Had another productive weekend on the wagon...
Using 95wagon's idea, I built a caster measuring fixture. Top ball joint is 1/2-20, bottom "5/8" ball joint is really M16x1.25. I didn't have a M16x1.25 nut, but you can run a tap through a 5/8-18 nut and it works just fine (no significant load being applied here). Basically thread the whole collapsed assembly on the lower ball joint stud and then unthread the top part of the fixture until it grabs on to the upper stud. Turn both until snug and then clock the box tube so it's facing forward to put the digital angle finder on.
Simple in concept, but it took a few hours of work to get both nuts coaxial to each other and centered in the tube. This would be much easier with a mill/lathe instead of a vice and sawzall

, but that's what I had at my disposal.
So, with this new tool and the T-bars previously posted, I was able to get Caster, Camber, Toe and Bump Steer all documented and dialed in. Not particularly hard work, but tedious.
The car was supported on the center cross member with blocks which allowed the suspension to fully extend, no springs installed so it was easy to articulate the suspension. Blocks were used to set each wheel at ride height. I got caster/camber/toe dialed in at ride height, then removed/added shims and repeated all the measurements to simulate various amounts of wheel travel (compression and extension of the suspension). Below are the results of the first run.
About a year ago (April/May 2019) I made a new center link since I had over 4" of bump steer just from ride height to full extension. I wanted to check bump steer on the new setup and since it's adjustable, make any adjustments. There's a significant improvement in bump steer from the first iteration, but still seems like a lot. Since I didn't know where things needed to be adjusted, I put everything in the middle of it's adjustment range. For the next trial, I pushed the inner tie rods up as far as I could (put all the shims on the bottom). This moved the inner tie rods up ~1/4" which has a significant effect on bump steer.
I'd move it a bit more, but am already very close to the oil pan with the centerlink. I thought I had "plenty" of room when I built it, but might need to move it some more because I'm sure the engine will hit at some point...
Anyway, the results are much improved. Is there a "recommended" amount of bump steer to have? Are the below numbers good enough? I don't have any reference to compare to so am just trying to minimize it as much as I can.
I was very pleased that having basically zero camber with no load on the suspension resulted in an equal -0.5 degrees of camber once it was setting on the coilovers. The minor toe adjustment is due to the fact that its setting about 1" higher than the "zero" height above. I'll still take it to an alignment shop and have them do it "right", but wanted to be able to do this myself to get it pretty close and be able to do the bump steer analysis. I had to repeat a few measurements and everything came out within 0.1 degrees and 1/16 of an inch or less - most were right on.
I also was able to get the new rear end cover installed - needs longer bolts, but it's in place and looks like it will clear. I went to put the fuel tank in and install the new straps that I purchased from Rock Auto. Unfortunately, there must be some differences in straps because the ones I received are a few inches too long. The tank can be moved up/down 4-5 inches and side to side all the way to the frame rails, forward and back 3-4 inches. Frustrating...
I can easily stick my hand on top and touch the fuel pump cover/lines from the back.
It looks like I ordered the bottom one instead of the wagon one (middle) which must be for a sedan instead of wagon. So, now to decide if I clean up my old ones or buy the wagon ones. The Liland ones were powder coated black and the others are bare steel. I'll probably just order the bare steel ones for $34 and paint them myself. Will still be cheaper/easier than cleaning and painting my existing ones.
Cleaned a bunch of stuff out from in/on/under the car and put it in storage, found that I need a new battery. The brand new one is leaking acid and has never left the shop

.
Got the front swaybar end link spacers rough cut to length - will finish them on the lathe this week sometime. They need to be an inch longer since the frame mounting location is lower from the brace that was installed. Otherwise the tie rod end hits the swaybar which won't end well.
Finished installing the exhaust
Should check pinion angle
Need to install rear swaybar
Getting the bumper and hitch ready to go to the galvanizing shop so they can finally be installed.
Ordering the remaining wheels/tires so it will look cool instead of the 31x10.5x15 All Terrain truck tires it's been wearing
I should probably spend a day touching every nut, bolt, fitting, adjustment before driving it because there are so many things that could easily be forgotten.
Probably another couple weekends of little details like the above yet before it's actually out on the road - but I see light at the end of this (loooonnng) tunnel!!!