Chevy Impala SS Forum banner

2261 - 2280 of 2319 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
318 Posts
Over the last few weeks have been making steady progress on things...

Last weekend I was able to get the front suspension mocked up and the coil-over brackets tacked in on one side. All in all, no major issues (though a few minor ones that I need to work out with SpeedTech/Vi-King), everything seems to fit well and looks pretty cool.

Cut away the upper shock mount "fold over" from the upper control arm bracket. The air chisel made quick work of the bottom two welds to the frame and a diamond cutoff wheel was used to score the top about 1/2 way through and then just bent it back/forth a few times until it broke.




I was able to sandblast the remaining areas with my homemade vacuum sandblaster. Details about this tool here > https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=422435
It works pretty well (much better than a wire wheel for sure!).


Then I was able to start mocking up the bracket and cutting the spring perch away. I only ended up cutting off the little fingers and a small crescent shape section from the "outside". Maybe 1/4" at most. I was concerned about how much needed to be removed (claimed 4.5" diameter circle in the instructions), but have no worries about it now.








After that, I could start mocking up the upper mount for the coilover.




Then I could move the coilover and lower control arm through full travel (spring removed) and insure there were no places of interference.


More in a few minutes :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
318 Posts
On the less visually exciting side of things, I am ~90% done documenting the electro-mechanical theory of operation of the wiper motor assembly and circuitry. This needs to be done so I can retain the park functionality of the 1996 wipers while using the 2012 BCM to control them (which does not have any "Park" functionality).

I'll post the document here for everyone's review once I'm done with it.

I should have some time after Christmas to work on the car again - goal is to get the other side done, the coil over brackets welded in and a coat of paint on everything. Also like to get the spindles modified to accept the 5/8 lower ball joints. FYI - these ball joints use a 2 inches per 1 foot taper (both the 9/16 and 5/8). I've found a couple different reamers online - quite a wide variety in price and style - can anyone with some machining experience explain the advantages/disadvantages of one over the other?

I'm planning to do this by hand or with a slow speed drill (just two holes to enlarge, so not too worried if it takes a bit longer to do it by hand).

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Tapered-Ball-Joint-Reamer-10-Degree,29005.html
https://xkut-reamers.com/products/2-taper-per-foot-ball-joint-tie-rod-taper-reamer-5902?variant=1076092812
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-80771-Tapered-Ball-Joint-Reamer-10-Degree,23749.html

Once all the above is done, I can do full range of motion testing with the wheel fit tool and figure out wheel/tire sizes that will fit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,105 Posts
Those are all High Speed Steel (HSS). You should get carbide, or cobalt, or they will dull quickly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
318 Posts
Thanks Fred - I'd like cobalt or even carbide, but have not found anything like that online.

This is the one I'm thinking of getting at this point (for lack of any other options...). They seem to be an actual machine tool company vs speedway reselling someone else's stuff.

Anything that I've been able to find in carbide or cobalt have been in morse tapers or taper pins for industrial machinery and all the wrong angle. Can you or anyone else point me in the right direction to find a quality reamer?

I used a Snap-On reamer to enlarge some holes on my 1st attempt at a centerlink and it worked fine. It had been used quite a bit before I got to use it, I'm pretty sure it's just high speed steel. I think as long as I don't try to go too fast (rotational speed) and heat things up/work harden the material (correct speed/feed) it should be fine. Don't get me wrong, I'd love to have a nice high quality reaming tool for this and any other future projects, but I have not been able to find them outside of having one custom made, at which point I may as well order the last 9C1 5/8" spindles linked a few posts above :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,105 Posts
If you work slowly, and with lubricant, it should be OK. I usually run the other way from HSS, because it does not cut metals very well, long term. It may be that due to the limited use for the tool, there are no high quality ones available.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,777 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,105 Posts
I have not used any reamers for the balljoints. I have run only stock spindles. If I need the oversize BJs, I will wait until I find a set in the JY.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,605 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
318 Posts
Just to add, its not like the knuckles are a super alloy or terribly hard.
They are a casting.


