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I'm fairly new here and looking to buy a 1994 - 1996 Fleewood. Preferably rear wheel drive with the tow package. What are the best years for this car? Any help I do appreciate. ( Hopefully I can find one here in Northern New Jersey)

Thanks.
 

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tow+package+fleetwood

20 hits with the search above.

There's a code for the tow package, I believe it gives you a mech. fan, higher gears and maybe drum rear brakes (not sure). anyway, the code is on a decal on the trunklid.

This one looks good for a couple of sources for identifying the code:
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=264368&highlight=tow+package+fleetwood

Compared to '95-6 a '94 has diff sideview mirrors and slightly diff dashpad IIRC, plus it uses OBD-1, which won't mean a spit's worth of diff to you. Center armrest is diff too. That's about it.

As much as the tow package, you'll def. want to upgrade suspension and get a tune. good luck in the hunt. Pay $3-5k for a good one instead of $1-2k for a crappy one. Just sayin'.
 

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I'd say that the '95 would my preference. It's got the large folding mirrors and OBDI.
 

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Who wouldn't be interested in an armored car? I know I'd love to have one.
 

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R1P Livery: 2.93 & a more comfy backseat that may have been overused.

V4P Tow Pack: 3.42 baby

(Doubt you're interested in V4U Limo, B9Q Hearse, or B05 Armour?)
An armoured Fleetwood recently featured here.
It weighed roughly 150% what a normal Fleetwood weighs.
2.2 tons is already in the light heavyweight class.
3.3 tons is rapidly approaching the morbidly obese class.
 

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I've driven heavy Armored Audi A8's, A6's, BMW 760's and Mercedes S and E class cars and I have to say that when done right they're great. They don't corner quite as well or get off the line quite as fast, but they're VERY quiet inside and have a nice feeling to drive.
 

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Make an offer on my daily '94. :D

136K miles, trans built with TransGo kit, Beast sunshell, Opti, water pump, fuel pump all replaced, 2.5" pipes with DynoMax muffs, Hotchkis springs, KYB shocks (need to be replaced), SS sway bars front and rear, Bendix brakes (also need to be replaced), tie rods, center link, idler arm, upper and lower ball joints all replaced, Roadmaster climate control, air pump delete, sewer pipe with K&N, Taylor wires, NGK plugs, double DIN deck with MP3, snow tires on stock wheels, GoodYear hoses, silicone vacuum hoses, recent A/C compressor, accumulator/dryer, orifice tube. Has some cosmetic blemishes (dent on hood, couple paint chips), interior is excellent. 2.56 gears.

I also have SS wheels with Caddy emblems and Kumho tires...may consider letting those go too.

Dumped a ton of time and money into this car, then racked up a lot of miles commuting 160 miles/day NJ-PA, but runs like a champ. Does about 15mpg city, 23 highway, 20 combined on 87 octane. Been talking about replacing it, or driving it into the ground. :)

 

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I have a 96 and running a scangauge is completely worth having obd2. Keep in mind the only gauges you get are speed, an odometer, and fuel level.

Being able to monitor the RPMs, Temp, and MPG are nice. Obviously you could just run them the old fashioned way but the convenience is nice.

I can't seem to figure out the code for trans temp though

pardon my fuel level

 

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A gauge on the dash would be nice for all those, but I view them for free through the climate control (only when needed, however). ;)

* EDIT - ok, not MPG, but I just calculate that the old fashioned way. :)
 

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Stay with 94 and 95's for OBD1, better performance also, easy and cheap to PCM tune as well.
 

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i got a 96 tow package. I converted to electric fans for many reasons. Got a PCM tune so it will shift into 4th at 30mph instead of 40 something. the 3.42 gears are nice. Supposedly has a stronger transmission which I guess is good. 96 has 4 o2 sensors instead of 2 so that costs an extra $60 when its time to change em. 96 also has a crankshaft sensor that does nothing. My 96 has heated seats, not sure what other years do? Everything else is pretty much the same.
 

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Any reason a 1993 was not mentioned? Because it does not have the LT1 engine? I wanted a 94-96 as well, but when I purchased my '93, it had plenty of power... many think its a slouch, but its not, this car will move. Also I have heard that its cheaper to work on than the LT1 engine.

Good luck with the search!
 

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My vote goes to the '95 for the same reasons others have mentioned. LT1, Obd1, bigger mirrors and not the first model year.
 

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Any reason a 1993 was not mentioned? Because it does not have the LT1 engine? I wanted a 94-96 as well, but when I purchased my '93, it had plenty of power... many think its a slouch, but its not, this car will move. Also I have heard that its cheaper to work on than the LT1 engine.

Good luck with the search!
The 93s are hard to find parts for if something breaks. There are a lot of year specific parts under the hood, and the engine wiring harness is unique to that year. With all of the changes, the 94-95s have the most interchangable parts available. These are getting older, and parts are getting harder to find.
 
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