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Discussion Starter #1
I have been running two 10W3 D2's in a sealed box. It hit hard for about 18 months. One blew this past weekend and it sounds like the other is warn out. Question is, what subs should I run? I am looking at a set of Kicker 10" L5's at 2 ohms, will the JL amp push enough into these speakers? I know you don't want to under power them. I have heard it both ways, it isn't enough power and on the other had that they will do just fine. Thought?
Thanks,
 
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Discussion Starter #2
Interesting thing about JL Audio amps... they don't much care the ohms...

My 250/1 puts out 250W at 4ohms, at 2ohms, it'd do it at 3 if you somehow got the load wired up that way.

I'd assume the 500/1 runs the same way (exact same power output from 1.5-4 Ohms)
 
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I have a 500/1 and a 10W6v2 sitting here in boxes waiting to be installed. Might end up with a second W6; think the amp would be enough for two of them? I like SQ more than SPL, but want to be able to turn it up sometimes. :D
 
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Discussion Starter #4
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Saltpeter9:
I have been running two 10W3 D2's in a sealed box. It hit hard for about 18 months. One blew this past weekend and it sounds like the other is warn out. Question is, what subs should I run? I am looking at a set of Kicker 10" L5's at 2 ohms, will the JL amp push enough into these speakers? I know you don't want to under power them. I have heard it both ways, it isn't enough power and on the other had that they will do just fine. Thought?
Thanks,
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


have you heard the L5's before? Friend had a 15 in a sealed box with about 300W (mighta been 500...can't remember) and it was honestly the worst sounding sub i've ever heard. his box was built to spec as well...had alot of output on the lower bass notes around 40Hz, but was quite muddy and lacked impact.

what kind of budget are you on? There are plenty of subs that will sound much nicer and get as loud or louder than the L5 without spending a ton of money. Also, what kind of box are you putting them in? need to know internal volume...if you don't know just measure the box and post the dimensions here. Also, is it a common chamber box or seperate chambers?

holla back...picking subs is fun
 
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Discussion Starter #5
I built the box for the the speakers I already mentioned. The inside dimensions are as follows. 15"x12.5"x6.75", I work that out to be about .72 cubic ft. Anyway, budget has to be reasonable. The box is a dual chamber, sealed box. I was happy as hell with what I had, but damn, I don't want to replace them every year and a half or so.

Cheers!
 
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Hrmm, my gut feel is that a pair of L5's would want more than what a single 500/1 could give. It will probably drive those, but I don't think they will be at or even near their best.

If you're looking at Kicker, I would think that a pair of Comp VRs would be a better match to that AMP than a pair of L5's. I don't know if you would really want to go L5 anyway if you are more interested in SQ. I think the Comp VRs will be better at SQ than the L5, even thought they are a step down from the L5.

It is too bad those JL 10W3's aren't working out for you anymore. Do you think they were being underpowered? I have always thought of the Comp VRs as being in the same league as the JL 10W3, thought the JL may have a slight edge for SQ.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
I don't know if I am under powering them or not. I really don't know what happened, and why they blew. I was listening to the other one today, and it is worn out. I'm not looking for any particular brand. I just want something that is going to last a bit longer. Subs aren't cheap, and to replace them every 18 or so months, I can't handle that.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Ya know Kicker has a new L7. The 12" can handle up to 750w rms. Just get one and hook it up mono to that 500w amp. Should hit hard with the right box. I'm running 2 12" Punch HX2's and I'm happy. But my last set up had 1 15" Cerwin Vega stroker with a Soundstream 700w amp and it hit harder than my pair of 12"s now. :rolleyes:
 
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Discussion Starter #9
kicker squares sound pretty bad compared to many many other subs, especially at higher volumes. do yourself a favor and run with the compVR's if you really want to run kicker...not a bad sub


also, how did you set the gain on your amp? There are only two ways to blow a sub...

mechanically: occurs when the sub is forced to move farther than the suspension can handle. This leads to torn surrounds, misaligned voice coils, ripped/seperated spiders, and other types of damage from physical stress

thermally: occurs when too much power is driven into the voice coil (the coil of wire that rests in the magnetic gap that carries the current from the amp). If too much power is applied the voice coil will get too hot and the glue will melt or the wires will physically burn up. This is why a sub smells burnt when you blow it up this way :( a larger voice coil usually indicates more power handling...but there's also factors such as how many layers on the coil, what kind of material is used (copper, aluminum, etc), and how well the voice coil is vented for better cooling.

if you want cheap subs that will work great on lower power and last a while...

