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Repaired the tailgate this evening. A while back the linkage inside broke so the gate would only swing open and not fold down. I found a speed nut in my collection of random stuff that was the right size to fit the rod. The tailgate once again is fully operational.





I also replace the six broken plastic clips that hold the interior panel on, still have to find some screws to replace the missing ones on the sides.
 

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1993 RMW, 1996 RMW, 1992 OCC
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My 96 RMW is my daily driver until they start salting the roads, at which point it hibernates until next spring. While its transmission was getting rebuilt last week, my 93 RMW took over daily driving duty. My 92 OCC mostly just sleeps these days until I can find time to pull the engine out of it.

I use my wagons for a volunteer gig driving temporary migrant farm workers to/from doctors' appointments. Sometimes they're very badly injured and have almost no mobility, they really appreciate the ease of entry/exit, all the space, and the very cushy ride.
 

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Drive mine every day for work. I keep my tools in the back, and I like that the wagon sits lower than a truck or SUV, makes getting stuff in and out much easier, since I'm getting older. The tailgate can be a little fickle opening/ closing it, but knock on wood, it works great.
 

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On my 3rd walbro 450 and all three took a crap with in 12k miles, I'm tired of dropping the tank. I went to the junkyard and picked up an extra tank, so I'm in the process of set this tank up for a inline fuel pump.
Automotive tire Hood Vehicle Motor vehicle Bumper

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Good luck with that. You will probably have pickup issues when you change directions/speeds.
 

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Been a while since I've updated this - nothing major to report (this is good!).

- The A/C suddenly stopped working. Was fine when I pulled it into the shop, 6 hours later when I backed out - no A/C, so it went back into the shop. Since it was such a sudden change, I assumed it was an electrical issue, likely with the solid state relay that I assembled as part of the engine swap.


Time was getting short so I wired in an override to the BCM to force the compressor on. Clip the black wire on the screwdriver shank when you want A/C, remove when you don't. If you let the compressor run too long, the airflow goes down because the evaporator freezes up (no low side switch in the circuit anymore :)). Better than no A/C at all!


Well, it turned out to be electrical, but not my homemade relay. Low side switch wasn't closed because it was low on refrigerant (doh!). Holds 0.8kg, recovery machine took out 0.38kg so a bit less than 50% charge remaining. My thought is that the automatic climate control was compensating for a weakening A/C system so I didn't notice any changes, but once the compressor wouldn't turn on anymore then no cooling at all. Added some dye, re-charged to 0.8kg and all was well, for a while...

About 3 days later, no A/C again - Either my leak was getting bigger or something else was wrong. Recovered the system again, this time removed 0.76kg so the leak wasn't the issue, must be something else. Current (pun intended) thought is that the wire between the BCM and low side switch has an intermittent connection somewhere. When the system is working, I'll have 12v at the low side switch, when the system is not working, no 12v, but there is 12v at the BCM via the alligator jumpers shown above. This circuit just grounds a 12v sourcing input to the BCM with a ~6k ohm pullup resistor so it has ~2mA of current. I wiggled wires a bunch but couldn't make it change so will need to put a larger load on it and either find the break or run a new wire. It's been working as designed (no jumpers needed) for the last ~3 weeks and worked as designed for the first 2 months so we'll see how it goes. No signs of any dye leaking out anywhere either yet.

Another mysterious electrical problem was resolved - Each morning/evening, when you crank the engine it would just bump the starter and then turn off. Cycle the key and it would fire up every time. If it was "warm" it would usually crank over no problem. Had a few theft codes, but didn't seem right with the intermittent nature of it. The transmission would occasionally go into neutral then back into drive (really fast) on it's own while driving down the road. Just a couple times. Volt meter on the dash would read 15v, then suddenly drop to ~12v, then back up, etc. Just weird stuff. One day when leaving work, went to start it and it bumped the starter and then everything went black - no dash, no courtesy lights, nothing. Popped the hood and started looking for "something" - happened to touch one of the ground wires going to the battery and saw the hood light flicker - Dug a little deeper and found that the battery disconnect that I had installed was likely the cause of all these mysterious issues. Kind of disappointed in the quality of these things, but for $8 delivered, my expectations are probably too high. The knob was tight - I would regularly check/tighten it, but since removing it, there have been zero electrical issues so with that and the obvious arcing on the disconnect, I'm confident the issue has been found and resolved.


