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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

I'm thinking about how I can keep the chain completely clear of the valve covers when I install my engine.

My idea is to take the same hook that's on the back of the engine and put another on the front for the install.

I've removed the throttle body.

Anyone have one of these they'd like to sell? Or even a part number?

I've looked and looked...

The Chevy dealership I hope to avoid...

Thanks

ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1426133004.466896.jpg
 

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Could you just make something out of some Flat Steel?

Honestly, there are so many lift points on the enging that you should be able to find some Bolt Holes that would allow you to clear the Valve covers or simply just remove the covers and then reinstall.

I've used a engine tilter with the chains on it and got this on the cheap at Harbor Freight and used it a few times.



With the chain, you got lots of options to mount to the front of the engine and clear the covers. You could use the Upper Water Pump bolt holes or maybe use some grade 8 Bolts threaded fully into where the Throttle Body Mounts. You could also maybe use longer bolts going into the front of the intake manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Could you just make something out of some Flat Steel?

Honestly, there are so many lift points on the enging that you should be able to find some Bolt Holes that would allow you to clear the Valve covers or simply just remove the covers and then reinstall.

I've used a engine tilter with the chains on it and got this on the cheap at Harbor Freight and used it a few times.



With the chain, you got lots of options to mount to the front of the engine and clear the covers. You could use the Upper Water Pump bolt holes or maybe use some grade 8 Bolts threaded fully into where the Throttle Body Mounts. You could also maybe use longer bolts going into the front of the intake manifold.

You're right, and I may end up doing exactly as you suggest, going off of the heads with whatever bracket I can make.

I really don't want to go off of the intake throttle body holes because they're smaller diameter and don't have much "meat" around the holes.

I'm installing the engine with the tranny and passenger side header installed, so I'm expecting to have the front of the engine a good amount higher than the rear while dropping it in.

That's why I'd like the little bit of extra clearance that bracket would provide.

Then again, I might not be able to find one of these brackets anyway...

Thanks for the reply.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If you want to spend the money, this is an option.
https://www.tpis.com/parts/view/67

That's a good idea. I actually have one of these, but I can't bring myself to trust it with the engine AND tranny and header hanging on four (1/4" I think) bolts.

I have seen pictures of people using it to pull engine and tranny together, but I don't want to be the one to find out it was a bad idea.

Also, I have a good load leveler that I picked up in a pawn shop, and the engine needs to be mounted fore and aft to be able to adjust it.

If I was pulling the engine by itself, I wouldn't hesitate to use it.

My tranny is about 150lbs dry, add to that a heavy flywheel and steel scatter shield, header... It starts adding up.

Thanks
 

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I have done a few motor installs and pulls.


The best I found was the 91-93 B-Body cars with a 305 has the engine pulling bracket on the front part of the motor, but it has a slight curve to it as it is near the thermostat on those years.

I threw it in a vice and straightened it (literally took 2 mins) and ground the one side to fit right where the coil is located,and it uses one hole on the air pump on the LT1 car.

It is a perfect fit, allows you to use the back engine bracket and this modified one. Does not hit the valve covers and keeps the chain straight and inline. Plus it is cheap and nice to have on hand when you need to tackle this job.

I will get you a picture of that bracket I modified when I get home tonight.
 

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The HF load leveler is nearly impossible to adjust with the weight of the engine and trans hanging on it. A good mod to the unit is to weld a large nut to the end of the screw in place of the handle, and adjust it with an impact driver (I saw this done on Fast and Loud). The load leveler held the weight of the engine and trans without an issue. You should grease the threads as well.
 

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The HF part is less than $40. It works the same way.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have a similar one myself, $15 from my local pawn shop, this is the one I plan to use to drop the engine in. Here's a picture of it next to the POS I bought from Northern Tool, that I used to pull the engine..

I will add its not IMPOSSIBLE to adjust it with the weight of the engine and tranny hanging on it.

It did take a bit of force though, as you can see from the handle... :)

Still looking for a bracket though. :)

Thanks for all the advice.

ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1426201835.220650.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #13
This is the bracket off the 91-93 B-Cars








THANKS!

So this bolts to the head? Are the holes about 2" on center?

Appreciate the help. I see some of these around, but I have no way to tell the size.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Now I understand, it mounts to the intake bolts. I cheated and looked in the Roadmaster.

Call me paranoid, but I don't want to mess with the intake bolts considering Karl did such a good job sealing it.

Anyway, I found exactly the part I was looking for. From how much I had to search to find it, it's the only one in the world...

$25 isn't cheap, but I think it will make the install go a bit easier, and I need all the help I can get!

Thanks again everyone for the help with this.

ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1426218083.967635.jpg
 

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That will not help you out my man........

I tried that option as well before using the one I posted above.


The identical one does not match up to the holes.

See the one I posted its a perfect fit for when you remove the coil. 2-9/16 headed bolts that attach to the head/block.

If I recall correct I actually didnt take out the bend and just used it upside down and it fit perfectly.

I can measure the hold space
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Oops......

I thought the heads were the same on each side. I'm wrong?

So the one you have you didn't mount it to the intake bolts? That's the stock position, or at least how it sits in the Roadmaster.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So it sits like this?

ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1426219685.074441.jpg

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I was thinking the bracket I got would mount diagonally to the front of the drivers side head.

Oh well..,
 

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Here are the measurements, I just got rid of the bare block I had at my place I was working on. Otherwise I could have mounted it and took pictures but I do not. The picture you posted is the correct year and bracket. I will save the photo in case anyone else needs to reference this. You are also right it does mount diagonal on the driver side head, but you need to remove the coil and I wanna say the air pump bracket. I know I used one or two of those holes and swiveled this bracket in the backward position. It worked like a charm, rob the one off you Buick and save yourself the money. I hope this helps you.


 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks, I'll be looking for a one of these.
 
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