Which front rotors and pads would you choose?

3308 Views 50 Replies 18 Participants Last post by killian96ss, 2 mo ago

sonuvah

Discussion Starter · 2 mo ago

The Speedtech front control arms and QA-1 coilovers have been sitting in the garage for almost a year. It's almost time to install them on my 96 Impala. While the changes are being made I thought it would be a good time to do the pads and rotors also as the rotors are still the originals at 135k. Sorry no wear-down disk thickness measurements to report. I've been looking at three brake/rotor kits, all on the Summit Racing web site. Probably use the same stock calipers, brackets, and pins unless someone talks me out of it, or I see damage to them upon removal. The car is not a daily driver, just goes out for joy rides when the weather's good and longish trips with wifey. It won't see any drag racing or autocross. Just want a nice upgrade to enhance stopping performance and appearance. The brake proportioning valve on the master cylinder was installed years ago. If you do not recommend one or more of these and could provide reason(s) why, I'd appreciate that, too. Suggestions for another better quality brand/deal are welcome, too. So here's the three I like in order of preference. Thanks for your help!
1. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hwk-hkc4150-131f/make/chevrolet/model/impala/year/1996
2. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ebc-s5kf1069/make/chevrolet/model/impala/year/1996
3. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ebc-s13kf1528/make/chevrolet/model/impala/year/1996

1 - 20 of 51 Posts

Fred Kiehl

· #2 · 2 mo ago

If you really want to improve your brakes install a Hydroboost. You can get the hoses from Rockauto.com (1980s diesel Olds), and a flat mounting plate (ebay or early 90s Astrovan). You need the correct master cylinder, because it is smaller at the Hydroboost.

Reactions: 1

Fix Until Broke

· #3 · 2 mo ago

I'll second Fred's recommendation for Hydraboost to actually improve braking performance.

If your rotors are good (which include the front wheel bearing races), I'd leave them alone and invest in good brake pads. That's the only difference in the kits you selected relative to braking performance. The rotors themselves are all visual unless they're larger diameter and/or thicker than stock.

Reactions: 1

Marky Dissod

· #4 · 2 mo ago

'77-'96 B- & D-cars don't have quite enough front rotor mass.
Drilled rotors, for already undersized rotors, is not a good idea (at least those rotors you linked are not drilled).

You'd get more out of undersized dimpled / slotted rotors if you also had 9C1 calipers & 9C1-D614A pads.
(instead of WX calipers and D614 pads).
Upgraded my Fleetwood (many years ago) & my wagon with 9C1 calipers and D614A pads (Bendix Fleet MetLock).
Worth every penny, FAR cheaper, likely enough if you don't autocross - unless you panic stop from 60MpH or greater.

Rotors of similar mass with better venting: Astrafari front rotor conversion

www.impalassforum.com

FYI: Astro Brake Rotor Upgrade

[editor's note: This is a transcript of the article I wrote for the ISSCA SScene for the winter/spring 2011 edition. I have made a few updates since that article went to print.] Ever thought about upgrading your brakes but didn’t have the cash to buy one of the nice but high-dollar big brake...

www.impalassforum.com

www.impalassforum.com

sonuvah

Discussion Starter · #5 · 2 mo ago

Anybody know of a larger and thicker rotor and brake pad kit that fit the B-body?

cappy p

· #6 · 2 mo ago

sonuvah said:
Anybody know of a larger and thicker rotor and brake pad kit that fit the B-body?

KORE3 Industries LLC: On and Off-Road Performance Automotive Components

Reactions: 1

shakenfake

· #7 · 2 mo ago

@Fred Kiehl For the hydroboost conversion do you need to edit the brake pedal?

BALLSS

· #8 · 2 mo ago

Having owned the 96 since new and driving in S CA traffic, many canyon carving runs and my share of holly shiat brake stops I have not had any issues in stopping. Yeah bigger badder systems would shorten the stop distance I suspect and certainly autox use would benefit from a larger brake rotor and caliper.

