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having had one on the car for 8-9 years now:

pros:

won't leak on opti
consistant cooling at any rpm
15 min replacement if it goes bad
10 hp gain (ymnv )

cons

more $ than "stock" replacement

others may chime in...suggest you note only those who actually have one.
 

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I see most people who go Electric usually keep a spare pump in their trunk. Is it that much of an issue that you really need to?
 

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It is on the chance that the one you have on the car goes lol
 

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It is on the chance that the one you have on the car goes lol
Makes you think it aint worth the 10hp. Picture coming back from the party and your waterpump goes bad. Might pop a head gasket or spin a bearing. What do you feel is better mechanical or electric reliability and hp speaking?
 

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Makes you think it aint worth the 10hp. Picture coming back from the party and your waterpump goes bad. Might pop a head gasket or spin a bearing. What do you feel is better mechanical or electric reliability and hp speaking?
Well if it did go, electric or not, I would pull over to the side of the road and use my celly to have someone scoop me up.

I dont want to take a chance wreckin my horses.

Now if I'm out of town or state, maybe a different story.

This is not my DD, and I would go out of town for shows, but nothin too far.

Anybody have pics.
 

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I see most people who go Electric usually keep a spare pump in their trunk. Is it that much of an issue that you really need to?
Have had a "spare" EWP in the trunk for years...along with serp belt, qt oil, tools, etc. mainly because buying one at a "local" auto parts store won't happen. With that said I have never needed it in the 9 years I have had the EWP. If it ever went out I would have AAA get me home. If I was out of state or in a place where towing would be a bigger problem....swaping in the new one would only take minutes. I also have the "quick bleed" nipple on thermostat and a small tube to feed into colant tank so bleeding the cooling system is simple.

Gaining any HP was not even a consideration for me...a benefit yes. Having many OEM WP's fail and kill as many Opti's while my car was still under warrenty was what pushed me to EWP. Not one WP or water on Opti issue since.
 

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i've had a meizzie HD pump in my impy for a few years now, never went bad but i did replace it with a new one when i realized that it had gotten allot louder then it used to be, however the temps never went up(even making the noise). i got a new one and swaped it out in bout 5 mins. i've been meanin to send it back to meizzier to have it rebuilt but neva got around to it yet(plan on keepin it in trunk as a spare). i also have and reccomend garys hd EWP wireing kit, real nice kit and def worth the money...
 

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I am considering putting an EWP on my 96 when the times comes for a new one. Which EWP has proven to be the best for ours cars? Additionally, how labor intensive is it?
 

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I bought a Meziere HD and the harness and I love it. I am pretty retarded when it comes to wiring but Garys harness and instructions made it ridiculously easy.


ZACH
 

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I've had two or three Meziere pumps replaced within a 12 year span and I have to say that from what I've experienced their products have improved from the first pump I bought. Call it a bad pump or two but Meziere themselves said a few years ago that they have perfected the pump for much longer life through the use of longer lasting parts. Think I've had the newer one in for close to three years with no problems. HP was never a consideration on the buy, just wanted to save the opti.
 

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Wellllllllllllllllllllllllllllll.............for the record, I have had the same ole water pump on my car since I got it back in 2002. No issues at all. So call me the lucky one. WHATEVER DUDE! :)
 

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They free up power by moving LESS water. If you use datamaster to watch water temps you will see higher temps at 75mph than at 30mph. Not too high but high enough to verify that it moves LESS water than stock mechanical.

They are also more likely to suddenly completely stop than a mechanical.

IMO the ONLY reason to use one is for that last .1 at the dragstrip.

Since early 2000 the only cars I have owned have been 94-6 b-bodies, having put over 200k miles on my cars for daily driving and fun I know my way around the platform. Not one of those guys with a slow garage queen. Just this fall I put 650miles on the "racecar" in two days without leaving the state.

You need to consider the experiance level and success of those giving you "information", and ignore the guys with the slow garage queens. If they knew what they were doing they would not have slow modified cars and if the actually DROVE their cars they might have a clue what the long term implications are of certain modifications.

In my experiance the parts store remanufactured pumps work just fine. I have had the opti get coolant baths a few times BUT they always worked fine . ANY distributor will act up if it gets wet internally, people just BLINDLY hate the opti so much they ignore that fact and replace distrinutors that needed nothing but to dry out. If you are competent you will assemble it so that even if the WP pukes the opti will stay dry internally.
 

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They free up power by moving LESS water. If you use datamaster to watch water temps you will see higher temps at 75mph than at 30mph. Not too high but high enough to verify that it moves LESS water than stock mechanical.

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Really???

When I log data my temps stay the same at idle, 30 mph, 75, mph or WOT. If anything they get slightly cooler at "FWY" speeds which I would account for air over the radiator vs increased/decreased cooling by WP.The OP asked a ? for advantages/disadvantages on EWP vs. Mechanical. Having put 69,000 miles on mine my experience is positive.

The EWP is run by 12vdc, not turned by a mechanical gear turned by the engine itself. That is why there is potential "HP" gains. Any engine accessory that is not physically turned by the motor itself will free up horse power. Just like dropping the accessory belt typically shows .1-.2 gain in ET.

Dwayne, I have read your arguments before on EWP vs mechanical flow and frankly don't agree but you are certainly entitled to your opinion as I and other are to theirs. Not argueing one flows more than the other, simply that the EWP has been substancially less problematic for me than the mechanical type.
 

