as stated in item 1 and jumper the pins together, what happens?
3. Check for good ground on same connector pin B, was it good?
4. Ohm the wire in pin A to pin B of the motor connector, this would be ohms scale on the meter, what does it read?
5. on the motor, jiggle the switch flapper on the motor assembly, did it do anything, i.e. making it move?
I don't know man, short of going out and making a video trying to dscribe the best that I can to troubleshoot this, I don't know what else to do. Follow the troubleshooting steps that is listed in the FSM which I posted above.
They are from all data but it is directly out of the FSM, I double checked no worries man just trying to help and I was thinking that you were getting more and more confused on what I was trying to tell you do do.
I don't have my 94 FSM in front of me right now, but the 95 I have in my office it starts on page 8A-135-0 with in the electrical diagrams it contains the troubleshooting steps. Not sure if the page numbers will line up in between years or not, but I maybe close.