So with that said, I bought rebuild kits for front & rear calipers and I have had Power Slot and now BEAR slotted stock size rotors and Performance Friction pads on both rotors. A big improvement on any setup is to use stainless braided brake lines vs stock rubber type. The pedal feel is firmer, and the SS lines do not expand like stock soft lines do.

OP, of your 3 choices I would go with the EBC 5...but also do SS brake lines...all 5 of them

Reactions: 3

Z09B4U

· #9 · 2 mo ago

Wow eight posts before someone addresses the OP thread question.

BALLSS said:
Having owned the 96 since new and driving in S CA traffic, many canyon carving runs and my share of holly shiat brake stops I have not had any issues in stopping. Yeah bigger badder systems would shorten the stop distance I suspect and certainly autox use would benefit from a larger brake rotor and caliper.

Lets confuse the b-body brake modifiers with some facts:

91 RoadMaster Brakes 60-0 in 136 feet with REAR DRUMS. With a trailer it was the shortest stopping vehicle tested.
Popular Mechanics · ‎Vol. 168, No. 7

94 Impala 120 feet.
Motortrend June 1994.

After four stops from 90 MPH a 9C1 stops at 135.6. Four more 90 MPH stops and it stops at 139.4.
1996 Patrol Vehicle Testing.

After four 90 MPH stops the patrol car tests match closely the1991 tests on a Roadmaster with drums. After eight 90 MPH stops and two 60 MPH stops there is about FOUR FEET of brake fade.

The Roadmaster, 9C1, and Impala all used the same size front rotor.

The only real advantage of the 9C1 is a possibly larger pad surface. In 2023 it would take a lot of research to find the larger brake material pad with a superior material. The 9C1 did have a different master cylinder and booster(from memory).

Sonuvah I wish I could recommend a pad but the truth is that products with the same part number can change from day to day. They change factories and materials.

If you are able to decrease a measured stopping distance by a significant amount I expect you will have spent a lot of money and time. Is it really worth it for a street car?

See less See more

Reactions: 3

shakenfake

· #10 · 2 mo ago

Z09B4U said:
If you are able to decrease a measured stopping distance by a significant amount I expect you will have spent a lot of money and time. Is it really worth it for a street car?

Decreasing measured stopping distance could quite possibly save your car or even your life. I would say yes.

You are right though, a lot of time and money will be sunk to see a measurable gain.

Reactions: 1

Z09B4U

· #11 · 2 mo ago (Edited)

www.caranddriver.com

Best Brakes: The Shortest-Stopping Cars We've Ever Tested

An essential quality in a fast car is how quickly it can become a stopped car.

www.caranddriver.com

www.caranddriver.com

1994 Chevrolet Impala SS

It combines Sixties SS acceleration with Nineties braking and handling.

www.caranddriver.com

At 70 MPH The Impala is within 52 feet (about two car lengths) of the best super cars Motortrend has tested and a Impala is 500-1000 LB heaver and years older.

There are a lot of threads about spending time and money on aftermarket brakes but very little documentation about reduced stopping distances or reduced brake fade VS OEM.

I will always upgrade my tires over brake modifications.

Reactions: 5

sherlock9c1

· #12 · 2 mo ago

Good lord those are expensive rotors and pads. I just put 9C1 calipers on the front of one of my B-bodies for like $32 apiece shipped from Rock Auto. I put D614A semi-metallic pads on and it stops with authority (and much dust, if you hate dust). Rock Auto is clearancing all the D614A pads so you can get them cheap. Total cost on my front end including hoses was maybe $100 shipped (March 2023 numbers), but that didn't include rotors.

Reactions: 2

Z09B4U

· #13 · 2 mo ago

Probably not worth the time for most people but I seem to remember people removing a little material and installing the 9C1 pads in a normal caliper.

I believe the improvement in the D614A pads is in material and surface area. I have never understood how a thicker pad improves stopping power.

95wagon

· #14 · 2 mo ago

" want a nice upgrade to enhance stopping performance "

as in
Shorten distance in a panic stop ?
Reduce fade from multiple hard stops ?
Make pedal feel more precise?

Pad thickness , isolate piston from heat better ? More service life ?