Fix until broke, if you are going to use a mill, proper cutting fluid , and the ream is undamaged, I might be interested in splitting the cost with you.
There is more to flute angle than I realized

Thanks for the link - I believe the knuckles are ductile iron, cheap to manufacture such a unique shape, yet not brittle so low risk of catastrophic failure.

It is UN-likely that I will use a mill, proper cutting fluid or have no damage to the tool for this job - I don't have a mill, but even if I did, the setup would be quite tedious just to get it fixtured. I'll likely do it by hand with a ratchet or similar with a spare ball joint to test for fitment/depth so I know when to stop. This should minimize the chance of damaging the spindle or the tool and yield a good finish.

I have not used any reamers for the balljoints. I have run only stock spindles. If I need the oversize BJs, I will wait until I find a set in the JY.
Fred - I know you have a regular junkyard crawl, so if you come across a set of B body spindles that fit 5/8 ball joints, ABS sensors, and have good bearing races I'm all ears.

I looked at all of these reamers posted. On this one, https://xkut-reamers.com/products/2-taper-per-foot-ball-joint-tie-rod-taper-reamer-5902?variant=1076092812, I noticed that they appear to be the proper taper you stated. Also if you have not read further down they also offer resharpening of the reamer for $20. Interesting too, they are the least expensive of all.

Mark: Snowman-33
Mark - All the ones that I posted are of the proper taper (2"/foot), thought they may show other tools on the same page with different tapers. The xkut brand looks good, however are out of stock for 2 of the 3 sizes/styles.

I'm starting to get the feeling that it does not matter much if the ream is straight or spiral for this application. There are no interrupted cuts, it's a through hole, I'm not trying to reduce the machining time, etc. It may come down to price and availability?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,105 Posts
If you mic the end of the ball joint stud, and match the reamer with it, you can put a piece of tape around the taper...when you reach the tape it is done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
318 Posts
Fred, thanks for the tip, but I'm not sure I follow, The tape would go on the big end, right? Otherwise it would get worn off in the cutting process? I think you need to stop short on the small end so the nut can pull the stud up into the hole and draw it tight. Below is where the 9/16 stud engages the stock spindle. There are two red lines, one at the base and another about 3 threads up from the taper. Do I have the right understanding here? Are we saying the same thing, but different ways?

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,105 Posts
The big end is correct. Make sure the small end does not protrude, or you will need a washer under the nut. I guess that means you would measure the thickness of the spindle and measure the taper of the ball stud just a little closer to the step for the threads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Swapped stock lights with Chinesium ones. They used to be $200 few years ago, now I got these from Walmart (out off places) for $97 shipped
192224
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Quality is absolute bottom- theyy are about 1/2 weight of the stock unit. Molds are also imperfect, had to dremmel sockets for turn/position light to make it fit. They did come with corner lights as well, but I decided not to install them since they looked...well, rice-y
192225
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Stock on the right, aftermarket on the left (driver side), low beams. I deliberately left them mis-aligned to see the difference. Stock was still putting out a "blot" of light, much like a flashlight with little light coverage to the left and right. Aftermarked still has a "blot", but its much more generous with output to the side; optical cut-off is good, much better than stock
192226
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Stock on the right, aftermarket left (driver side), high beams: Stock light still puts out a "blot", aftermarket is (again) more spread to the side while still remaining a lot of light in the center focus
192227
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Both aftermarket lights, aimed correctly, low beam: Installed brand new "80% more light output" Wagner on the right side (passenger). I cannot tell the difference (they were on sale at Rock Auto)
192228
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Both aftermarket, high beams. Much more light than stock, nice cut-offs.
192229
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Aftermarket, low-beams, real-life condition: Much better! Instead having two very dim "blot" of lights in front, with miniscule illumination on the sides, now the lighting is far more generous, with a more even spread. There is still some "blotting" in the middle, but its much less pronounced. These are still stock bulbs (left is brand new), with stock wiring harness.
192230
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Aftermarket, high beams: Again, improvement both in light output as well as in coverage
192231
 
2261 - 2280 of 2319 Posts
Top