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Just wondering if anyone if anyone has had he same problem as me before. My car started to over heat so I pulled the inspection cover on the water pump and discovered the impeller free wheels on the drive shaft. Is it normal? Is there a fix to this?
 

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I don't recall ever seeing a post in here of somebody "repairing" a water pump. It's always been a choice of remove/replace a mechanical pump or convert to electric pump.
 

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Just wondering if anyone if anyone has had he same problem as me before. My car started to over heat so I pulled the inspection cover on the water pump and discovered the impeller free wheels on the drive shaft. Is it normal? Is there a fix to this?
The impeller should not "free wheel" as you noticed as it needs to spin with the engine in order to flow coolant. In case you are not familiar with the mechanical setup, you have a Cam Driven splined drive that comes thru the timing cover, connects to a Splined coupler which in turn connects to the backside of the Water Pump which has a splined drive.

If the impeller is just spinning, its time to pull the pump and inspect the WP drive and coupler for dmage. My gut tells me its just the WP Impeller that sheared off or broke. Verify that the coupler is ok, and while you have the pump off, start the car for a few seconds and verify that the drive gear coming thru the cover is spinning with the engine. It's ok to start and run the engine for a minute to verify this.

If all looks good with the timing drive gear and the coupler, its just the WP that broke. Most likely the impeler connection just rotted away inside. Consider which direction you want to go with Mechanical or Electric WP and replace. If its just the pump that broke, then a good quality Mechanical (AC Delco) would be your easiest and least expensive route.

It's also a good time to drain and Flush the Block, Heater Core and the rest of the cooling system while the system is down for repairs and think about new front seals too while you're there. Also consider replacing the T-Stat along with the Plastic T-Fitting and Flow Restrictor if they have a lot of miles/years on them or you're just not sure. They are cheap and easy to replace and the plastic parts usually fail at the worst time.
 

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Just wondering if anyone if anyone has had he same problem as me before. My car started to over heat so I pulled the inspection cover on the water pump and discovered the impeller free wheels on the drive shaft. Is it normal? Is there a fix to this?
last year my water pump bearing blew out . this caused the impeller to not be supported .could be this is what occurred to you . had no problems with it , it blew in an instant.

the impeller should not move / rotate with the engine off. it should be secure and not wobble..
 

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Way back in 2006 or so I also had overheating issues, and I removed the inspection cover to discover the impeller was not moving.

Root cause diagnostics led me to looking at the internal splines in the coupler which connects the gear driven driveshaft to the waterpump drive shaft.

One side of the coupler's internal splines were worn off. I got a new one from the dealership, and haven't had a problem since.
 

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does the impeller spin on the shaft or the shaft spins with it?

The impeller is pressed on the shaft, it can come loose. I welded the impeller to the shaft on mine.
 
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