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IMHO if doing a EWP get the Meziere. They are regarded as the better one. Yes you do get what you pay for (there is a reason CSR is cheaper). There is no grinding involved in installing it. You do need to use your stock WP housing, so the impeller and guts need to be removed which is explained in the instructions. Basically, a BFH to knock out the rear bearing and install the included freeze plug.

You re-use the large O ring after you remove the front cover of the stock WP. That O ring is available if yours is broken. part #GM 1012-8329

The Meziere only draws 6-7 amps (standard or HD version). It has nothing to do with stock wiring. You run a new + from the AUX battery post, - to a solid ground and use a "trigger" wire source (likely pink wire) for KOEO (on) function so the relay triggers the +12v from the AUX post connection. I mounted my relay/fuse on the firewall, PS, just behind the underhood fuse block

IIRC Gary @ Innovative Wiring makes a EWP harness for B body or you can roll your own by buying a relay/fuse and wire it up yourself. 10 gauge wire is fine

Given the EWP only draws about 6-7 amps (link)


If you had issues blowing your fuel pump fuse using a 255 gph pump....you had/have wiring issues to pump which was very common. Typically, the plug to tank plug. I would re-visit your wiring for that. No need for the Racetronix kit (asshat award winner), just fix the stock stuff

No offense to 1Slow...but the Meziere is a better product, period.
 

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"Better" is subjective. Do they last longer? Not from my experience... If you need it's increased flow ,so be it. Kinda like fuel pumps that deliver 2-3x the fuel than motor can possibly use. Problem is they consume more amperage (usually significantly more) all the time. All the increased amperage from overkill electric accessories adds up , takes current from charging system ,harder on alternators ,etc.
 

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Interesting. As for the fp wiring I know the voltage and ground numbers under load are good, at least at the connector beneath the gas cap. But I'm pretty sure I didn't test the wires at the connector to the new ACDelco bulkhead sending unit I installed with the new fp (DOH!!) I guess I assumed those were good too because no visual melted/discoloration trouble spots were noted. In any case, the new coil and opti seem to have remedied the issue.

I have Gary's battery cables installed, but I didn't know he offers the ewp harness as well. I'll definitely be looking into that as well. Thanks for your retort regarding Miziere wp and its advantages compared to the CSR. It's all becoming a little less murky for me now.

I used search option and found this great write-up for wiring connections on a ewp. You will probably recognize it.


BTW, I too am in CA and have removed all the Air Pump apparatus from the engine. I have "the sticker" and have not had any issues with passing smog. I guess I was lucky, but I think a lot of it just depends on who you take it too. I always give my guy a tip for the pass and any other work he does on my car.
 

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Hey 1Slow....do what you want on your car. If CSR for you works, great. I used to drag race several of my cars for decades so was familiar with EWP's in that environment. Meziere hands down over any other brand so that's why I went with one on the Impala, just my experience.

My Meziere has been on for 22 years & 90+k mi...and yes no WP drive seal leak since EWP install...and no grinding of WP housing if that's what is needed with the CSR

IMHO solid wiring to an EWP is essential for long life. The air pump circuit IS NOT one to use, 16 gauge wire for sustained 6-7 amp no way.

get this, plug & play for Meziere


My motor makes over 400 hp so the 255 gph was advised by my tuner, Ed Wright, many years ago. The HD version of the EWP just flows more and when tune is set up to use 160 stat, IMHO better to go with the HD version. Stock Lt1 will be fine with a standard 118 EWP and fuel pump
 

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Gary's wiring harness looks solid and simple to install. I think I'll go with the Meziere for the sake of simplicity. You say you have 90k on yours and that's pretty good testimony for reliability and w/o the leakage!
 

