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Wire Location Question

4K views 29 replies 3 participants last post by  94MI9C1 
#1 ·
Just received my new alarm yesterday and like usual I am going to attempt to install myself before calling the professionals. I looked under the car but I wanted to make sure I had the right location. Can someone post pics or verify the iginiton wiring harness. I saw what I believe are the wires, which are the much fatter ones, but I wanted to make sure before I start cutting wires. Also can someone give me the locations that they put their control centers and cpu. Thanks
 
#2 ·
First and foremost ALWAYS ALWAYS cut a "window" or strip of insulation from the heavy gauge ignition wires and solder the wire that you need to interface to it, if you are talking this is just an alarm then yeah you will have to cut the starter wire for the disable portion.

Control Centers and CPU?!!!! What is that. if you are talking the brain box, bury it so if someone tried to steal your car they would have a hell of time finding the box.

Ignition wires are on the top and side of the steering column.

What model and brand of alarm are you installing, or attempting I should say :)
 
#3 ·
Thanks. Yeah I read up on soldering and how to strip the wire. I was just making sure that I had the right location. So I am guessing the thicker wires are the ignition wires that I need to use.
Yeah I am taking about the brain but that is what the book called them. I just wanted to know a good location it or where most installers put it.
I am atempting a Viper 5901 but I think I am in over my head and I havent even taken the plastic off the box. LOL.
 
#4 ·
Yes I would suggest that you get all the appropriate FSM or wiring diagrams for the car as they will have the color code listed, as well as double check the wires function with a meter. It isn't very complicated to install a 5901, I have done a few of them. I fyou are going to attempt it yourself, just read through everything thoroughly and double if not triple check your connections. Also if hooking up the remote start function on the alarm be aware of the VATS system if you have it on your car, will have to be disabled. This a pretty good forum to check out and for you to do some research on, what is your location? Doubt you are close to me, but you never know, I could help you out.
 
#5 ·
Yeah I have all the wire diagrams from here and 12volt. I just dont see where all the connections are supposed to go. I dont have a VATS system so i thought I would have an easier time but I am second-guessing now. I'm in NC but I actually have family in Kalmazoo. Thanks for the help so far.
 
#6 ·
the wire diagram on here is dead on, i installed a commando fm870 on mine and it was not all that hard, just take your time and be sure you connect the correct wires, would probably be easier on your back if you remove the front seat so you could lay on the floor, solder is a must along with lots of insulation, hide the brain in a good place and dont tell anyone where it is(cant trust anybody these days, ask me how i know) if you feel you can do it yourself then do cause shops charge a good deal of cash for the install, good luck if you have trouble let us know and we will try to help as best we can from over the web
 
#8 ·
Thanks for all of the help. I feel like a dumbazz because nothing is making sense. I am looking at the install guide and I saw the vehicle diagrams from 12 volt and a few other sites. After looking around I dont see where half of the wires on the 3 alarm harnesses are supposed to go. I think I am going to have to throw in the towel. Now i see why people pay so much to allow professionals to do it.
 
#11 ·
Yeah there are like a million wires. I just wish I knew which ones I actually needed. I talked to a guy who installs and he said without the VATS he could do it in about an hour and a half next week. I have my doubts about this guy after reading the forums and peoples install times. But if what he is saying is true then I really feel like a sorry azz.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Well you have to think about it though, if he has done the installation a couple of times on our version of cars, it goes pretty fast, but I am not sure that the quality would be there. My friend that installs them all day long, takes at least 3 hours to do an install on a basic car. VATs isn't rocket science, measure the key resistance, install resistor across wires going to ignition cylinder and that is it, maybe half an hour. Finding and double checking the interface wiring takes longer than disabling/tricking out VATs does.

Things that take the longest for the installation

- routing wiring to make for a clean installation
- mounting the boxes in a good location, i.e. hidden and making sure that the shock sensor is on the main support of the dash from proper operation.
- mounting the siren
- running the wiring for the tach feed
- location and drilling hole for status LED and location for remote disarm switch
- double checking the wiring is a big thing, even if I know where it goes I double check to be certain
 
#14 ·
That is good advice, just take your time if you are going to do it yourself. Maybe I should just get a remote start alarm for my Roady and do an installation how to. I think that there are alot of guys out there that would like to do this sort of installation, but get intimidated with the wiring that is involved.
 
