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What did you do to your Wagon this week?

338969 Views 2685 Replies 279 Participants Last post by  Fred Kiehl
I'll start.........

Rear brakes.. (the lining separated from the front shoe on the drivers side and toasted the drum..... :mad:)
and I cleaned the winters dust off of the motor!
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Addco! Need I say more?
You might, what was-is the original application of that rear bar?
Ok, we are going to assume you have a 94-96 "B" body due to the comment about the water.

Why are you removing the throttle body ?

It was been a while but I remember no issue removing the throttle body.
Isn't the throttle cable a matter of gently squeezing the housing to release it from the bracket?
The PCV ( pic valve ?) is in the left side of the intake , not under the throttle body.
Gasket kit 17113178 should help you

My parts book did not give a good break down but this sight suggests that kit will give you the two important gaskets so you can fully clean the passages

While you are there , most do not reconnect the water , just run the line from the reservoir directly to the steel line coming up the passenger side rocker.
Heating the TB is to prevent icing during "optimum" weather ( humidity-temp-air pressure at throttle blades), I don't think anyone have reported icing on there set ups even in the worst conditions.
Add to that, if the lower gasket or chamber leaked into the IAC passages, you could fill the engine full of coolant.

PCV, I remember steel line with "rubber" on each end . Maybe a plastic 90 on the valve
Stock it is ,
steel line up rail
rubber elbow hose clamped to line and TB
rubber line out of TB to reservoir with clamps

Take the long hose from the reservoir trim it to an esthetic length, connect it to the steel line coming up the passengers side using one of the left over clamps.

Throw away old elbow.

While you have the throttle body off, you can grab the old , now unused, water nipples and pull them out.

Makes a more finished job because you don't have the old nipples sitting there.
No need to plug the holes as they only pass through the TB , going nowhere
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Quarter panel is off, that is one tough job. Now on to easier things, yeah right.
So nice to see the full quarter going on at the factory joints rather than the slice and poo method.

That sure is a nice inner sittin left over
Put some "other" tires on only to have the track rained out


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Going to try for next Friday
My prediction is lack lustre ET with a somewhat impressive MPH
Worried about the launch


Bog it, burn it , or brake it :)

Because of the brakes I am using a less than desirable 26-10.5-17 rear tire with very little side wall
I have ZERO idea how it will work
Fixed my lumbar compressor ,

I have been putting it off as it is a bit of a pain to get to

It would only compress, not evacuate.

Took the vane pump apart , cleaned and realigned the housing so it would run about the same in both directions.


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It's been pretty good , nothing really has happened or gone wrong.

I may take another swing at the drags next month if time-work allows.

My "people" keep acquiring more-new cars

Plus my GXP has been diverting my attention :)
Being it is already Olds powered, I would be putting a 455 Olds in .

Or a GOOD 350 Olds , with a little compression.

some might suggest the 403 , I have a bit of a person hate on for them so my opinion on them can't be trusted ;)
Well , to each their own.
Granted I am a little bias

My thinking was everything you have already fits.
Mounts, trans,brackets, WP , starter,flywheel, throttle, wiring ,fuel lines, etc etc, etc.

What did my LS swap cost ? Well probably 5 times what my car is worth:(
No labor out, other than the finish welding on my headers and building my rad
Everything was new.
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You should start your own complete car builds so your info on this swap can be found in one place.

Question, what type of hose did you make that clutch line out of ?
PTFE-lined stainless braided hose.
Good deal , the cloth overbraid had me worried.

The gas was more expensive. I remember it being $2.46/Gal.
I try not to look at the price, as it just depresses me.

After reading this, I did the liter to gallon- cdn dollar to us dollar conversion ,,,,,,, just for fun

Ethanol free Chevron premium for the wagon costs me $ 5.01 us for a us gallon here.

I think Vancouver BC might be the highest fuel prices in North America
Lucky our wages are so high and real estate is soooo low :rolleyes::rolleyes:

To keep on track, I walked by it and promised to take it out for a blast soon.
do you have to run 94 octane ?
Have to? , possibly not, more like choose to.

If I recall, the 2008 Z06 ( which is what my engine is) recommended fuel was 93.
I tuned the car with Chevron 94 , I try not to move from that.
In my humble opinion, one should try and stay with one fuel in a performance deal, if for no other reason than specific gravity.
My car has narrow band O2s so it can't make any WOT compensations to fuel.

Yes, it has knock sensors but relying on them to control timing would be pretty stupid.

I have no problem putting lessor fuel, on say a road trip , where I am cruising and not beating on it.

But I am not going to fill it up in east [email protected]&*@ with cheap unknown gas and go out and wail on it.

The cheapest gas I can buy as of today here is still 4.35 us for a us gallon.

So the difference is about 11 us bucks a tank , not that I am going to do that in the wagon .

The 2 liter Ford I drive most days, is wide band and much more sophisticated.
It will happily drive on anything but the power loss is noticeable and the mileage indicated changes significantly.
so if you factor in the mileage difference ( part octane, part as fred pointed out, part ethanol) between higher octane fuel and low octane laced with grain, the dollar per mile is not quite as much as it looks.

Least that's all just my opinion
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I just replaced my starter I believe in always using original parts no matter which car it is when i found out the dealer wanted almost 600.00 for a starter i about died, I did some asking around and was told by several people i should try this website that sells only dealer O.E. parts but super cheap. I saved $236.00 and it was the same exact part as from the dealership. I'll be going here from now on for all me parts check it out it's almost to good to believe.,8+Cyl+5.7+L+GAS)
Glad you found the starter you wanted for a reasonable price.
What i dont understand though is you say you JUST found that vendor and will now be buying all your GM parts there.
But you have hyped that sight numerous times going back 10 months .
You also use 96 impala on the lookup, not that is different, and you are posting in the wagon section.
So what car do you have ???

Forgive me if I am offbase

Pimping sight without paying vender fees ?

Also cheaper other places.

PLUS i dont think that is the same planetary inline reduction starter that was OE

Of the 16 posts by Impalapro 4 include the recommendation for the same vendor. A different one recommends GM parts. Most of the rest of the posts are greeting new members.

Has all the looks of social media manipulation.
Do you have access to and old operating system computer , like window 95-98 ?
If so I might have an old geometry program that might help you .

Look at some of Howes offerings as basis for scratch building a centerlink.

They have ends and stuff that are adjustable, disassemble"able"

You could weld end housings that the pins are removable to a thick plate profiled to clear the pan best as possible
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