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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
If anyone's interested, here's a video showing replacing the water pump on my 96.
THIS VIDEO IS NOT PROPER PROCEDURE, just something to generate discussion and corrections so next time myself and other novices will do it right -

(copy and paste this link to see it on youtube, bigger)
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T8XscndbK18>

 

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If anyone's interested, here's a video showing replacing the water pump on my 96.
I know it's kind of basic stuff, but anyway -

<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T8XscndbK18>

Now I want to see your video of the oil leak since you didn't replace the water pump drive seal [clearly leaking previously] :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Now I want to see your video of the oil leak since you didn't replace the water pump drive seal [clearly leaking previously] :)
Yeah I gave up after 1 trip to the Oreilley's and couldn't find the right o-rings, just put it back together. I'm definitely not a master mechanic - didn't see the previous leakage. Where will it leak now?
 

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The water pump o-rings are one thing [and should be replaced upon installing a new pump] but the water pump drive seal is another. It's the upper most & smallest of the 3 seals on the timing cover ~ where the cam drive sticks out to drive the water pump.

If not replaced, it will leak and surely seems to have been leaking already judging by the gunk around it. It will cause an oil leak that appears to be a leaking front main seal with oil leaking onto and down behind the opti. The opti needs to be pulled to replace it and when the opti is out, the opti drive seal should also be replaced. Fel Pro sells a kit with all necessary gaskets & seals for the water pump replacement [and some extra's] for under $20. The o-rings for the water pump are included but not for the opti. I got 2 from NAPA for under $2.

A good video [finally, one without awful music] but certainly not thorough for proper procedure in doing the job correctly.

I was being funny [or attemoting to be] with my comment about the request for your oil leak video :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The water pump o-rings are one thing [and should be replaced upon installing a new pump] but the water pump drive seal is another. It's the upper most & smallest of the 3 seals on the timing cover ~ where the cam drive sticks out to drive the water pump.

If not replaced, it will leak and surely seems to have been leaking already judging by the gunk around it. It will cause an oil leak that appears to be a leaking front main seal with oil leaking onto and down behind the opti. The opti needs to be pulled to replace it and when the opti is out, the opti drive seal should also be replaced. Fel Pro sells a kit with all necessary gaskets & seals for the water pump replacement [and some extra's] for under $20. The o-rings for the water pump are included but not for the opti. I got 2 from NAPA for under $2.

A good video [finally, one without awful music] but certainly not thorough for proper procedure in doing the job correctly.

I was being funny [or attemoting to be] with my comment about the request for your oil leak video :)
cwm1 I could go film the garage floor and the Exxon Valdez spill that lives under the car and keeps spilling over the catch pan cwm1

It has indeed been leaking and to my limited knowledge it did seem to be a front main seal - thanks for the pointer, I'll take another look, and check out the Fel-pro and NAPA stuff.

Agreed, video is not proper procedure. I had hoped it would draw some experienced advice and it looks like it did! :)
 

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...might want to search and find out how to install the wp drive seal "correctly"...

even with the real tool (or marker pen cap tool) care must be taken or a leak will occur.

the wp drive seal and opti seal install "dry"...meaning don't grease them
 

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dont forget to mention in the next vid(if you do so) about bleeding the system once putting coolant back in, thats very important
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
dont forget to mention in the next vid(if you do so) about bleeding the system once putting coolant back in, thats very important
I was bleeding and bleeding for a week, kept overheating, till I figured out I had jammed the radiator hose going to the thermostat too far up on the housing and that little nub was pushing the hose away from the housing, letting air in there. FRUSTRATING!

Might get one of the bleeder valves at http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=229596&highlight=bleeder and take a little video of putting it on.
 

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Great video, editing, and camera wok.

I'd edit out from 5:25-5:45. Who reinstalls the AIR pump?:D
 

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I was bleeding and bleeding for a week, kept overheating, till I figured out I had jammed the radiator hose going to the thermostat too far up on the housing and that little nub was pushing the hose away from the housing, letting air in there. FRUSTRATING!

Might get one of the bleeder valves at http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=229596&highlight=bleeder and take a little video of putting it on.
yep that thing does wonders, i made sure to buy a few from him when i redid my top end. Instead of hot steam burning my hand from wrenching or soaking the hoodliner,(i've lost an opti this way) went through the hose attached to the bleeder valve and straight to the ground, why GM didnt design that from the get go puzzles me

also i dont know about anyone else, but from :28 to 1:08 i usually leave the hoses on the waterpump disconnect them from the radiator, then take out the lower right bolt out of the water pump to drain whats left in it,it goes straight to a water jacket


thanks goldie for this pic and info

I usually lean on the front of the car to get most of the coolant out, so what happened at 1:08 doesnt happen, i try to prevent as much splash as i possibly can

Great video, editing, and camera wok.

I'd edit out from 5:25-5:45. Who reinstalls the AIR pump?:D
exactly!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Great video, editing, and camera wok.

I'd edit out from 5:25-5:45. Who reinstalls the AIR pump?:D
LOL I found out about that later, after did video.

