I just finished replacing the stock 3.23 rear on my OCC with a 3.42. I built the axle with Moser axles, Truetrac differential, and premium Richmond gears. It runs quiet, and makes the tires spin a little more than the 3.23. I must put a 2 tooth larger driven gear on the VSS to calm down the speedo. I need to write down the mileage for the break-in oil change. Pinion shim is 0.038", and I have .010" lash. This is my first rear rebuild, and all the mystery is BS.
I also replaced the steering intermediate shaft with a home made unit using a couple of inexpensive stainless universals I found on ebay (look exactly like the Borgeson units), and a couple of OEM shafts dissected, and reassembled to fit. It managed to slip a couple of splines while installing, but that is easy to fix. It really cleaned up my engine compartment by removing a lot of heat shielding on the heat vulnerable rubber parts of the OEM unit.
Lucky you didn't fall for any of the BS like this guys advice
#15 • Sep 5, 2018
The pinion can be set a little tall (.060 to .090 in.) and it will actually be a stronger unit. You can install the pinion once with the above shims, and you do not have to take it out for adjustments.
I said that, and found that it was too high. 0.038 is actually a little high, according to some people. I read up on the shim height, and found the upper limit is about 0.042. Stock shims are usually about 0.036. A little taller does make the rear stronger, but there is a limit.
A friend and I had an antenna party Saturday. We both swapped working antennas for the ones with broken cables. A 2 hour job ended up being about 5 hours because of a couple of glitches, and dumb errors. The antennas are difficult to remove with the mast fully extended, but the masts are impossible to find, so I never cut them off. I will probably repair both of the removed ones, and sell them. I am currently experimenting with steel cables instead of nylon. If I put a steel cable in them, it should never break again. I am considering about $175 per antenna repaired with a steel cable with a good antenna mast and motor returned to me.
Today I replaced the roller for the driver's door opening detent. The part I used had to have the shaft turned to match the bottom of the hinge, and threaded it for a nut. Looks, and works like new. I had to cut the shaft off above the bottom plate of the hinge, and pushed the bottom out. I compressed the spring, and swapped the part allowing the threaded part to go through the bottom. I put a nylock nut on it, and snugged it up with my electric driver.
I helped my friend to fix his DS front window that broke the slider. I also helped him repair his DS door card, and started on the PS I also fixed his inop gate, and glass popper last week.
There's a post on facebook from Sprocket - basically ALL of the roofrack nuts above his headliner had leaked water. That will be added to my project list - removing the headliner and then replacing and resealing all those nuts with better parts.
I replied to that. The wellnuts are readily available, but the rivnuts are no longer available. You can get rivnuts that will pretty much fit the holes of the rails, but require larger screws. The screws are all stainless.
Cleaned the air filter. I just love being able to see the atomized fuel spray from the throttle body injectors. Simplicity.
Take care not to pinch the harness between T/B and filter box. Found that out the hard way years ago.
I had an incident with my trans mount breaking. It allowed the tail shaft housing to hit the crossmember, and warped it. It caused a leak at the VSS housing. Got the housing replaced today, and am driving it again. Just Right Transmissions in Largo, FL are great.
Today I finished up a steering system overhaul. New box, pump and lines. Drives like a new car.
Out with old...
In with the new...
Had to replace some heater hoses and drained the cooling system, cleaned it up and put everything back together with a new reservoir. China repops available on eBay now for $56 shipped so I figured I would be a guinea pig. Well made part that feels like OEM and doesn't leak. Level sensor even works properly.
The front brakes were getting pretty bad, so I did the Astrovan rotor swap. O'Reilly Auto turned down an old set of rotors to make the hubs and I went with Navy Lifer's wisdom and used regular J55 calipers. The production tolerances on the cheap Astro rotors are terrible. I had to carry the hubs back to have them cut down more because one rotor had a much smaller inner diameter than the other and one rotor is nearly a quarter of an inch smaller in outer diameter than the other. All in all, it was pretty straight forward and the car stops straight, smoothly, and quietly again. I was looking over the Roadmaster parts car and noticed it had a fast ratio steering box, so I pulled it off, got it cleaned up and painted for installation next week.
Nothing exciting - just clean, clean and clean some more which made me and the shop very dirty (and my entire upper body sore!).
Also got the rear end pulled out and prepped for sandblasting
It's got a bit of rust on the rear inner wheelwell. Any suggestions on the best way to fix this while I have everything apart?
Next up is pulling the fuel tank and doing the same "cleaning" all the way back. Hopefully that will go a bit faster as not having the crossmember to deal with and all it's little nooks and crannies.
Then welding up a rear crossmember and hitch will probably take another weekend along with some panel repairs above.
Probably a weekends worth of painting and troubleshooting/calibrating the fuel level sensor.
Should figure out what I want to do with the rear brakes before I paint/install as well as the air bags in case they need any modification to frame/axle.
I keep thinking I'm close but all these little things keep adding up. Gives me more time to find a wheel I like
My former wagon had a similar rust issue that included some holes and a wet floor. I took care of it by grinding away the major rust and filling every thing with body filler that had long strand fiberglass in it. Not the best plan for a car one cares about but I just wanted to stop the water from getting in.