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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My shaft seal is leaking on my water pump. I have found some threads about how to replace it and may tackle it myself on a 95 wagon with ~140k miles on it.
I think someone told me it looked like the pump had been replaced. My pump has on occasion had a drop of coolant by the telltale. Do you think think this drip could have been from the shaft seal, or is my water pump on the way out as well?
While I'm in there, should I be doing the opti as well, or is there a way to tell if it is original?
Anything else I should think of doing? This is sounding expensive already. cwm6
 

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Always replace the WP and Opti seals in the timing cover any time you service either. If your Opti isn't giving you any trouble, just replace the cap and rotor with a quality replacement (I like MSD's). Also check the Opti vent harness and make sure it's working properly.
 

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Check the water pump weep hole. You can see it easily if you get under the car or stick a mirror under the water pump. If it wet, it needs a pump. Water pump replacement is easy! Dont fear it. All the hoses off the Water pump can also leak too. Check the coolant tank hoses too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies.
My weep hole has been wet, but only about 3 times over the last 6+ months.
The car dumped a whack of coolant on the garage floor recently. I got it up to temperature and it was dripping from one of the spark plug wires. I climbed underneath and there is a pretty good leak that appears to be coming from the shaft side on the back of the pump.
 

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Get it fixed or you might be PMing me about a opti sensor. But i dont mind :D
 

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Thanks for the replies.
My weep hole has been wet, but only about 3 times over the last 6+ months.
The car dumped a whack of coolant on the garage floor recently. I got it up to temperature and it was dripping from one of the spark plug wires. I climbed underneath and there is a pretty good leak that appears to be coming from the shaft side on the back of the pump.
Maybe.. I had a similar leak on my cars years ago, It would leak a little, Stop... It went on for months and then it let go and lost gallons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Get it fixed or you might be PMing me about a opti sensor. But i dont mind :D
Thanks - I stopped driving it until I can fix it for that reason.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, I am in a panic trying to find the water pump seal replacement tool. I can't find it anywhere around here.
I have a dumb question, the coolant appeared to be pouring out of the block from the shaft seal, is there coolant there or is it coming from the back of the pump?
I can find everything I need tomorrow, except the tool is at least a week away. If I don't have to do the block shaft seal to get it back in the road, I will probably leave it and get the tool for a later date.
 

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Use a sharpie cap, or the appropriate size socket. You don't really need a special tool, even if it may be helpful. Why half-ass the job, or leave it for yourself to do later? The coolant you saw is probably coming out of the back of the pump. There's no coolant in the timing cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Use a sharpie cap, or the appropriate size socket. You don't really need a special tool, even if it may be helpful. Why half-ass the job, or leave it for yourself to do later? The coolant you saw is probably coming out of the back of the pump. There's no coolant in the timing cover.
That helps a lot - thanks. I will do that and get the tool from Buffman for future use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Got as far as I can this weekend. I'm waiting for the E4 external torx bit to come in so I can remove the distributor cap.
I have another question. There are 2 Orings in the felpro kit, I read they are for the water pump. The water pump came with one on the back of it. Where does the one for the WP drive shaft go? I don't see a groove for an oring, does it just sit on the collar of the shaft closest to the block?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I watched those videos the other day (found them very helpful) but I couldn't find them today. :confused:
Any yup, that O-ring was there, it was just hard and squared off so it looked like part of the shaft.
Thanks Pumpmaster. cwm1
 

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Mini mag lite works if you happen to have one. I did get the tool from Buffman for future use though, the right tool makes any job easy. I like easy :D



 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for that - it's nice to see how you used it. I got the seal in with the cap of a large sharpie - it seemed to go ok.
I missed the detail of ordering O-rings for the distributor and was told they are discontinued, :( but they think they can bring some in from another dealership.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
That's what I would have guessed, but I thought I read a post they had to be of the correct material? If they don't get them in tomorrow, I will do that.
I'm glad you guys are so helpful throughout the process. Once I saw how much stuff I had to pull I was kind of wishing I had jobbed it out while cursing the forum for giving me too much confidence in my skills cwm1, but it's going fairly well with all the assistance. :)
 

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If you are used to seeing the blue o-rings on pics of new factory optis, they are simply black o-rings coated with some type of blue lubricant (I assume to make it easy to pop in place when installing). :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I found some O-rings that seem to fit well, but some of my cap bolts twisted off. I can get a GM opti for $230 without a cap and rotor (which I have already purchased).
I don't think I'm even going to try getting the broken bolts out of the base and go for the new opti - maybe I this will get me another 15 years.
I can't get the rotor out of my opti, I believe it is a T9 torx bit which is another special order tool. cwm3
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I phone the kid back at my dealership to confirm it is an AC Delco opti, but it is re-manufactured by Autoline. He claims the GM# is discontinued? :confused:
Is re-manufactured any good? I need this thing back on the road as it my daily driver.
 
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