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In MY experience, the auto parts store rebuilds, as well as NOS WPs, do not "work just fine." They are not reliable or economical. I had three or four in a row either leak out of the box or go bad very quickly. I have been running a Meziere HD for years, including several years when the Impala was my daily driver. Estimating conservatively, because I can't recall the exact mileage when I did the swap, I have well over 50,000 miles with the Meziere. I have no complaints whatsoever. The car runs cooler in stop and go traffic, and I have not noticed that it runs any hotter at speed. It did develop a slow leak a year or so ago. I swapped in the spare I have been keeping for years (which took about ten minutes) and had Meziere rebuild the leaking one, which is now my spare. Meziere's customer service was exceptional, BTW. If it were me, and I needed a new WP I would go electric. The only reason not to, as far as I'm concerned, is if you can't afford it.
 

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They free up power by moving LESS water. If you use datamaster to watch water temps you will see higher temps at 75mph than at 30mph. Not too high but high enough to verify that it moves LESS water than stock mechanical.
I noticed that coolant temperature got slightly cooler at highway speeds with an electric waterpump even with steep gears. At full throttle it may be a different story. It's the rpms, not the mph, that affect the flow. The behavior you are describing can happen if the car does not have the lower air dam.

The only problem with an electric waterpump in my opinion that it can suddenly fail. However, it does not seem to be the case with proper wiring. The waterpump will become louder, then it starts to blow fuses once in a while. And that was a cheap CSI pump after 4 years of driving. Meizere HD had never exhibited such behavior. I have seen impeller failures in mechanical waterpumps as well. A cheap autometer head coolant sensor connected to a bright bulb is a good preventative measure.
 

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They free up power by moving LESS water. If you use datamaster to watch water temps you will see higher temps at 75mph than at 30mph. Not too high but high enough to verify that it moves LESS water than stock mechanical.
All electric water pumps flow significantly more than the stock mechanical water pump AT IDLE. (The Meziere 118HD flows more than all the other electrical choices.)

The more aggressive the gearing [and the shorter the tire size] the sooner the stock mechanical water pump will turn enough RpMs to match, and then outflow, a given electric water pump.

This would explain why more than a few F-body owners - who have much shorter tires than we do, and are much more likely to use 4.10s than us - complain of higher cruising coolant temps, while not having yet read a single complaint about this symptom at the ISSF.

My car is cursed with the 'CAFE special' 2.56, and I'll never run tires shorter than 27.95" tall ... but even when I refused to use 4th - 3rd is ever so slightly deeper than 3.73 * 4th - and cruised at up to 80 MpH for leagues at a time, I NEVER once noticed higher cruising temps on my admittedly primitive Auto XRay.

If B-body cooling systems also flow better than F-body cooling systems, then their data and experience doesn't directly apply to us.
They are also more likely to suddenly completely stop than a mechanical.
Though this is true, they started whining, and eventually squealing, before they failed, at least in my case.
IMO the ONLY reason to use one is for that last .1 at the dragstrip.
The closest my wagon has ever been to a dragstrip, is Francis Lewis Boulevard, and I'll never dare do more than 48MpH on it for fear of being accused of drag racing there (too many cars have been impounded there on the accusation alone).

I continue using the Meziere 118 HD because in Long Island, Queens, Brooklyn, Manhattan, and NJ, where I tend to drive, my car tends to run COOLER than it would with a mechanical pump. Plus, I can change it myself, since I always carry the spare in the glove.
 

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96capriceMGR said:
Since early 2000 the only cars I have owned have been 94-6 b-bodies, having put over 200k miles on my cars for daily driving and fun I know my way around the platform. Not one of those guys with a slow garage queen. Just this fall I put 650miles on the "racecar" in two days without leaving the state.

You need to consider the experience level and success of those giving you "information", and ignore the guys with the slow garage queens. If they knew what they were doing they would not have slow modified cars and if the actually DROVE their cars they might have a clue what the long term implications are of certain modifications.
My car is garaged, slow, and it's no queen. I've been abusing it since 2003, for the past 95,000. (If you saw it, you'd wonder why it runs so much better than it looks.)

Around Jan 2004, the mech water pump 'failed' because the splines on the cam and the 'sleeve' smoothed each other out. It would've cost much more to make the mechanical water pump work at that particular point, than an electrical one. I selected the Meziere 118 HD for its superior flow rating over the other electrical options, and because it takes less work to install than a CSR.

I'm now running my 3rd one, which I changed myself in less than 30 mins. I would've done it faster, but I had to explain myself to the cop who was wondering what I was doing.
My previous vehicles were a 94 9C1, a 95 9C1, and a Cadillac Fleetwood, all LT1s. If I'd known sooner about the Meziere 118 HD, they'd have worn them too.
In my experience the parts store remanufactured pumps work just fine. I have had the opti get coolant baths a few times BUT they always worked fine. ANY distributor will act up if it gets wet internally, people just BLINDLY hate the opti so much they ignore that fact and replace distributors that needed nothing but to dry out. If you are competent you will assemble it so that even if the WP pukes the opti will stay dry internally.
I don't necessarily disagree with this statement, but the Opti-Spark didn't take any antifreeze baths either - when you change an electrical pump, it will only get on the Opti if the car is pointed uphill.

An electric water pump is NOT the end-all be-all uber-mod, but if, for some strange reason, I owned a taxi fleet of Caprices, they'd all be wearing Meziere 118 HDs.

I'll gladly stipulate that the mechanical water pump will cool better than the electrical water pumps at a certain given cruising speed. My questions are:

What is that cruising speed / engine RpM?
Which pump are you running - electrical or mechanical?
How tall are your tires?
What gears are you running back there?
Is it an F-body, or a B/D-body?

I could even ask when your torque converter stalls, and what, if any, other mods have been done to the cooling system, but I suppose that would be asking for too much data?
Myself said:
Before the GDL'09, someone on this forum was trying to correct misinformation regarding electrical vs mechanical water pumps. I forget who ...
 
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