Man you guys are a gold mine of great info - I wish I'd known about this forum when I got the Imp 3 years ago!

--making a list for "Fixing 96 Impala Water Pump Install" :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i usually leave the hoses on the waterpump disconnect them from the radiator, then take out the lower right bolt out of the water pump to drain whats left in it,it goes straight to a water jacket

I usually lean on the front of the car to get most of the coolant out, so what happened at 1:08 doesnt happen, i try to prevent as much splash as i possibly can
I'll give that a try next time, for sure.

I keep seeing horror stories on the forums about opti getting wet and dying, etc, but I've dumped antifreeze all over mine, gave it repeated soakings while bleeding with that damn screw, and it keeps going... although obviously it's better to keep it dry.
 

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yep, i wasnt so lucky, i get nerveous when i remove the wp and whats left in the block spills lol
 

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cwm1 I could go film the garage floor and the Exxon Valdez spill that lives under the car and keeps spilling over the catch pan cwm1

It has indeed been leaking and to my limited knowledge it did seem to be a front main seal - thanks for the pointer, I'll take another look, and check out the Fel-pro and NAPA stuff.
Hey man, If you need some help with installing the seals, let me know. I see you're in Roseville (I live in Warren at the Roseville border) I've installed many of the seals and have the proper tool to do it. Just pick up Felpro timing cover gasket set TCS 45956. It will have all the gaskets you need. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hey man, If you need some help with installing the seals, let me know. I see you're in Roseville (I live in Warren at the Roseville border) I've installed many of the seals and have the proper tool to do it. Just pick up Felpro timing cover gasket set TCS 45956. It will have all the gaskets you need. :)
thanks goldmaster i might take u up on that - didn't even know there was a tool for installing seals. or is it the seal puller tool, and you just use it for install also - i have one of those.
i was thinking about doing air pump delete at same time as timing cover seal - would you be down for that?
I'm booked up next 2 weeks and weekends so would have to be after that sometime.
BTW I did that video about a month ago and now oil leak is much worse even to the point of smelling unburnt oil driving around. cwm8 (that's my imp puking oil since i don't see a "banging head against wall" little guy)
 

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thanks goldmaster i might take u up on that - didn't even know there was a tool for installing seals. or is it the seal puller tool, and you just use it for install also - i have one of those.
No the seal install tool is different than the seal puller. Take goldmaster up on his offer and vid the seal R & R -- you will be doing yourself and the rest of us a great service.
Thanks.
 

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thanks goldmaster i might take u up on that - didn't even know there was a tool for installing seals. or is it the seal puller tool, and you just use it for install also - i have one of those.
i was thinking about doing air pump delete at same time as timing cover seal - would you be down for that?
I'm booked up next 2 weeks and weekends so would have to be after that sometime.
No problem, just let me know when you're ready. I'm usually free evenings/weekends most of the time. I'd be glad to help. :) The water pump drive seal requires a special tool to install properly. If you don't do it right, it's guaranteed to leak. Learned that the hard way the first time I ever did it. Air pump delete is easy, just be aware that since you have a 96 with OBD II, you're going to get a check engine light if you remove it. You'll need to have it programmed out of the PCM to get rid of the light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
No problem, just let me know when you're ready. I'm usually free evenings/weekends most of the time. I'd be glad to help. :) The water pump drive seal requires a special tool to install properly. If you don't do it right, it's guaranteed to leak. Learned that the hard way the first time I ever did it. Air pump delete is easy, just be aware that since you have a 96 with OBD II, you're going to get a check engine light if you remove it. You'll need to have it programmed out of the PCM to get rid of the light.
Sweet! glad you're available to help out here. :)
If you're allright with doing the video with it you should know it'll take like twice as long as just doing procedure (setting up camera for different angles, lights, etc) so a weekend might be the way to go.
re: check engine light - it's always on anyway, code said it was MAF and I don't have the $ for new one right now. Spraying with that MAF cleaner stuff didn't do the trick.:(
How about the weekend of 9/4-9/5 if you're not up north or anything for labor day?
 

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Sweet! glad you're available to help out here. :)
If you're allright with doing the video with it you should know it'll take like twice as long as just doing procedure (setting up camera for different angles, lights, etc) so a weekend might be the way to go.
re: check engine light - it's always on anyway, code said it was MAF and I don't have the $ for new one right now. Spraying with that MAF cleaner stuff didn't do the trick.:(
How about the weekend of 9/4-9/5 if you're not up north or anything for labor day?
I'd be alright with making a video of it. It's not a difficult job to do once you know how it's done, but it can be hard to put the instructions into writing so people understand the process. A video would be a great help to many people here. Unfortunately, Labor Day weekend is no good for me. I am going to Cedar Point with some friends that weekend, but I will be on vacation the whole week (will be coming back on Labor Day). So the following weekend would work (or any day during labor day week except Monday)

As far as your MAF code, I have another MAF I can bring by so you can try it out if you want. Also make sure its facing the right way and that the wiring/connector is in good shape. The wiring gets brittle and can have small breaks that are hard to see.
 
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