The tiewraps are not under any stress, and will not rust, so they are cheap and effective. They are only there to keep the spring from bouncing out of the seat.
I got more done this weekend and today. The frame welding is done and today I got to finish the paint for now. Black to be final finish. While I was welding the frame I welded some 5/8th in washers to the lower control arms. The sway bar link holes wallowed a little. I had intended to powder coat the arms but decided to use the frame paint. They will be black too. I had bought some POR 15 but decided to use the Eastwood Platinum instead.(No UV problem and I can spray into tight spots.) I got a quart and then thought a little more thinking it would be better. 1 Qt. was enough for 2 coats on the frame and the control arms. I sprayed it with the cheapie HF purple gun and it worked out pretty good. IMHO. Prior to the above frame paint I had already used the EW internal frame paint. It covered pretty good too. Now I don't have to worry about it raining on my frame while I'm working on other things in the garage.
I bought the last full bag of Black Diamond at Tractor Supply. It was damp so I had to lay it out on a tarp and sweep it around all day between other jobs. Finally got it dried and was able to blast my front upper control arms. While it was drying I got the third coat of black on my frame. That was drying so I decided to work on the alternator/ power steering pump bracket. The water pump I got has a raised portion that caused me to have to relieve a spot in the bracket. I got it cut out and worked on the profile of it and started to grind off the casting flash. Finally the BD dried so I could start the blasting. I also started on the gas tank straps while I was there. I ran out of the BD because of a hose coming off my pressure pot and spewing the BD all over. All in all it was a good day.
The tiewraps are not under any stress, and will not rust, so they are cheap and effective. They are only there to keep the spring from bouncing out of the seat.
I've never heard/read about this in the past so let me ask a little bit here...
Are you saying that when the suspension system in in jounce, that you have had a rear spring come out of it's "home" resting area?
I would think that in a normal state of compression that they're not going to go anywhere, and then on the suspension at it's peak travel in jounce, that the spring would still be held in there rather well because of the shock limiting that travel, and the spring still being under some compression.
I've never heard/read about this in the past so let me ask a little bit here...
Are you saying that when the suspension system in in jounce, that you have had a rear spring come out of it's "home" resting area?
I would think that in a normal state of compression that they're not going to go anywhere, and then on the suspension at it's peak travel in jounce, that the spring would still be held in there rather well because of the shock limiting that travel, and the spring still being under some compression.
The rear drop springs are so short, that they could fall out if the conditions are right. When you jack the rear to change a tire, the suspension must drop far enough to get the tire out from under the skirting. This requires a stock shock. To do so allows the axle to drop far enough that the spring no longer touches the upper spring seat. At that point, the spring can fall over, and not engage the perch. Strapping it to the lower perch alone could remedy this, but for a positive approach, trapping the spring is much preferred. I have had the springs fall out of alignment, and ended up against the frame completely behind the spring seat. It is not a stretch to have the spring completely fall from between the axle and frame, as there is no lateral support for the spring.
There may be some drop springs that will stay in contact with both spring seats even with the rear axle at full extension. The ones I have are short, and will fall out of position with the rear of the car jacked to change a tire.
The rear drop springs are so short, that they could fall out if the conditions are right. When you jack the rear to change a tire, the suspension must drop far enough to get the tire out from under the skirting. This requires a stock shock. To do so allows the axle to drop far enough that the spring no longer touches the upper spring seat. At that point, the spring can fall over, and not engage the perch. Strapping it to the lower perch alone could remedy this, but for a positive approach, trapping the spring is much preferred. I have had the springs fall out of alignment, and ended up against the frame completely behind the spring seat. It is not a stretch to have the spring completely fall from between the axle and frame, as there is no lateral support for the spring.
There may be some drop springs that will stay in contact with both spring seats even with the rear axle at full extension. The ones I have are short, and will fall out of position with the rear of the car jacked to change a tire.
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I did make these and welded them on along with the front brace. I made them from 1X2 inch flat stock and drilled & tapped them. Holes line up with stock and I have 3/8th inch ARP small head 12 point bolts for it.
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Stout brace, but I don't get it. You drilled and tapped, then welded errthing anyway?