Have been chasing a shake issue at higher speeds (>60MPH). Re-balanced the tires back in July which helped (moved no less than 2oz of weight on each wheel), but it has come back. Re-balanced again, this time using a lug centric mounting on the balancer instead of hub centric - also moved a bunch of weight around on all the wheels again, no change on the car. Will try a road force balance this coming weekend to see if there's a tire with a pull or something in it.

Speaking of tires, I think I need to drop down to something ~30" in diameter instead of 31" so looking at a 255/50/20 or a 235/55/20 instead of the 255/55/20's that are on there now. By the time get the front bump stops where they need to be to prevent the springs from going solid, the extra 1/2" of room will make a big difference. Interestingly, the 235/55/20's have the exact same tread width as the 255/55/20's Not sure how those will fit on the 9" wide rims. I've a set of 2.73's from a 1/2 ton truck that I'd put in the rear end if I did go with the shorter tire.

I've run the stock, +50 HP and now +100 HP tunes in it for a few thousand miles each (have 8500+ miles on it so far). All of them drive the same, the 100HP might be the slightest more responsive, but otherwise un-noticable in normal driving around. More power at the bottom of the pedal travel. We'll put a few more weeks on the 100HP tune and then go to the +150HP and see what that's like.

MPG's have not changed with any of the tunes so far. Running just a touch over 30 (30.37) on 11) 250 mile trips across all the tunes running ~125 miles at 70MPH and ~125 miles at 60MPH. Suburban driving back and forth to work, errands, etc is running 25.5 MPG. Cold starts are really hard on MPG's, if you're doing a lot of short trips, it'll be in the low 20's.

The steering response is really good, very flat, minimal roll - pleased with that. Dampers are set to full soft on compression and 5 clicks in from full soft on rebound (out of ~18 clicks). No oscillations, decent ride. Sharp bumps are still more harsh than I'd like them to be, but they're not "bad" by any means..

Spent some time looking for OEM radio's to replace the one I have - would like to find one with both cassette and CD. Have pulled a few from the junkyard, but need to dig into them for specifics.

There's a noticeable "tsst, tsst, tsst" sound that sounds like it's coming from the drivers firewall/footwell area that I can't seem to track down. Not super loud, but sounds like an exhaust leak which I can't seem to find or figure out where it's coming from. Not a big deal, but would like to figure it out.

Lastly, found a late 90's Park Avenue Ultra that I was able to rob all 4 horns from as well as the 3 shield hood ornament which I greatly prefer over the solid "Collectors Edition" that seems to be standard on all the 96 RMW's. Need to find a location and relays for the horns, but hopefully that will give the audible presence that a car this size deserves :).


That's about it - there's a long list of things to do. Could probably spend all winter on it working on all the little things, but for now just driving it every day. Gets a lot of looks, smiles, thumbs up, etc which is nice :).
 

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Yeah I thought about that, but it's the same with the in tank pump when the fuel is below 1/4 tank. I don't let my car get below 1/2 tank, but I'll definitely keep that in mind.
If you are flush with money, look at the Holley Hydramat.
 

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1993 RMW, 1996 RMW, 1992 OCC
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Lastly, found a late 90's Park Avenue Ultra that I was able to rob all 4 horns from as well as the 3 shield hood ornament which I greatly prefer over the solid "Collectors Edition" that seems to be standard on all the 96 RMW's.
That's what I put on my '93 RMW (it was broken off when I bought the car), and it looks way better than the "Collector's Edition" medallion on my '96. I'm thinking of getting another one to do the same on my '96.

