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Had a busy week...

Started by pulling an empty trailer for a good friend to borrow.


Then installed some Membrane insulation/sound deadening material on the roof


Adjusted the throttle pedal angle/position relative to the brake pedal - was a bit too high and had to pull my foot back a bit when transitioning from the brake to throttle. Now can just pivot my foot from one to the other.

Adjusted the rear sway bar again since it was bumping the front of the gas tank. Also loosened straps on the gas tank and pushed it back and right to gain a bit of clearance to the frame on the left side. Hopefully it stays there.

Cleaned the glass inside and out which made a big difference.

Then pulled a loaded trailer (~1200lb) and returned with a different load - Averaged 26.15 MPG with the trailer and learned that the tank will take 21.6 gallons and still run :). Dash fuel consumption and MPG is ~4% optimistic over the last ~7 fillups. Not sure if/how this can be adjusted, but at least I know what it is which is handy since the fuel gauge still has a mind of it's own.


Of all the things I've had apart on this car, the back seats are not one of them, so pulled them out and gave a good cleaning. Nothing too major hidden back there, found $0.45 which was nice :).


Removed more of the rear interior, more cleaning and added Membrane to the left quarter area. Ran out and ordered 2 more boxes. Hopefully it arrives for this coming weekend. Went for a short drive to the grocery store while it was raining with the interior just like the below picture (both sides look like this) - holy crap, it sounded like I was driving under Niagara Falls! Nothing leaking, but wow, lots of road/water/tire noise.


Celebrated the 8th birthday of this project. Drove it in the shop on 05 July 2014 and disassembled a perfectly good running car :). 8 years later, not sure if it's any better or not, but it's running :).
 

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Make sure you did not adjust the gas pedal to the point where it hits the floor/carpet and does not give you full throttle. I had to raise mine, because it hit the floor before my linkage fully opened the butterflies on my 454 fuel injection system.
 

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We're good there - Can still pull a piece of paper out from under the pedal at full throttle. With the shape/geometry of the electronic pedal assembly, moving the tip of the pedal 1/2" doesn't change much at the pivot points or where it touches the floor. The tip of the pedal just compresses the carpet a bit at full throttle.




Make sure you did not adjust the gas pedal to the point where it hits the floor/carpet and does not give you full throttle. I had to raise mine, because it hit the floor before my linkage fully opened the butterflies on my 454 fuel injection system.
 

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GoremanX, you should not try to "top it up" to the max, it will overflow into your evap canister, and cause trouble. It is supposed to be a 22 gallon tank, so you overfilled it.

F.U.B. I had no idea that you have an electronic gas pedal, I assumed that it was a stock unit until told otherwise.
 

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Of all the things I've had apart on this car, the back seats are not one of them, so pulled them out and gave a good cleaning. Nothing too major hidden back there, found $0.45 which was nice :).
Who says it doesn't pay to clean your car. :p
 

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Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Steering part Steering wheel


Slowly bringing my 96 RMW back to life after sitting for a couple of years. Got an email from a local U-Pull-it lot about the addition of a 96 sedan. Turned out the interior was in pretty good shape, I was able to harvest a lot of the interior plastic and a steering wheel. Unfortunately the dash and door panels were unusable.

I was so tired of my old beat steering wheel. I was able to clean up the replacement and rewrap the leather.
 

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Wheel looks good. What is the consul from? Looks like it's a pretty close fit.
 

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On the 96, decided to tackle the spare tire well rust so I can continue to install the sound damping/insulation material...Guessing this is pretty typical of many wagons...



The "while I'm here" bug started to crawl up my leg...can I fit a 31" diameter spare tire in the stock spare tire well?
I found a suitable sized spare exactly 31" diameter and less than 8" wide - LT 235/85/16 compared to the stock 225/75/15


I went as far as to cut out a 31" diameter cardboard template to see what would need to be done to make it fit, and it's pretty extensive - more than I'm willing to do at this point in the project, so SHOO, go away. We'll stay with the stock size spare - if a rear tire goes flat, I'll have to put the spare on the front and put one of the good front tires on the back.

Cut out the rusty area into good solid metal...


Prep the edges both top and bottom


The patch is ~1/2" bigger than the hole...


Welded up - The welds were roughly ground down.


The new panel and surrounding area scuffed and any loose paint/undercoating removed, then cleaned with solvent and painted. I'll get some undercoat on the outside, and some paint on the inside one of these days... I'll try to get some pictures of the "finished" product this week. Not too fancy, but nicer than the home depot duct work that the previous owner used on the 94 RMW :).

Bunch of other little things again...

