Chevy Impala SS Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,519 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok I had one back 10 years ago, but after moving 3 times since then, I can no longer find the Aluminum tool that you install the water pump coupler seal.

If anyone has a lead I'd appreciate it.

I have found sellers on EvilBay, but was hoping to get one from a member of our community.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,981 Posts
If you were close, I'd let you borrow mine. It's only seen the light of day 2 times since I got it. Then again, 1 of those tools you hope you don't use often. :wink2:

Never done it this way but in a pinch, maybe this would be a good option to try?

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
909 Posts
Tool is nice to have, but unnecessary. As stated above, use a sharpie-cap. It works just fine if you're careful
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,459 Posts
also the spline coupler works....just need to get the seal "started" on it without folding over the inner seal lip. It helps to turn the seal as you initially slide it on the coupler

The Bufffman one, and Kent Moore OEM one, have a tapered end making the seal slide on easy as does the Sharpie pen cap

there are options
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,231 Posts
Agreed, polish the coupler and use that as your install tool.
Nab
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,519 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Awesome suggestions guys. I hadn't thought about the coupler. I'll do that for sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,981 Posts
Agreed on using the Coupler but they are generally rusted up or far from smooth. I would worry about it ripping the seal as it was installed. If going this route, I would think a Socket like shown in the video would be better as it is most likely a lot smoother/cleaner than the coupler would be.

there was also mention of the sharpie tool being made out of the "cap". Back in the day when I first did this, there was a drawing and all showing you how to use a Sharpie Case or body....not the cap. Not familiar with the cap but as long as the size is correct, no reason you can't. but this is more of what I was familiar with and actually used the first time doing the WP seal....



Be sure to put a little oil on whatever it is you attempt to use which will help it slide on/off better.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,519 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Bob,
I agree with ya about the surface of the coupler. I'll still take a look at junkyards the next time I'm there

Hell I'm also going to see how much a vendor from work can make a sample lot for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,742 Posts
Never,never,never use oil (or,any lubricant) when installing this seal. Don't take my word for it. Open up the FSM,and read the directions for yourself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,981 Posts
Bob,
I agree with ya about the surface of the coupler. I'll still take a look at junkyards the next time I'm there

Hell I'm also going to see how much a vendor from work can make a sample lot for me.
Sorry Steve, I still owe you some measurements for that tool. I'll see if I can't get some time tonight and get those to ya.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,231 Posts
I always use oil when installing it.
It works better this way &helps to lubricate the seal so it slides on easily w/o tearing it.
Never had any probelm with leaks.
It will get oil on it when the engine running anyway ;)

Nab
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,981 Posts
I always use oil when installing it.
It works better this way &helps to lubricate the seal so it slides on easily w/o tearing it.
Never had any probelm with leaks.
It will get oil on it when the engine running anyway ;)

Nab
Likewise what has worked for me. And just like this old thread mentions, just a film of oil is all I use just so it can "slide(s) on easily". The FSM has been wrong before but I just think over the years we've all found better/different ways of doing things that all seem to work.

Even this old thread mentions using some oil on the tool.

https://www.impalasuperstore.com/naisso/Forum2009/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=30984&whichpage=1

On page six of this same thread is a image which shows the Sharpie Case tool and how to make it. I believe its this exact drawing I first worked from when making this tool and before I bought 1 from Buffman.



I asked Bacon to fix this, but I guess he forgot, I just got informed
that it wasnt working, so here is the pictures new location :



EDIT - Just measured my Buffman Tool and the magic number you want for the end of the Sharpie Case where the seal slips off is .6955" as measured with a Caliper. This matches up to what they have in the Pic above.

Honestly, if I had to go this route again, I would take a closer look at just using the Deep Socket mentioned in that video. Even the Sharpie case can have Nicks or Scratches which could do something to the seal as it is being slide on/off. At least the Socket is pretty smooth and more like the aluminum tool.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,459 Posts
The FSM and the insert leaflet with the FelPro timing cover set say to install the WP drive and Opti seal "dry" because they are PTFE seals, not rubber.

Not being the design engineer of these seals I follow the instructions.

Yes the seal would "slide" on easier with oil but using a "tool" I have found they install well and I have not had any leaks when installing them dry.

Not saying they will if you do use oil as others that do oil them seem to not have a leak issue as a result......but given the FSM and manufacturer of the seal advise to install dry I follow that advice. YMMV
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,515 Posts
You want to oil a teflon seal before assembly , go right ahead.
Does not make it right though, and advising others to do so is ,,,,,,

Do some research

http://www.engineaustralia.com.au/~engine/sites/default/files/SB035.pdf
Oil Seals

and many others

The only place there is to lube on assembly is where there is not constant oil at the seal
I have some of those in one cars clutch housing and use a smear of Krytox

The dry assembly is to promote a transfer of material so the seal is a teflon-teflon interface.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top