Pad surface area in itself doesn't really do much on first stop.
For a given line pressure on a given piston the smaller pads has less area but more force per square inch.
Look at drag race brakes , small pads, work awesome,,,,, once.

Reactions: 2

shakenfake

· #15 · 2 mo ago

@Z09B4U Maybe the thicker pad just means less piston travel so it makes the driver think that less pedal use means more stopping power? Not sure.
A thicker pad should dissipate heat better though meaning brakes stay cooler and work better.

91ss

· #16 · 2 mo ago

no and no

sonuvah

Discussion Starter · #17 · 2 mo ago

Balls SS - I'm interested in the rebuild kits you used for front & rear calipers. Also, the SS brake hoses. Part #'s, sources, and a how-to link would be ideal in a perfect world.
Cappy p - I'm liking those rotors and pads you suggested. Thanks!

Reactions: 1

nsaness

· #18 · 2 mo ago

Z09B4U said:
Wow eight posts before someone addresses the OP thread question.

Lets confuse the b-body brake modifiers with some facts:

91 RoadMaster Brakes 60-0 in 136 feet with REAR DRUMS. With a trailer it was the shortest stopping vehicle tested.
Popular Mechanics · ‎Vol. 168, No. 7
94 Impala 120 feet.
Motortrend June 1994.
After four stops from 90 MPH a 9C1 stops at 135.6. Four more 90 MPH stops and it stops at 139.4.
1996 Patrol Vehicle Testing.
After four 90 MPH stops the patrol car tests match closely the1991 tests on a Roadmaster with drums. After eight 90 MPH stops and two 60 MPH stops there is about FOUR FEET of brake fade.
The Roadmaster, 9C1, and Impala all used the same size front rotor.
The only real advantage of the 9C1 is a possibly larger pad surface. In 2023 it would take a lot of research to find the larger brake material pad with a superior material. The 9C1 did have a different master cylinder and booster(from memory).
Sonuvah I wish I could recommend a pad but the truth is that products with the same part number can change from day to day. They change factories and materials.
If you are able to decrease a measured stopping distance by a significant amount I expect you will have spent a lot of money and time. Is it really worth it for a street car?

Z09B4U said:
Best Brakes: The Shortest-Stopping Cars We've Ever Tested

An essential quality in a fast car is how quickly it can become a stopped car.

www.caranddriver.com

1994 Chevrolet Impala SS

It combines Sixties SS acceleration with Nineties braking and handling.

www.caranddriver.com

At 70 MPH The Impala is within 52 feet (about two car lengths) of the best super cars Motortrend has tested and a Impala is 500-1000 LB heaver and years older.
There are a lot of threads about spending time and money on aftermarket brakes but very little documentation about reduced stopping distances or reduced brake fade VS OEM.
I will always upgrade my tires over brake modifications.

I like where you guys went with that. I had a real hard time (justifying) upgrading my brakes due to the extreme costs involved. I also remembered that the 94-96 Impala SS stopped from 70-0 in 179 feet. I saved magazine articles from varoius cars from the era. The Impala SS was certainly impressive for braking. Notable to me was the 1994 Acura NSX costing $77,000 and weighing 3,030 pounds. The stopping distance for the 94 NSX was 70-0 in 170 feet.
8 feet less than the 4,200 pound Impala SS; I'll take the 4 door car please.
If you can keep the system in excellent working condition, the "upgrades" are more about cosmetics and state of mind. It's like someone "feeling" the extra horsepower of a K&N filter or a louder muffler.

That said, I admit I am beyond thrilled with my new brakes!!!!!

Reactions: 2

sonuvah

Discussion Starter · #19 · 2 mo ago

Agreed. Everything looks expensive! The Baer setup is over $3k just for the fronts. I need to keep this project reasonable for a street driver car.

sherlock9c1

· #20 · 2 mo ago

You can also use D614 (not D614A) pads that have the bigger footprint without the added depth. I have a set of D614 pads I bought accidentally and can confirm that they are bigger than stock D52s but are not as thick as D614A pads.

Reactions: 2

1 - 20 of 51 Posts