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Finally back to working on the wagons...

On the 1994
  • Took the snow tires off and put the all seasons on
  • Fiddled with the rear brakes to see if they can be more consistent (not really)
  • Greased the front end components
  • Checked the fluid levels
  • Gave it a bath


On the 1996
  • Checked the toe - it looks off visually, but measures good. Checked the fixtures I made and they're good, re-checked toe and still good. Must be an optical illusion
  • Found a place for underhood power distribution and relays for the horn and other future accessories since I'm not de-soldering the board shown a few posts above
  • Got quotes for 45 tooth ABS hubs. I need to just pull the trigger on these and get it done.
  • Updated my "open items" and "things to order" list
  • Installed the Crank Case Vent Oil Drain Line from the CCV to the Oil Pan. There's a steering shaft in the way of the original routing shown in the picture below so I ended up re-routing the line so it goes below the valve cover to the front of the exhaust manifold and then down instead of outside the manifold. No pictures of it in the car - can't see it :)



I found my multi-meter which saves me ~$400 for buying a new one!

Spring and de-salted roads are near, so I better get this finished up.
 

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On the 1994 Roadmaster Wagon
- Smelled gasoline for the last couple weeks when it was running. Found the vent tube hose at the front of the tank had rusted/split generally turned to crap. Remove the hose, which had turned to a piece of carbon black. Replaced it with a new one. When I went to fill up, loosened the gas cap and heard a big sucking sound so it must have sealed up properly :).

- Sometime this winter, the ice must have broken one of the washer clips so it was pointing at the bottom of the windshield. Zip-tied it to the wiper arm - simple/easy fix.


On the 1996 Roadmaster Wagon
  • Painted the CCV oil drain tube from the above post and re-installed
  • Sat down for ~4 hours this morning and wrote out the inputs/outputs and control logic for the wipers - This won't be a walk in the park, but it's not climbing Everest either
  • Measured a few electrical things to validate the above
  • Installed a pair of horns from an 80's caprice - Definitely a hack job, but functional until I get the underhood fuse block work done
  • As mentioned a few posts back (2455), the underhood fuse block looked to be more than I wanted to tackle...but upon further inspection of the donor block, there are over a dozen loose terminals on the board. Kind of like a loose tooth when you were a kid - you can move the terminal back forth easily, but not quite pull it out. Some of the loose terminals power things like the PCM so not really something you want to be loose. So...I guess I'm going to do some de-soldering and re-soldering to make sure this isn't a potential failure point in the future, and as long as I'm in there (famous last words :)) I'll populate the unused fuse/relay/wire terminals so as not to have to add any more auxiliary wiring. There are at least 9 relays and as many/more fuses that are unused, so I'll document and populate as much as I can while it's apart so any future applications can just have the wires added to the connector.
 

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My tach was running 150 rpm high, so I swapped in a different cluster. The donor cluster tach is right on the money, but the speedo was off, and the odos did not run. I set my signal modifier to speed up the speedometer, and took the back off to find the odos were not hooked up. While installing the dash face, I chipped the support, and had to use some JB Weld to make it work. I finally got it together.

Another goofy issue came up...I replaced the rear trailing arm bushings, and the right front arm popped off the front bushing. I got it fixed, and put a couple of tack welds on it to keep it in place.

I must get my AC working again, and a couple of small items done as well as giving it as a thorough cleaning for the Daytona car show next weekend.
 

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Not too much this weekend...

On the 1994:
  • Changed oil - Put 0w20 in to see if it helps the MPG's any
  • Looked for a leak on the evap system - didn't find one. A couple weeks ago I fixed the broken hose on the fuel vent line back at the gas tank. For the next few fillups, when I would unscrew the gas cap, there was a huge sucking sound that it never made before. Then when I filled up this morning and again this afternoon, no more sucking sound when removing the cap. Not sure if this is normal or not?

On the 1996:
- Mocked up some airbags on the rear end to see how well they might work - still TBD, but clearance wise they're good around the exhaust and everything else.



 

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Gave it a bath - and replaced the LP switch on the accumulator to get the ac back online. Glad it was an easy fix.
 

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On the 1994...
  • Replaced all the steering linkage - tie rod ends, sleeves, center link and idler. Nice to have a direct connection between the steering wheel and the front wheels now :)
  • Bled/flushed the brakes at all corners - probably used 1/2 gallon of brake fluid before it cleared up and was bled. Finally have rear brakes now too which is also nice. Guessing there was some air in there?
  • Sucked out and re-filled power steering fluid as well - another 1/2 gallon of fluid used. Not clear yet, but much better than the black coffee that was in both the power steering and brakes!
  • Made list of items to get so brake lines can be replaced (wheel cylinders, hoses, etc)

On the 1996...
  • Measured the current on the digital inputs to the BCM for the wiper "converter" system that's coming
  • Measured the parasitic drain on the battery - Was ~7mA but seems to have jumped up to ~11mA recently. Only able to let it sit ~30 minutes so maybe it did this before and drops down to 7mA after a longer period of time?
 

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Well, I'm a ways behind FixUntilBroke, and am doing it in a much dumber way, but I'm also swapping a Duramax into a Roadmaster wagon. If you want to catch up so far:

This week I dropped the video on my first attempt at re-using and modifying the truck mounts for the Duramax in the B-body frame. I wasn't very happy with the results:

FixUntilBroke went a much smarter way - modifying the B-body steering and crossmember, then lifting the body. I'm doing it the dumb way - cutting out the front 1/4 of the B-body frame, switching to a C5 Corvette front-end, and chopping the floor out, while not lifting the body. We'll see how this goes!
 
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