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All you have to do is fill it in with metal based filler



The basic steps are remove the moldings and clean all the paint out of groove.
then fill it in with the filler above, and then finish it off like you would normal filler..
 

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That's not my car:D
It's lilron's
 

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how easy is the metal filler to work with. I am considering doing this as well. After cleaning the paint from the groove, do I just apply the metal filler with a spatula, let dry and sand smooth to the contours of the body? any info helps. Thanks guys
 

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I am going to do this myself very soon. Has anyone else done this that is not an experience body shop or paint guy? I've been prepping my whole car myself for paint and I want to do this myself as well. Any tips would be appreciated.
 

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I'm looking to try my hand at some body work as well, paint stripper then metal filler? Or does it have to be bare metal?
 

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I am going to do this myself very soon. Has anyone else done this that is not an experience body shop or paint guy? I've been prepping my whole car myself for paint and I want to do this myself as well. Any tips would be appreciated.

this describes me.

I prepped my car up to the primer, all the body work was done by me, no major dings,
deleted: antenna, locks, trunk and wheel well moldings.

let me tell you; like body work painting is an art you need to acquire with repetitive work.

I think I wasted an entire can of 1 gallon body filler trying to do the trunk delete mod on my car, I think I added at least 15 coats of body filler and I would always over sand. By the time I got to the antenna and locks I was just using glazing putty and nocked them all out in a matter of hours.

I tried to do a full coat of 2k primer on my car and had all this runs, no big deal because I was going to wet sand the car, but I decided to pay someone $200 to shoot the paint.


I got my painted in the community college campus but you should look around your town their is some places where you can rent a paint booth. their is some people that shot their cars in their back yards and do a good job of it. but are you willing to risk it? any small speck of dirt stands out like crazy on a paint job.
 

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That is real nice color mind if I ask what brand and color.


Sent from my EVO using AutoGuide App
 

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house of color silver base, shoots like a 2k primer or clear not a base paint
base + reducer + hardener = ready to shoot

would probably go with a different brand simply because its cheaper and you can get bigger flakes. I even like the custom (brand) metallic base better and its cheaper.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/Customshop/ksumb.aspx

Custom candy apple read paint . Not a true candy its a candy looking base paint, if you shoot enough coats you will end up with a solid color but cant beat the price
http://www.tcpglobal.com/Customshop/ksukb.aspx

and finally a clear, same brand as the top coat of paint for consistency.



I must say that daily driver + candy paint = FAIL!!!!, car still looks great from a distance and in pictures but if you get with in 5 feet you can see alot of bad details, when you get a scratch on the paint, and you get down to the silver base coat, it almost looks as bad as if someone put a line of white-out on a black car.
if I did it again witch I probably will, I'm going to remove all the moldings and sand it since it needs no body work or body mods and take it to a shop. shooting and cutting (removing the orange peal / polishing) a new paint is a skill. I almost spent 1K in paint, I was more than happy to spend the extra 250 to have someone shoot it for me.

look at all the flat (hot rod) paint colors that are available now
http://www.tcpglobal.com/Customshop/rsflatz.aspx

even metallic flats
http://www.tcpglobal.com/Customshop/ksflatz.aspx
 

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