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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I’m rebuilding my rear end and am about to make my purchase of a set of Moser Axles. My question is this: What wheel studs do I purchase?

I just got off the phone with Moser themselves and he told me to buy the studs that have the part number 8254 which are advertised as 1 1/2 inch long. I went to my garage to measure my old axles and they measure about 1 1/4 inch on the inside of the flange and about 1 3/4 inch on the outside (Inside face of stud if you will) of the flange. My studs seem to be the original with two replaced but vary in length very very slightly-all pretty much the same. My car has Irocs on it and I plan to put stocks back on. Is Moser giving me the correct part number? Because the 8254 1 1/2 inch studs they are recommending on the phone differ and I’m scared my irocs won’t bolt back on until I buy my stock rims or maybe these 8254 1 1/2 studs will not be long enough no matter what. Need some help here. I read on the forum about different studs and people putting long ones on for racing and things. I don’t want to press the wrong studs in. They did say they could press them in for me but their website has no request field for that from what I see (he said they do). Should I just skip their studs and source a better stud? I’d like to set my car back down on the irocs (with functional studs) and be able to later get my stock wheel set on with the best studs. As for duty, I’m running a stock engine and a fresh 3:73 ring and pinion. I don’t need anything race special or anything but don’t want any problems temporarily mounting my iroc wheelset until later. I attached some photos to explain what I’m saying. My stock studs seem like they are going to be longer than Mosers 8254 shelf studs. They did say they had longer ones, we didn’t talk much about that. Are my irocs going to go back on? or am I going to put my irocs back on and the lug nuts not reach the stud forcing me to leave my car on Jack stands until I buy my stock rims? I hope this seems clear. Are stock studs 1 3/4 length? Mine sure seem to be just shy of...Didn’t mean to post in the drivetrain section of the forum but it’s part of the deal. I don’t see it as a tire/wheel discussion. Notes: one photo is measured from back of flange and other front. Thanks
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Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #2
****UPDATE: I just got off the phone with Moser and they were nice enough to go back into the warehouse to check the length of their #8254 axle studs. His caliper reading was 1.650”. I measured mine and it’s a match. Thanks
 

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I use/recommend ARP F-Body wheel studs 2.5" long,but they also offer 3.25" that allow easy use of spacers to manipulate offset.
 

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I use/recommend ARP F-Body wheel studs 2.5" long,but they also offer 3.25" that allow easy use of spacers to manipulate offset.
Are you talking about spacing stock wheels closer to the fender well? Ive never heard of this until now. I am going back to stock wheels with a 275x40x17 tire
I use/recommend ARP F-Body wheel studs 2.5" long,but they also offer 3.25" that allow easy use of spacers to manipulate offset.
Are you talking about putting a spacer between the wheel and the hub shift the tire closer to the wheel well? I’ve never heard of this yet on the forum and this is my first time modifying my wheels and suspension. I’m moving away from 24 inch rims and installing Hotchkis suspension with stock wheels on a 275x40x17 tire. Looking for this look in the pictures attached. Is a longer stud even necessary? I’ve heard people on the forum saying they caps on at a certain point. I know the spacer would fix that but again? How much better would my car look? Wouldn’t the 275 (someone said Picture rear possibly 285) tire Put me where I want? IDK, dont mean to make it a big deal. My car is a true ss with the wider axle. I wonder if the 275-285 tire would rub in your recommendation. If you can clear things up a little by replying I’d appreciate it. I already ordered my studs. I’d like to learn more here. whats the chances this photo has spacers? Thanks.
 

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You'll likely find the driver's side tire/wheel appears further in than passenger side. Mine is 5/16",and 1/8" in rear. Without longer studs the most one can add is 1/4". With longer studs one can easily add up to 3/4" spacer(s)...
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Discussion Starter #6
You'll likely find the driver's side tire/wheel appears further in than passenger side. Mine is 5/16",and 1/8" in rear. Without longer studs the most one can add is 1/4". With longer studs one can easily add up to 3/4" spacer(s)...
View attachment 194809
Thanks For the info. I do remember one side of my car having one of my tires having finger gap or more and the other barley clearing (Big wheels and lowered). When I’d take certain corners one tire would rub. I think it was the passenger side. Being that my rear end is out of my car for a total overhaul, and all cars vary in this non center situation, I’d be guessing to purchase spacers at this point. I know it’s more work and a waste of studs later but what else can I do other than setting the car down on my tire choice and then doing spacing, stud change on a separate job later if it bothers me. If all cars body mounts and things differ, then to perfect this wouldn’t people need to face mill one spacer since, im guessing, spacers only come in pairs and maybe a few size thicknesses? Do people even face mill these spacers to get it right? IDK, I just feel that it doesnt really bother me that much to be off a tad under the wheel well with no spacers than to space and still be off a smaller tad-as long as I’m not rubbing. How close do these spacers get peoples gap from one well to the other? All cars different I’m guessing? I guess I could put new longer studs in but I don’t know if my caps will go on until I get to spacing. Anyone know the maximum legnth of studs that can go on without interfering with stock wheel caps being installed? Now that I think about it, I’d probably be happy with spacing one side only. Or is this what people do anyway? Thanks
 

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You can get spacers in 1/16" increments so no need to face mill them.

Another option is to loosen the body mount bolts and slide the body left/right to center the wheels in the wheel wells instead of a spacer on one side or different width spacers.

Put the center cap on your wheel, stick a pencil, stick, extension, thin tape measure, etc in one of the holes in the wheel until it hits the center cap. That's how long the studs can be before interfering.
 

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Even if I had 3.25" wheel studs,stock caps would easily clear them.
 
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Most you can expect to move body on frame is only 1/4",or so....
 
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