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If you have not yet installed one, get a "speed bleeder" that replaces the bleed screw on the T stat housing. IDK where they are available now as I got mine around 20 years ago from a guy in Canada ($20??). It has a hose fitting, so you just run a clear tube to the reservoir when bleeding the system, close bleeder, remove hose, put cap back on. Done. It is a completely drip free (read no opti bath) for coolant system bleeding

yeah its been since 1999 when I did my Meziere swap. Just after 3 year/36k mi warranty ended...and eight dealer installed WP's & Optis replaced under warranty I switched to EWP. Still have the NIB AC Delco mechanical WP the dealership gave me when I returned the then, 8th, 500 mi leaking WP. Its been my rear garage door stop ever since. Meziere EWP has been on since. I have 145k mi on the car so it actually has 109k mi on the EWP. I never thought it would last that long as it has far outlived any mechanical WP on any car I have owned. The spare has been in the trunk now for 16 years. At some point I will need it and it will take maybe 10 min to replace it and bleed he system...even if I have to do it on the side of the road...wearing a tuxedo to my daughter's wedding
 

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What??!! 8 water pumps and opti's in the first 36k?😲 I'm surprised you didn't give the car back to the dealer. Why so many in that short time span? Mine were the originals until a couple weeks ago at 135k. I actually replaced the wp a couple months ago when it started showing minor drips of leakage. I think I caught it in time before it destroyed the opti. The shop mechanic replaced the opti because the car wasn't starting. That didn't enable it to start so then he proceeded to replace the coil. I still don't know if it was just the 2 year old MSD coil that was bad or a combination of the opti AND coil gone bad. It's starts now like I gem, but now I will continue to watch the wp for leaks as having removed it to get to the opti may have disturbed the drive seal enough to begin leaking. Am I correct to have that on the "watch list" now? I read here on the forum that every time the wp is removed the drive seal should be replaced. I don't remember now if I replaced the drive seal when I replaced the wp. I wish I knew then what I know now about GM's mechanical LT1 water pumps! About the Freeze Bleeder - yes, I did install one many years ago and will come in handy again soon enough. Thanks for the reminder to use it. It's a great little device that brilliant gentleman created and shared with us all. And 10 minutes to change out the pump? It took me several hours. I just got an email from Gary at IW and he said he'd make an ewp harness for me. YES!!
 

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Yeah it was 8 WP's that leaked so the dealership also replaced the Optis also back then. They sponsored our Impala club so were very generous in repairs. You could bring them your heads & cam and they would install them. They installed my 1:6 RR back then and also did 3:42 gear swap.

It was not until the last swap, and yeah I had grown very tired of taking the car in sometimes within 500 mi of the last swap, that I myself found the real cause of the problem albeit most of the WP's did show signs of weep hole leaks. The problem was at one point in the repairs someone put the blue/white check valve on opti vent harness on backwards thus defeating its ability to vent the Opti. The service mgr always showed me the failed Opti was just full of greenish crud which was assumed to be coolant. It was actually condensation & oxidation that built up killing Optis, not WP's for the majority of the times but they were also replaced

Still I did not want to continue using mechanical WP's so I went EWP at 36,500 mi. Same AC Delco Opti is still on the car but now with a MSD C&R (older one, not the POS sold now)

Keep an eye on the WP drive seal if it was not changed. Its a 50/50 shot it can leak after WP install,,,especially if any force was needed removing the spline coupler from WP drive seal. Typically you see a drop of oil at the bottom of timing cover, especially on the crank sensor on 96. Its more important to replace the WP drive spline O rings as worn ones are a root cause of the seal leak as the coupler then becomes lose and vibrates killing the seal

Yes I can change a "EWP" in 10 minutes, not mechanical
 

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That's good info to watch for oil at the crank shaft sensor. I'll do that along with underneath the ACDelco mwp with a mirror for coolant seapage. I just ordered the Meziere 118 ewp for $269 at Jeg's. They're having a sale. Also the wire harness from Gary. I want this wp and opti issue done and gone.
 

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I do not recommend changing any of these seals that are not leaking ,especially crank seal.
 
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