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Discussion Starter #1
While removing the front wheel, I have noticed a strange pin going through a hole in lower control arm. It is attached to what I believe is stabilizer shaft.

The manual shows a bolt attached to the control arm. Is this what a bolt looks like now after it lost a nut??
 

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Close. It's what the bolt looks like after the bottom rots and snaps completely off. Part houses sell complete stab bar bushing kits, but most there will be 'performance' harder red urethane. OEM softer and quieter rubber can be mail-ordered. Get a replacement set with the same sleeve length as existing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks. RockAuto sells stabilizer shaft links complete with bushings, nuts, washer and the spacer. I think I can do the job myself on my back.
 

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If you order the model-specific kit, it ought to come complete. Sometimes it can take creativity to get the assembly compressed just enough to get the nut started.
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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If the pic is to be trusted I've never seen bolt heads as slim as that. They look to be that way to fit all the way inside the washer depression - for what reason IDK. It may or may not be an issue getting them installed new, even if they try to spin as getting tighter you could just get a channel lock around the washer. But would sure affect removing later once rusted up a little if you can't even get a wrench on the head.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If the pic is to be trusted I've never seen bolt heads as slim as that. They look to be that way to fit all the way inside the washer depression - for what reason IDK. It may or may not be an issue getting them installed new, even if they try to spin as getting tighter you could just get a channel lock around the washer. But would sure affect removing later once rusted up a little if you can't even get a wrench on the head.
Yeah, I see some possible problems if I work on my back... )))
 

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There are newer style kits that the nut is now a machined shaft that slides into the bushings hole. You no longer have to fight trying to compress the bushings while getting the nut to catch. They were a breeze to install.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CE3P9D4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The polyurethane bushings have holes in them so they're more plyable. Stiffness wise, they were in between the stiffer version GM rubber and autozone valuecraft which were the softest. Nice and quiet
 

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Discussion Starter #10
91SS,

Thank you! I can see the difference - the barrel nut going through rubber bushing. I am wondering whether I can do the job without ramps or a hydraulic jack. I have only jack for a flat tire replacement (scissors jack) and two jack stands. Has anybody done this replacement using only scissors jack? Thanks.
 

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What we did back in the high school days before money for such, we'd use tall curbs. You'd roll up one side of the car onto the curb, do that side. Then repeat with the other side. It keeps the suspension 'level' enough and when we were skinny enough :)
 

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If you order from RA, remember the discount code.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If you order from RA, remember the discount code.
Thank you. I do use it every time I order from RA. Lately, I was mostly ordering from Amazon. Good prices, fast shipping, easy returns.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
BALLSS,

Thank you! I will most likely go with Moog, which has a barrel nut going through the rubber bushing. That makes installation much easier. See the previous posts.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yesterday, I replaced the both stabilizer bar links. The old ones were rusted and I had to use a saw and grinder to get rid of them. The installation was very fast and easy. Used Moog's problem solver links. Thank you for all the good advice!

While I was under the car, I noticed that the passenger side stabilizer bar bushing was shot/deformed. That's the side the link was disengaged from the control arm. Is it a big deal to remove rusted bolts holding the bracket to replace the bushing? What is the stabilizer bar diameter for Fleetwood? RockAuto lists several diameters. I forgot to measure while I was there.

Also, the ball stud to which the pitman arm is connected did not take any grease. The grease fitting was fine. Do I have to replace the ball stud?
 

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Interesting the RA listings show no fewer than 4 diameters, but nary a word on which oem suspensions they fit. If you can believe this post from the Cady Forums then this guy "thinks" that if your SPID shows the standard FE1 bar then it's 1": If 'twer me I'd just put a caliper around the bar and order from there.


Cady Bar.JPG

On the zerk I'd first eyeball close for physical damage, and then stick a pin in it to make sure it opens. I bought a HF box of various sizes when any fitting gives me resistance.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The zerk was fine. I took it out and tested. Will use caliper for sway bar, but it was definitely more than 1" in diameter.
 

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Be careful with the bracket bolts. They're a self tapping of sorts. You can usually get a way with one, maybe two reuses. It tends to strip out the frame threads. Best to get fresh regular bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Be careful with the bracket bolts. They're a self tapping of sorts. You can usually get a way with one, maybe two reuses. It tends to strip out the frame threads. Best to get fresh regular bolts.
Is there an option to use a bolt/nut combination or there is no access for a nut?
 
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