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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)

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On a WP I use the "it's just a freekin' WP so anything'll do" approach. They take like nothing to change out, and even possible to change without losing much AF. With only one moving part, just make sure to get LT warranty.
 

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I wouldn't bother to rebuild it unless you're 100% sure it's the factory original part. They're cheap enough that it's not worth the cost in time and parts to rebuild a replacement pump yourself. The bearing is available - I remember buying one from a guy on eBay.
 

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Why get a real one when you can get another crappy offshore re-man from AutoZone.
 

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Original AC Delco WP are crap and unfortunately most other offshore ones are also. If the shaft seal was better they would last like most mechanical WP's.

When I do use mechanical WP's on other cars I have had better luck with NAPA ones (new not rebuilds)

With this said I went to a Mezeire EWP 22 years ago after my car went out of warranty and the same WP is still on with 95+K miles on it. It will take 5 min to replace when needed and can be rebuilt by Meziere for $100

OP, given your WP is weeping to the point you see it...your Opti is likely (read is) has coolant in it so take opti off and carefully clean the inside. Use dialectic grease on the large O rings of cap/body on reassembly
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The coolant isn't dripping, but more collecting around the weep hole.
I have another question, AZ has a WP for $57 with a 1 yr warranty, or one for $125 with a lifetime warranty. Which one? Assuming they are of similar quality.

I thought about an electric pump, but I heard they aren't the best for street cars. Or is that just nonsense?
 

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The coolant isn't dripping, but more collecting around the weep hole.
I have another question, AZ has a WP for $57 with a 1 yr warranty, or one for $125 with a lifetime warranty. Which one? Assuming they are of similar quality.

I thought about an electric pump, but I heard they aren't the best for street cars. Or is that just nonsense?
If you get a AZ pump, get a lifetime replacement warranty...you will need it several times

I also thought initially that a EWP was not for a street car but after 22 years and about 100k mi....it has lasted way longer than any mechanical AC Delco. I went through 8 under new car warranty. The last one started weeping in 500 mi so I went EWP and the dealership gave me a new AC Delco back then. That WP is still in its box and has worked flawlessly as my rear garage door stop for 22 years. Once you take one apart and see the bearing shaft seal you then know if AC Delco spent $.03 on a better seal vs $.01 than the chronic weeping of the AC Delco pumps would not be as prevalent. Unfortunately for Gen 2 LT1 motors with the optispark right behind the WP and the WP weep hole being where it is the Opti gets killed from coolant exposure...the opti itself is a decent distributor but can't live with coolant pissing on it.

When I did install the EWP I assumed it would die way sooner than a mechanical so I bought a second one to keep in trunk incase it did die and no auto part store would have one if I did break down so the spare I could swap it in minutes. That spare has sat in my trunk for 18 years now. At some point it will be used and I will send my original to Meziere for the $100 rebuild.

I live in SoCal where it gets hot and worked in Vegas for a period with very long 110 degree+ days of driving and never a problem. Solid relay wiring is essential for any EWP to be trouble free. Stick with a Meziere vs other brands for a EWP if you go that route

If you do EWP just keep the coupler in the glove box if you ever do get stranded without a spare EWP so you could put a regular WP on if it comes to that. You need to use the core of a mechanical WP to install a EWP for the LT1 motor
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I disassembled a old water pump i had to see if the seal could be replaced easily. It comes out easy enough but!, I fear it may be impossible to find. Any ideas?
197155
197156
197154
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Where can I get a bleeder valve for the pump? I know someone here was selling some nice ones, but that was many a years ago.
It is quite hard to find 1/8 NPT valves and I was hoping someone could point me to where I can find one.
TIA
 

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You also need shaft and bearing.
The one I did, way back, I got the parts from a rebuilder that was the supplier to my parts store.
This because the owner had the housing ceramic coated 🙄
My own car, I ran Meziere HD
It did leak after about 3 years.
They resealed it after a long drawn out back and forth.
They were going by production date, not my purchase date from a major retailer.
 

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Maybe here?

 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Still related, I'm going to go ahead and get some other Mantinence item while I have the water pump off, radiator hoses ect.
Should I replace the reservoir cap? Or is that not a maintenance item?
 

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It is a service part that should be replaced every couple years. As they tend to weaken over time.
 
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Probably the most important maintenance you could do while the water pump is off is FLUSHING all the crap out of the engine block and entire cooling system. Otherwise your heater core will clog and the water pump will not last long. I know removing the knock sensors is looking for trouble, but otherwise you cannot drain the block. My GATES water pump was around $50 and was a perfect fit. You might delete AIR pump and all the related plumbing while there.
 
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Where can I get a bleeder valve for the pump? I know someone here was selling some nice ones, but that was many a years ago.
It is quite hard to find 1/8 NPT valves and I was hoping someone could point me to where I can find one.
TIA
A member BigBlackBeaSSt used to sell nice ones. Try to get in touch with him. It is not a water pump bleeder, but rather cooling system bleeder. ))
 
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