Kicker CompVR's (as mentioned)

IDQ 10's (lil more expensive...think around $150 locally)

Elemental Design e10k's ($110 per+shipping, 3 year warranty, flat cone, 325W RMS, blah blah. one bad thing, new production models so they won't be ready until after June 1st)

Memphis Power Reference or Studio 10's (200W RMS, perfect for your amp. we sell em for $80 for the PR's and $100 for the Studio's...if i remember right)

there's more but i don't know your budget
so i just listed the ones on the lower price range but are still great subs (good to great performance, especially for the price)
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Elemental,

I don't remember how the gain is set, I know it isn't maxed out, and the sub doesn't smell burnt.

How should you set the gain?

Like I said, the system sounded awesome. I took it to a stereo shop in VA that sold JL and he couldn't believe how good everything sounded (bass that is) I do need better mids and highs, but all in all, it wasn't to shabby at all. I must be doing something wrong, I don't think the subs I had in there should have blown.

Oh yeah, the one that is blown will work if you push the cone it, of coures not well, but it does move when I do this. That is why I was thinking it was under powered.

Cheers!
 
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Discussion Starter #11
when you push on a cone and the speaker starts to play again, that's an indicator of a bad connection in the voice coil...can be reconed (depending on what sub, how old, and from who) or you can buy a new one.

as for how to set the gain on your amp for the subs...

buy a bass disc that has test tones on it, not sweeps, but constant tones at different frequencies. Bass Mekanik has alot of CD's like this. don't use "V5.0", the test tones on it require you to use an RCA splitter because one channel gets say 50Hz and the other 50.5Hz so it will warble if you play them in stereo. "Quad Maximus" will work as will the SPL disc on "Sonic Overload". i haven't heard the new disc so i can't comment...

SPL Shootout (USACi competition disc) is a very good choice as well, or any of the competition organization's test discs


anyway...turn the gain all the way down on the amp, set your bass on your HU to zero (flat), play about a 45Hz test tone (that's what i use usually...) at 3/4 to 2/3 volume. Don't set it with the volume all the way up since some head units will distort the signal at full volume, the distortion is then sent to the amp and amplified making it even worse. not all HU's do this, but some do

as the tone is playing (might want to select "track repeat" if your HU has it) slowly turn up the gain until you hear distortion in the subs and then back off a hair so that the distortion goes away. Viola! all done


similar procedure for highs...although it's harder to tell exactly when they're distorting if it's a high powered system.

do not turn up the bass boost on the amp, be sure the xover is set to low-pass, and have fun! you can adjust the bass response up or down a notch or two on the HU if it needs it since some recordings are recorded at different levels and alot of radio stations need boosting.

just remember, the gain is NOT a volume control on the amp. just because it's not all the way up does not mean the amp is not putting out full power. all the gain does is match the output level of the amp to the input level of the HU. That way when your HU is putting out maximum voltage through the RCA's to your amp, the amp is then producing maximum power.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
the square solobarics really suck?
i'm suprised by that. really?
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Simple way to set the gain:

Turn of any loudness contours on your head unit and turn bass and treble to zero. Set gain on amps to low. Set volume on HU to max. Adjust gain up on your highs amp until it starts to distort. Back off just a touch. Turn up gain on sub amp until you get the right amount of bass. Set your levels how you like 'em. Enjoy.

And I always liked the square kickers. I would be hard pressed to turn them down in favor of the CompVRs. JMO
 
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Discussion Starter #14
How do you have the subs wired up in parallel which will give you the 2ohm setting or series which makes them 4ohm?
 
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