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The past couple of weeks I've been busy collecting parts and starting something I thought I never would do. More on that in a bit. I did make a holder and modified my old 750# engine stand. I welded some angle to it and added 2 casters after removing the single one on the peg leg. After I got that done I was able to mount my transmission and it all held up fine. Once that was done the real fun began, disassembly. I looked at all these parts and thought to myself "What have I done?" I just figure I'm learning more. Once I started to inspect the parts I found I was going to need more than I had thought. The input drum had some issues and I didn't like what I found. Also the separator plate was a bit beat up from the balls.
So the parts I have to go into this are:
I got a rebuild kit with the Z Pak and upgraded molded pistons.
Corvette servo
13 vane pump
Sonnax servo release check valve, throttle valve plunger release, long sun gear bushing, .500 boost valve, long servo pin & their separator plate.
I got hardened pump rings and a TransGo shift kit.
Today I got some small filters that go into the valve body. I had only seen them called "thimble Filters" I found them finally under governor filter screen.
I have a manifold to mount to the frame and install a temp gauge. I ordered the gauge today along with a single gauge pod for the A pillar. If anyone is interested, AutoMeter has 1, 2, & 3 gauge pods for the "B" body. It may look ricer but it's the only place I could mount the gauge
. Bumper Table Automotive wheel system Machine Automotive exterior

Circular saw Machine

Table Machine Machine tool Metal

Tire Automotive tire Wheel Spoke Auto part


If I'm missing something please chime in and let me know. I'm about to start. I do have the FSM, both ATSG books & another book on the 4l60, my model trans. I've been watching lots of videos and found some good info there. TransGo has some install videos too. I downloaded the one for my trans to my lap top and can refer to it while I'm building. Video Assistance
Hope some of this is helpful.

Mark: Snowman-33

Edit: Forgot to add that I also have 5 pinion front & rear gears.
 

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Nice score. But it looks like some gal left her shoes on getting busy inside. o_O
 

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Nice score. But it looks like some gal left her shoes on getting busy inside. o_O
😳 I know huh! As long as she swallowed so it wouldn’t get all over the seats, then it was a win win situation for all parties involved. 😬
 

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Not all of what I got done was today. I've been real busy with mowing mine and the MIL's lawns. She has two yards I have to do.
Oh well. I got my differential center section lined out. I'm not putting the new axles in yet. I'll do that once I have the diff on the frame. (Easier to manhandle) I got the ARP lug bolts but have to cut them down a bit.
I debated with myself, sometimes heated discussions, on going with an Edelbrock or keep the factory intake I modded. Well I won the debate and got the Edelbrock. It's the Performer EPS. Then I had to get the adapter for the TBI. Trans-Dapt covered that. I thought I would have to have it machined to fit the 46 MM throttle plates but all was good there. They fit with a little room to spare. I have to either paint or powder coat the adapter but I have time. Of course the intake required that I get a new distributor. I did research and looked at reviews. I settled on the D.U.I. with the Demon coil. They claim you can open the spark plug gap up to .065. The distributor came in on Monday and I looked it over and handled it. It's Made in America and it's a sight. Looks to be well made and the finish is great. After looking it over and feeling how nice it was I almost thought I would need a cigarette and towel. 😈 I got the intake on and had put some break in oil in and then I started to turn the oil drive. I was only using my hand to turn it to see how it felt. Then I noticed oil shooting out of the filter housing. Damn. I had forgot to get an adapter. All the big auto stores had one so I got that and some 5/8th-18 flange bolts. I may put that in tomorrow, depending on time. There have been a few other little things but nothing important, yet.
Auto part Automotive engine part
Auto part Automotive engine part Tool accessory Automotive ignition part Tool


Mark: Snowman-33
 
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Not all of what I got done was today. I've been real busy with mowing mine and the MIL's lawns. She has two yards I have to do.
Oh well. I got my differential center section lined out. I'm not putting the new axles in yet. I'll do that once I have the diff on the frame. (Easier to manhandle) I got the ARP lug bolts but have to cut them down a bit.
I debated with myself, sometimes heated discussions, on going with an Edelbrock or keep the factory intake I modded. Well I won the debate and got the Edelbrock. It's the Performer EPS. Then I had to get the adapter for the TBI. Trans-Dapt covered that. I thought I would have to have it machined to fit the 46 MM throttle plates but all was good there. They fit with a little room to spare. I have to either paint or powder coat the adapter but I have time. Of course the intake required that I get a new distributor. I did research and looked at reviews. I settled on the D.U.I. with the Demon coil. They claim you can open the spark plug gap up to .065. The distributor came in on Monday and I looked it over and handled it. It's Made in America and it's a sight. Looks to be well made and the finish is great. After looking it over and feeling how nice it was I almost thought I would need a cigarette and towel. 😈 I got the intake on and had put some break in oil in and then I started to turn the oil drive. I was only using my hand to turn it to see how it felt. Then I noticed oil shooting out of the filter housing. Damn. I had forgot to get an adapter. All the big auto stores had one so I got that and some 5/8th-18 flange bolts. I may put that in tomorrow, depending on time. There have been a few other little things but nothing important, yet.
View attachment 194489 View attachment 194490

Mark: Snowman-33
The new distributor will be impossible to install after installing the intake manifold, because it is substantially taller than the OEM unit. It may not fit under the cowl, or you may have to install it with the intake manifold. You can bore the distributor hole to fit the OEM unit. You need to make a couple of other mods for the OEM distributor as well. The bolt for the clamp may be a little tight against the OEM distributor, but you can elongate the hole of the clamp to make it fit. You must also install the clamp after installing the OEM distributor, because it will not retract far enough to allow the distributor to be removed with it in place.
 