Good luck with that. You will probably have pickup issues when you change directions/speeds.
I've noticed that my '93 is very prone to G-induced fuel starvation when the tank gets below 1/4, but my '96 has no such issues. Is there a reason for that? Did they change something in the tank of later models to address the issue?
 

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... my '93 is very prone to G-induced fuel starvation when the tank gets below 1/4, but my '96 has no such issues ... Did they change something in the tank of later models to address the issue?
How similar are the physical arrangements of the '93 & '96 fuel tanks, specifically, comparing the fuel pumps' vulnerability to G-induced fuel starvation?

My guess as to why your '96 does not have this issue:
when your '93 & your '96 fuel gauges both say the same - say, between 20% & 24%, but the same -
either the '93 fuel pump is more susceptible to fuel starvation due to the pump & tank shape,
or the '93 fuel gauge is slightly more optimistic than the '96 gauge
or the '96 fuel gauge is slightly more pessimistic than the '93 gauge

Have you made any electrical adjustments to adjust the amount of fuel displayed by either gauge?

I've suffered G- induced starvation in several Caprice sedans and wagons (as a Stuart's taxi driver).
Regardless of whether it was an L05, L99, or LT1, my experiences indicates:
Under 6 gallons? Take it easy on the Gs.
 

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1993 RMW, 1996 RMW, 1992 OCC
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In this case, I'm gauging emptiness on how much fuel I need to put in, not what the gauge says. I've run my '93 down to where I needed 18 gallons to fill it, and it was stalling on highway on-ramps until the car stabilized. I've run my '96 down to where I needed 21+ gallons to fill it, and it never stalled once.
 

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That's what I put on my '93 RMW (it was broken off when I bought the car), and it looks way better than the "Collector's Edition" medallion on my '96. I'm thinking of getting another one to do the same on my '96.


I've noticed that my '93 is very prone to G-induced fuel starvation when the tank gets below 1/4, but my '96 has no such issues. Is there a reason for that? Did they change something in the tank of later models to address the issue?
They may have redesigned the sump in the center of the tank. They also put a bottom hugging sender unit in the later models. It is spring loaded to follow the bottom of the tank if it ever bulges from internal pressure. I made a custom unit for my 454 because the pump has a bulge on the bottom, and I do not have any noticeable issues with slosh except at ultra low levels.
 
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In this case, I'm gauging emptiness on how much fuel I need to put in, not what the gauge says.
I've run my '93 down to where I needed 18 gallons to fill it, and it was stalling on highway on-ramps until the car stabilized.
I've run my '96 down to where I needed 21+ gallons to fill it, and it never stalled once.
For whatever it's worth, I do find it interesting and impressive that you ran down your '96 so low and still did not stall.
I've momentarily stalled several '91-'96 sedans and wagons in the middle of long offramps.
I wish I'd been able to improve the accuracy of my guess beyond 'under 6 gallons'.
I was probably estimating conservatively to oversimplify and to leave a safety margin.
 

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1993 RMW, 1996 RMW, 1992 OCC
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My 96's gas gauge is weird. On road trips where I do all highway (I've done about 6000 miles of that this summer), I typically get 140 to 160 miles before the needle hits the F line. This is more like 120 miles for local driving. By the time I hit the 3/4 line, I've actually used half the tank. That means that the accuracy of the gauge from that point is quite high, and I've been able to figure out exactly how many gallons I have left in there based on which tick mark the needle is pointing to. About a month ago I filled up with almost exactly 22 gallons, and that was just letting it fill to the first click-off, not trying to cram more in. I do slowly release the trigger as I hear it reach the top, but I never try to top-off after first click. That was a tank where I did over 500 miles.

My 93's gas gauge is all over the map. I guess based on miles driven. That car averages 12-13mpg 😳😳😳
 
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