Balanced all 4 tires - either moved or removed at least 2oz of weight on each tire. Smoother now, particularly at higher speeds.

Found some loose body mounts - tightened them up. That was a mistake (vibrations) - loosened them back up

Replaced rear seal on the transmission - still leaks :(. Checked transmission fluid - still full

Adjusted rear drum brakes up another 3 notches

While the spare tire/jack was out, I made sure that the jack would lift the car up high enough to get a rear tire out from the wheel well - It does, however the lug wrench doesn't fit in the holes in the wheel, so will need to get a solution for that (likely a harbor freight breaker bar and 3/4" socket). For now I'll keep the cordless impact/socket in the car.

Last three trips with have returned 28.3, 28.7 and 27.8 MPG, so it might be time to put in the 50HP tune and see if the MPG improves any.

Had a couple no crank events and an airbag light for one day, then gone the next. Scanner says anti-theft wasn't happy and the SIR system lost CAN communications. Kind of strange - There are a few other wiring related things that need to be changed, so will look for anything that could cause these issues at that point.
 

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I'm pretty sure most of the B bodies still around have rust somewhere.
 

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These are getting to be antiques, and the 93s will fall into that category this fall. The only cars of that age that do not have rust have been kept in garaged collections. Both of mine have some rust in those and other areas. Fixing it is part of caring for them, and keeping the cars alive for future generations.
 

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Good evening fellow Waggoners, I finally returned from Korea and back to my baby. I decided to replace my 150lb AGM battery bank with a all lithium bank. Way lighter(15lbs) and about 5x more power, I had to up the voltage on my dual alts to run at 15.4v. But over the best decision I made, now it's time to get to working back on the heavy.
 

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Good evening fellow Waggoners, I finally returned from Korea and back to my baby. I decided to replace my 150lb AGM battery bank with a all lithium bank. Way lighter(15lbs) and about 5x more power, I had to up the voltage on my dual alts to run at 15.4v. But over the best decision I made, now it's time to get to working back on the heavy.
Glad I got my OG account back, but this is me
 

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It's been a long time since I was last here.

Last summer the water pump drive stripped out and I said "hell with it" and drove it back home. Overheating boiling mess by the time I made the 3 mile trip. Didn't hurt the 225K engine in the slightest. So rather than search for and install a new drive I put an EWP in a new housing and it works great.



Other than new front brakes/rotors and a radiator a few months ago I have just been driving the piss out of it.

Thought about selling it, realized that was stupid and stripped the interior for a new stereo system and roof rack hole welding party.

Double DIN kit from Etchus JVC receiver. Also doing an amp, all new speakers, 12s. LED bulbs for everything. Back up Camera. Dash Cam, etc.



New 140 Alt because mine was originally a small alt car. Vette Starter. Made my own battery cables since the innovative website disappeared, it was cheaper so I would have done it anyways.



Got tired of my pcv pipe and hockey puck. Replaced with a K&N CAI and a Camaro elbow. Dorman makes them brand new so I got one for less than what some ask for a used part.



Also grabbed some new muffs to install and the last item was as close to being given away by Amazon as I could find so I couldn't pass it up



 

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It's been a long time since I was last here.

Last summer the water pump drive stripped out and I said "hell with it" and drove it back home. Overheating boiling mess by the time I made the 3 mile trip. Didn't hurt the 225K engine in the slightest. So rather than search for and install a new drive I put an EWP in a new housing and it works great.



Other than new front brakes/rotors and a radiator a few months ago I have just been driving the piss out of it.

Thought about selling it, realized that was stupid and stripped the interior for a new stereo system and roof rack hole welding party.

Double DIN kit from Etchus JVC receiver. Also doing an amp, all new speakers, 12s. LED bulbs for everything. Back up Camera. Dash Cam, etc.



New 140 Alt because mine was originally a small alt car. Vette Starter. Made my own battery cables since the innovative website disappeared, it was cheaper so I would have done it anyways.



Got tired of my pcv pipe and hockey puck. Replaced with a K&N CAI and a Camaro elbow. Dorman makes them brand new so I got one for less than what some ask for a used part.



Also grabbed some new muffs to install and the last item was as close to being given away by Amazon as I could find so I couldn't pass it up



Since you do not have a pulley drive for the water pump, and your stock accessory drive works off of the crank, it is easy to swap to an electric pump on an LT1. GM should have done that from the git-go. Less BS to break.
 
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Since you do not have a pulley drive for the water pump, and your stock accessory drive works off of the crank, it is easy to swap to an electric pump on an LT1. GM should have done that from the git-go. Less BS to break.
That's the truth. Hard to find a quality replacement these days and the bearings always wear out in a couple of years.
 
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