#15 ·
Yeah i cant believe that nobody has done a step by step how-to for alarms. Thanks for all of the advice so far though. I guess I am going to attempt it over the holidays and if it doesn't work I will take it to the installer. If I miss a wire when installing, I am assuming that nothing bad can happen??? Right?? Thanks
 
#16 ·
the remote start is the portion that you are going to have to worry about the most, if there is a wire missed or not wired correctly it can cause things like starter run on and stuff like that. It is pretty straight forward, in the next few days I will see if I can dig into my car so that you can see where the wiring needs to be spliced to, can't guarantee it, but I will try,
 
#17 ·
I am definitly going to document this install if it turns out ok. OK I just finished ripping the dash apart and located most of the wires from the 12 volt wire diagram. I do have a couple of questions though. Are these the only wires (18 total) that I will be using for my alarm? In the instructions for the 12v constant it is saying that I need to add another fuse. It already has a 15A but it is saying that is for the control module. What size fuse should I use if any? Lastly for now, where in the hell do all of the Aux (H2) wires go? And can someone translate what they are talking about if they have the Viper Installation guide: http://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/IG/Viper/N5702V_2008_08web.pdf
 
#18 · (Edited)
Just going over it really quick but I will look it over more thoroughly, it has been about a year or so since I ave installed on.

H2 harness, you won't use at all, unless you need door poppers or something like that. Also runs for factory alarm stuff, which you don't have, or if you want the horn to honk when alarm is triggered, which I doubt.

I don't believe that you need another fuse. Unless you are tapping off of this wire for other things like remote trunk pop and dome light supervision. you will need to add a fuse to the wire that is feeding these relays.

I will see what I can draw up for you tonight or later in the week
 
#19 ·
On the heavy guage 10 pin connector I am not sure which ignition wires I actually need to use. I know that I have to use the pink one for the main but what about the fused ignition 2 wire, fused ignition 1, ignition 2 flex relay, and 87a wires that are on the alarm wires? The same goes for the starter. Which starter wire from the alarm do I need to hook up to the ignition switch harness? Thanks
 
#20 ·
#21 ·
and dont forget about the vats, you will need to disable in order for remote start to work, have to use an ohm meter and touch prongs to each side off the chip in your key to mesure the resistance, then buy resistors to get close(withen a certain number + -) to the same number and solder them together and to the wires running to the vats system
 
#22 ·
Thanks. I am using the 12volt website and this forum to help with the install. I have the voltmeter and have tested the wires before hooking them up. I am actually using the link that you sent. I also do not have VATS. What I was wondering is which wires that I needed to use from the harness? Going down the list here is what I have
1. I am using the pink wire to connect to the pink in the ignition harness.
2. ??
3. Orange to orange accessory wire
4/5. Not sure which ones to use. On the guide I am only seeing one starter wire and that is yellow. Does that go to the 4 or 5 in the harness?
6/7/8/9. Do I need these wires and if so where do they go? Thanks.

PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT
H3/2 RED/WHITE (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)
H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE)
H3/6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT
H3/8 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX
RELAY
H3/9 RED/BLACK (+) FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT
 
#23 ·
Ok for the starter wire, this is the one that you are going to have to cut, the wire running down the column from the key has to be spliced to the green wire on the pin 5 on the H3 harness, the other side of that which will be on the body side will go to the starter, this needs to be spliced to the Violet wire of pin 4 of the H3 harness, this is part of the starter kill circuit that the alarm is going to give you. Let me see if I can whip up a quick drawing for you, so you know what I am talking about.
 
#24 ·
Thanks for the quick response. Got pin 5 going to the yellow of the ignition harness. I am not sure where the wire from the body side of the starter is located. Can you give me some more info on where I can find this or test for it? I am assuming that I dont need pin 2 and 6-9. Thanks
 
#25 ·
The YELLOW wire that is at the column connector, you are going to have to cut it in two, this will make two sections, one that comes from the column and then one that goes to the starter, follow?! attach as I indicated above, I am working on a drawing for it right now for you.
 
#29 ·
Thanks for the diagram. I had actually given up and thought I found an installer friday. He was having problems with the remote start also. I figured I better get my car back before he messed soemthing up since he was just as lost as I was. I am going to try this again and if I get this installed I will definitly send some cash your way. I do have a few questions with a few wires and some of the diagrams I couldn't see.
 
#30 ·
Well that sucks and that guy must be a shi**y installer if he was having troubles with the installation. It isn't rocket science that is for sure. Let me know on the wires that you need help with, you talking on the drawing that I made or in the manual, just let me know.
 
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