Bob, The drilled & tapped holes are for the sway bar brackets and bushings. I don't have to worry about the slinky little speed clips in the frame. Welding makes it a lot stiffer and that's a good thing. I got the small head ARP bolts for the clearance bolting the SB on. I just made sure the holes lined up for "spec" reinstall. I didn't intend to confuse.
Hey Bob, I hope it's the right thing I'm doing. I've researched it for over 2 years and took ideas from so many on here. Scot, Choo, SSandman, Fernando, Fred and more. It should be so firm I call it my See Alice frame.> Today, if nothing else comes along, I'll make a stand to hang parts on for painting. Then I hope to get back on my control arms. The Moog Bushings came in the other day.
Started back on my '91, last time I messed with it I had a no start due to no fuel at the injectors. Pulled the relay out and put in a diagnostic style relay bypass with an on/off and it started right up. Interestingly enough, after I put the "bad" relay in it still started up. So either I shocked some life into the pump with the on/off ability of the bypass plug, or the contacts were juuuust dirty enough to not make proper contact. Elated by my freshly running car I pressure washed all the grime off of it from sitting, and promptly blew a brake line. I swear this car does not want to return to the road!
After a late start today. I was able to get some done on the diff. I got it completely torn down. I pulled the bearings from the ends and got the races out. The brakes were a beast. The rear sat outside for awhile and the the drums were locked on the shoes. I finally got them off and then the lower control arm bolts were so rusted and tight. I couldn't even break them loose with breaker bars or impact. (I had also heated the nuts and sprayed PB blaster on them for several days prior.) I finally had to cut the nuts with a cutoff wheel. I scraped some dirt off the housing and then took it to the car wash. I got home blew it off with air and then I tried something I had seen done on you tube. A guy used a needle scaler to get the entire thing looking a lot better. I had a scaler already. I had bought it to clean the frame on a trailer for a friend. That thing did a bang up job. It got into the nooks & crannies. Tomorrow I hope to be able to run a wire brush over it and clean it out inside some more. Then it will be time to paint.
Ever onward.
Things slowed down some, due to family. (MIL) But I finally have the entire rear cleaned and painted. Two coats of POR15, 2 of primer and 2 coats of VHT. I got the bearing races installed and I have all the parts to do an entire new assembly, minus the housing. I bought new gears and will post the old ones and the reluctor in the proper area. I'm hoping that today or tomorrow I will be able to weld up a handle to hold the yoke while I tighten the pinion nut. I also was able to make up the set-up bearings for the pinion. (It only took 6 porting cylinders) I was concerned that the old one would be different than the new one. Old one was Timkin and the new one was Koyo. I put a micrometer to them and both measured the same. I still get lucky at times. 😈
After a slow start today I went to HF & HD to get some more tools and look for something to install bearings on the pinion and carrier. I did some measuring and decided that 11/2 inch steel galvanized would work. I got a 6 inch nipple and a cap. I also had to throw in some other items to get it on. I used a 36 MM socket and took an axle bearing apart and used the race, it fit just fine. I used the socket to start the bearing onto the diff carrier and the axle race with other items as shown in the third pic. Prior to installing the pinion bearing I measured the depth and I came up with what Fred found on his rear, .038 inch. I'm hoping to get the entire thing finished tomorrow, minus the brakes. I have started cleaning parts on them too.
I have started pulling my b4u interior & putting it in my 9c1. Fairly easy swap. Started in the rear. Going to do headliner tomorrow. Carpet on Friday.
My title reads caprice. Every thing else says impala...seats....logo...had it since 2012....it sat for three years in chicago weather...i drive it every day now bout 50 miles a day....love it....oil leak driving me crazy now....all over engine....no other problem....told to clean engine to find...
Yesterday pick up a 92 Caprice LMZ 305 Car. This car has a factory type sunroof. I looked thought the web pictures last night My count was Zero.
That included RoadMasters & FleetWoods... Just joined this site I'll post a pic when I get some and figure out how to post
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Today, if nothing else comes along, I'll make a stand to hang parts on for painting. Then I hope to get back on my control arms. The Moog Bushings came in the other day.
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