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Fred, I'm aware of all the downside issues with my choice. During the discussions with myself that item came up many times. I decided that I will deal/live with the distributor I chose. It's just one of those Hot Rodder things. I just have to make sure I do it all correctly before I put the engine in. All the research on here has been a great help with my project. I have a lot of parts that I bought and then decided to go a different way after learning things on here.
Thanks Bud,

Mark: Snowman-33
 
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1993 Chevrolet Caprice Classic Driftwood Metallic 5.8 Vortec TBI
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2 days ago replaced Left Rear E-brake cable and gave drum an initial adjustment. need to punch out knockout on backing plate to final adjust + do same things to right rear this weekend
 

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I know it's been awhile. I was down for a bit and later found out, after giving blood, that I had Covid-19. I didn't have any of the symptoms that have been shown. No fever or anything. I just felt like cold DoDo and couldn't eat. I lived of the fat of the land and lost 18#. I'm back now and have made some progress.
I installed the diff then put on the backing plates. After I pressed in the studs I put in the Moser axles. It's nice how a well made product feels. After that I put in the wheel cylinders and stainless steel lines on the differential. Then it was back to some work on the engine. My LLO5, I thought of calling it LO5+ but nah.

Best to all, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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Chevy Caprice Classic 1996, 5.7 liter
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107 Posts
Changed the lifters, installed / set 1.6 roller tip rockers, painted the valve covers.
Changed the tune so it stays in gear to red line, (so I can beat it
on the Dyno again) :) and Installed resonators (still didn't put the H-pipe
in yet, ogh well ...
Where did you get your rockers from & did you change the CAM out?
 

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1991 Chevy Caprice 9C1
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30 Posts
I was involved in a hit and run. Just got my joint out the body shop. Decided to go with a cowl-induction hood, I also had my transmission completely overhauled while it was there. Such a major difference in performance. I want to rebuild the engine like now but It runs so strong. I feel like I just need to relax until I get to 250/300k on the engine
before I rebuild.
 

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1995 Chevrolet Caprice 9c1(L99). L92 swap coming soon...
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Installed a new spotlight handle & gear selector handle.... i've done a few more mods since I've updated on the forum. Steering wheel, led bulb for spotlight, double din swap, express van knobs on hvac module. I also have a l92(truck 6.2) motor being built(awaiting pistons from Mahle).
199426
 

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Where did you get your rockers from & did you change the CAM out?
Wow, I can't believe I missed your replay. My apologies. If I remember correctly I got the rockers from Jegs. Yes there is a new cam, Comp 8-500-8 .480/.488. It's all a moot point now as I just tore the LO5 down to the short block and have ordered a Skip White 383. I tore the heads down yesterday and will redo them, gasket match, new valve springs and a little more. I now have Comp roller rocker arms (1.6). I took the never run Performer EPS off and got an air gap Performer RPM for the new motor along with new EFI. Lots for sale later.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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Hey folks. Recently bought a 1995 Carpice wagon with the LT1. Looking for some input on a few things....

1. I'd like to gut my catalytic converters to allow the engine to breathe better and deepen the exhaust a little. Will the factory ECU be able to adjust the AFR on it's own, or will I need a custom tune?
2. My engine has begun to sputter when accelerating, it's happens here and there when the engine is warm, but almost every time when i do a cold start. Only modifciations i have made so far is removing the screen on the air intake tube near the MAF. I heard it was a small air flow upgrade you could do, but now I'm starting to wonder if the AFR's are off because of it...
3. im getting some condensation drips near the AC blower under the passenger side of dash. Could this be a clogged drain tube related to the AC system? Any tips on how to approach that would be helpful as well.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Gutting cats will not affect the A/F ratio.

The sputter could have a number of sources. It could be the coil, ignition module, plug wires, coil wire, or distributor.

The condensation drips could be the drain tube is clogged, or the elbow on the outside is missing. You can do a visual inspection of the elbow, and if it is there, you can remove it and put a wire or other object into the drain to break up the clog. Remember to put the elbow back if you clean the drain.
 

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Gutting cats will not affect the A/F ratio.

The sputter could have a number of sources. It could be the coil, ignition module, plug wires, coil wire, or distributor.

The condensation drips could be the drain tube is clogged, or the elbow on the outside is missing. You can do a visual inspection of the elbow, and if it is there, you can remove it and put a wire or other object into the drain to break up the clog. Remember to put the elbow back if you clean the drain.
Thanks Fred! I thought removing the insides of the cat would send signals to the downstream 02 sensor telling the PCM that the exhaust airfllow was too high, which might make the PCM increase the fuel ratio, making it run rich. Please provide feedback where my train of thought is faulty.
 

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Gutting cats will not affect the A/F ratio.

The sputter could have a number of sources. It could be the coil, ignition module, plug wires, coil wire, or distributor.

The condensation drips could be the drain tube is clogged, or the elbow on the outside is missing. You can do a visual inspection of the elbow, and if it is there, you can remove it and put a wire or other object into the drain to break up the clog. Remember to put the elbow back if you clean the drain.
Also, what would be your process of diagnosis for determining if the sputtering is coming from the plugs or wires or coil or ignition module? I do not want to start throwing parts at it while crossing my fingers. I purchased an OBD1 code reader and the manual says that it is only good for the 4.3 liter in the 1995 model so i guess im out of luck with that.
 
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