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They tried them at Diavik.

K&N said they could cut the air filter budget in half.

Lost two CAT engines in two hours.

Back to stock filters - no issues.

Engines serviced every 200 hours.

I have seen lots of ruined turbos on 6.0's and 7.3's from the K&N style filters.
 

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Good to know. I have a K & N on my car, yikes!
 

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The issue comes from how you're using the filter. The more open construction of those k&n performance type filters allow more airflow while also catching fewer particles. The tighter packed filters will catch more particles but reduce the airflow passing through. If you want reliable for years I'd go with a stock type filter. If you want a slight bump in power on track days then drop in a "performance" filter for the slight increase in cfm's. I know a few oldschool racers who used to remove their filters at the track during runs to allow for maximum airflow into the carb. Of course they also raced on strips that had paved pits and everything so dirt wasn't much of a concern.
 

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Had a k&N drop in my VW Fox, got over 300K miles on it before dumping at the wrecker, engine was still fine.
Put one in my VW TDI, filter housing was slightly warped, wasn't sealing right, went back to stock, which has a better gasket.
My Impala SS has a raiss which has S&B filter, but I am sure it is as good or bad as K&N.
I also have a K&N cai in my GTO.
Looking at that chart, the K&N is not much worse than the Purolater which I bet a lot use as it cheap.
 

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OK, but where are STP and Fram? Fram is huge for air filters.
 

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Sorry guys but these motors are not huge investment super high HP. You will see more wear on your engine by starting it in the morning. My opinion i would use the filter that lets the most air through. Hell take it off... OK just kidding
 

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The way I see it, a clean K+N will out flow a paper filter but will will filter worse
A dirty K+N will filter better, as dirt gets suck to the oil and fills in the gaps, finer dirt particles will stick to this. BUT, now it doesn't flow very well.

But regardless, the benefit to a K+N is that you can used it, exposed to the elements, in a cold air intake. I am sure there are better FILTERING filters out there, such as foam maybe for this applications...but you really need to pick one, flow or filter. For the same size filter with the same surface area, I don't see how anything can flow better AND filter better. It just doesn't seem possible. You either have larger gaps for air to get in, therefor it'll flow better....or you have finer gaps for air to get in and therefor it will filter better but flow worse.
 

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Its a proven fact that the K&N will out flow most anything on the market - when its new! But after it starts to get dirty the flow rate drops way off! And lets face it who really cleans the thing that often, or as often as your suppose to?? I run a AFE dry flow, (the 5 layer) and a pre filter "sock" over the filter. Way better set up than the K&N and actually flows better in daily driving life after a few miles out in the real world. Oh, by the way since the K&N is a cotton gauze 3 layer type filter every time you do actually clean it the gauze deteriorates, which in turns makes it less of a filter.:D
 

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if you are that anal about it, then the best ideal filter is one that flows MUCH, MUCH, MUCH more air than the engine will ever possibly be able to ingest. The filter should not cause any restriction on the engine. That way, when it does get dirty and start to clog up, then it still won't become a restriction for a very long time.

Personally, I'm not too worried about it at the level we are playing.
 

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Well, I guess i'm running the best possible set-up right now. I have the Ram Air set-up from a Trans Am with a Fram panel filter. The filter is huge therefore has a large surface area making up for any potential flow issues. I was going to "upgrade" to the K&N but at $77 for a filter that requires high maintenance and delivers mediocre filtering performance, I think i'll stick with what I have.
 

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if you are that anal about it, then the best ideal filter is one that flows MUCH, MUCH, MUCH more air than the engine will ever possibly be able to ingest. The filter should not cause any restriction on the engine. That way, when it does get dirty and start to clog up, then it still won't become a restriction for a very long time.

Personally, I'm not too worried about it at the level we are playing.
My thought is if you are changing the air filter system, they all cost about the same so why not get the best you can for your money. Things to think about are the location of the filter. Wet filters close to the MAF have accounted for many a contaminated MAF from the oil. What about air flow when they get dirty, K&N filters much better as they get dirty but the air flow goes down. Then there is the factor of airflow and turbulance. A good air filter will straighten the airflow. Sure were anal about this stuff, why else would we be on these forums? LOL
 

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My problem is that NO aftermarket K&N style air filter will filter as good as this:


Period.

This is the factory 6.4 Diesel air filter. Similar in design to the 6.0 Diesel air filter, as well as the high-capacity 7.3 filters.

Guys come in with a K&N or equivalent filter on their truck, with all the fins on the turbo polished smooth and wonder why there's an issue with me putting it through as warranty.

Simple fact - let in more air, let in more dirt. I don't have a problem with this style of filter - however I do have a problem with the marketing of that filter style as well as the customers that use it and ASSUME everything will be fine, because some big-name company backs the product.

And a lot of times - the stock filtration will do WELL than more enough for the application it's on, unless it's heavily modified. I would bet you a lot of guys would be very surprised if they put a water manometer in the intake tube and knew actually how many inches of water you were pulling when hammering on it.

If a 6.4 dual-turbocharged diesel engine can breathe through the above filter with less than 2" restriction under full load at WOT and roughly 35-38psi boost - most N/A motors will breathe through a factory-style paper element air filter just fine.

Don't even get me started on MAF contamination from people over-oiling the filter, either.

Just my .02
 

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Part number for what?
 
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