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Discussion Starter #1
Getting ready to do this and flush the heater core on my bone stock 96 BBB with 138k on the odo. Here's my plan with some questions.
1) Drain by disconnecting the lower hose and then raising the front of the car to prevent any 'dribbling' of coolant after pulling the WP - got it.
2) I seem to remember recommendations that if you have the water pump out, might as well replace the small oil seal around the splined shaft that comes out of the front of the engine. I did this about 25k miles ago. Do I really need to do it again? What is the part number for the seal?
3) Bleeding the system? I've also heard that best results are achieved with the front of the car raised. True?
4) How much coolant do I need (assuming a 50/50 mix with distilled H2O)?
Thanks in advance.
 

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Don't mess with seal if it isn't leaking.
I'd strongly consider converting to electric pump,as this is the best time to do it.
No more risk of leaking coolant on the opti for starters.
 

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if your WP drive seal is not leaking than leave it. ESPECIALLY if you do not have the "tool" (purchased or home made) to install it. That seal can be purchased separate at Chevy dealer but is included in the FelPro front timing cover kit for about $12 sold at auto part stores

The debate on f the nose of the car needs to be raised is a back & forth. IMHO you just need to have the car on flat ground but can have the car "slightly" raised if you want

There is/was a "speed bleeder" one guy made several years ago I purchased that replaces the stock bleed screw on T stat housing. This allows you to run a clear tube into the reservoir to watch until a clear stream of coolant comes out. VERY simple and mess free. Otherwise you will need to stuff rags around T stat housing to prevent coolant from getting on Opti

There is one WP bolt, lower DS IIRC, that goes into water jacket so that bolt needs thread sealer on it

If your WP was leaking it is a VERY good idea to remove Opti and pull the cap and rotor and look inside for any oil or coolant (likely there) and clean it out. Use loc tite on the rotor screws and a skim coat of dialectic grease on Opti cap O ring

+1 on EWP but you want to stay mechanical. Just buy a good one (read not autozone)

I use the "waterpump" (grey) Permatex RTV on WP gaskets. Skim coat on both sides

2 gallons of coolant 50/50 (I gal of coolant 1 gal of distilled water) is a typical refill
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What manufacturers are considered to be good? AC Delco? Gates? Others?
I noticed that if you buy the AC Delco 'kit', which includes the thermostat, water neck housing, and sensor (?), the price is about double if you buy the pump housing all by itself.
 

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Hi, here's my thread when i did the WP, if ya wanna see a driveway swap deal....


have fun.
-ALF out....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Anyone have any experience with the O'Reilly brand - Murray WP? It's new (not re-man) and offers a limited lifetime warranty. Price is $116.
 

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No experience with O'Reilly/Murray pump, but I've had two re-man Advance Auto pumps in the last 10 years. No complaints, 35k+ road and super hard road course miles on each. Lifetime warranty ain't bad if they'll honor it. Once you've done the water pump once or twice, you can probably R&R one in an hour or two, start to finish, so it's not the end of the world if it starts to go bad. When they do start to die it's usually a slow, leaky death that gives you plenty of warning FWIW.
 

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OP,
The manual for my 1995 Fleetwood suggests 14 quarts of coolant. If you do not drain the engine block by removing the knock sensors, you will obviously need much less. I always have 2 gallons of concentrated antifreeze and two gallons of distilled water handy when I do any cooling system maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Need a quick response on this one since I'm about to install the new WP. Which way does the drive coupler go? One end of it has a notch around the circumference. Is the notch towards the engine or WP??????
 

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I would think the end that does not require that the 'notch' be shoved (forced) past the seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Do you bleed the system (using the bleed screw at the top of the water neck) with the engine running or with it off?
 

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Yes, both. But only after getting up to temp and never when cold. After bleeding be sure to leave system sealed until it gets stone cold. Contracting fluid will suck down the tank and you can easily fill back up full. I ALWAYS do multiple bleed/fill cycles.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
What purpose do the O-rings on the 1) WP splined drive shaft and 2) the splined shaft from the motor that drives the WP serve? There are no fluids in these locations. The coupling device between these two splined shafts covers these O-rings. Just scratching my head as to why they are there.
 

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Probably aid in alignment,any avoiding noise. Many use anti seize,or grease on splines.
 

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Ain't you got that thing together yet? lol

Well he beat me to it. But it appears I'm wrong from my earlier reply as it shows the grooved end goes to the block side.


1581534633693.png



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Don't forget there are two o-rings for the opti too. I think they are viton, not simple rubber.


1581535033135.png
 

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The O rings on WP drive spline and the WP spline "cushion" the coupler and keep it stabilized which preserves both the WP drive seal and the rear bearing seal of the WP
 

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I was poking around for parts and found the parts list for the Fel pro TCS 45956

Its a gasket set that contains:

2-407 O ring (water pump shaft)
1-14842 Timing Cover Seal
2-35072 Water Pump to Block
1-95579 Timing cover
1-95644 Distribuitor Drive shaft seal (big seal for opty opening)
1-95589 Water Pump Bearing Seal (The first seal from top to bottom)


The 407 O ring is also listed as a valve stem seal in a engine so it seems to be good for heat and oil resistance.


The Fel pro TCS 45956 and two 407 o rings(for the opti) seem like a good opti install kit.
 
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