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Sent my 8000 mile oil(from the oil filter) sample to blackstone. Here is what I get back..

So for the longest time I assume this has been the case in this motor given I have used the same air filter setup for... 30k miles? Maybe my misfires are because of dead cylinders then.

Let me just say to not use PVC tubing in your intake delete package. ABS is fine because it wont shrink under pressure and heat, but PVC does. I am now looking at buying the 40 dollar aluminum tubing kit off of Ebay to delete plastic parts altogether now.

Also going to look at getting power driven diesels dust bowl air filter.
 

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your oil analysis is most likely from your messed up ECT output to the PCM.. operating in a rich mode will cause the oil to get gas in it and reduce the lubrication ..also increased carbon deposits which will wear on the combustion chamber components.

running the engine in a rich mode you may like the performance but the engine will wear out faster..

on the air filtration if it is messed up I would expect a coating of dust/film on the intake air pipes ..

the intake manifold leaks will throw codes . so I doubt the intake is allowing too much air in .
 

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you do not use oil from the oil filter .. not my IMO but the labs instruction is to use oil that was up to operating temp ,,, as the oil drains out you catch a few OZ and send to lab..

do not use the first or last drips on the drain.. or you can suck out threw the dip stick .. as the lab instruction states.
 

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you do not use oil from the oil filter .. not my IMO but the labs instruction is to use oil that was up to operating temp ,,, as the oil drains out you catch a few OZ and send to lab..

do not use the first or last drips on the drain.. or you can suck out threw the dip stick .. as the lab instruction states.
I forgot to get a sample as the oil was draining out. That oil was then not acceptable for analysis. Blackstone states that you can use the filter oil, just have to let them know. I have an ez drain valve on my car now, so I can take a sample in a 1000 miles like they requested.

Will be sending in another sample at 1000 miles. The correct way.

Got my new air intake and I'm ready to go!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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on my impala I will never use those drain valves . sure I may install one on my toyota 4runner with the steel plates covering all of the bottom .. oil change on toyota a lot more work , but more protection .

oil filter oil with lots of bad stuff , good filter

your ECT fail will cause this type oil issue . carbon will take some time to be cleaned out..

back in the old days on my 83 GM sedan I did have problems as well as others.. the gas additives created all sorts of combustion chamber deposits..well I had to use regane .. this cleaned out these deposits of carbon .. engine would not shutdown .. turn key off it would Diesel .. then the gas was changed and I no longer had to use regane..

what also happened it would detonate , because of the carbon creating higher compression smaller area due to the deposits..
engine lasted 17 yrs and 380K miles no repairs .. vehicle ran better than new when I sold it because of the 1980's bad gas additives..
 

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OP

seems "metal" content is high according to test results

Do you see any visible signs of sparkle in oil or have you cut the filter to look?

8k mi is higher mi that I go between changes

will be interesting to see your 1k mi test results...
 

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I put one of those quick drain things on my car once. First of all it always dripped. Also it drained painfully slow. Aside from the risk of knocking it off the car with road debris. Never again.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
My truck has one and I never worry about it. Must have got a bad one if yours leaks.

Slow draining makes no difference to me. I have a lot of prep I need to do when changing oil. Fill oil filter, get oil bottle seals off, get old oil filter off, get funnel and prep oil fill area. My truck drains 3 gallons and if it's still draining when I'm done with all that, I got plenty of other stuff to do.

My OCI(TBN) mileage would have been good had I not had the super rich issues and major flooding on the last change. I had been changing every 5k, and the oil kept coming out honey colored, so I figured I'll push it a little this time. PLUS I added Liqui Moly MOS2, which shows on the oil analysis..

I'm going to have the current oil tested at 5k, and check the TBN at that time. With normal running, I hope to get 7500.

Come to find out the worst of my issues aren't changing the oil, its the autozone air filter that has been giving me the shaft the whole time.

FWIW, I'm running schaeffer's premium oil in my truck and plan to get 20k on that oil. Oil analysis to be done at 7500 miles on that.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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I want my oil to come out fast and hot .. but I do wait until its all out . I also like the magnet drain plugs . cheaper oil analysis.. LOL...
 

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I don't need to drain 3 gallons but it was a pain waiting for 6.5 quarts to drain out.

I don't have much to do under there. It takes me maybe 10-15 minutes start to finish (ramps and all) to change the oil.
 
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