Going to the auction. ---seeking advice - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-21-2002, 01:10 AM
tgeo
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Well the little 9c1 I've been waiting for is finally going to auction. [img]smile.gif[/img] Here's my dilema; I've bought several new and used cars from dealerships but I have never bought anything from an auction (actually I've never attended an auction before). I was hoping you all could give me some insight and or advice.

I've had the opportunity to already drive the 9C1 while it was still in service. The caprice has <70,xxx miles on her, still relativily young as far as a 9c1 goes.

The maintaince on the car looks good, my wife works for the local municipality so she has access to the records.
It looks like the Felpro gasket was already installed at the dealer "F2003 - RR DIFFER GSKT RPL". So the diff "should" be good but I'll do some PM on it just to be sure.


Thanks in advance and
Cheers

Tracy
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-21-2002, 01:20 AM
coprice
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tgeo,

#1 Obtain Wife's permission
#2 Go to http://www.edmunds.com get TRADE IN value price
#3 Bid up to the TRADE IN value price
#4 You are now on your own...

George

[ 08-21-2002: Message edited by: XBOXROX ]
post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-21-2002, 08:45 AM
txstinkbug
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I wouldn't think edmunds applies to 9C1s since they are not listed and they are municipal cars.???
 
post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-21-2002, 11:16 AM
coprice
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After I learned that the professional bidders [car dealers, taxi companies, etc..] go by the "Trade-in Value" and that Edmunds has this info; I figured [just like the professional bidders] that a Caprice was a Caprice 9C1 or not. These bidders use the regular Caprice trade in value minus any costs for repairing listed problems or damage to the cars. Edmunds of course calculates Trade In Value by taking into consideration options, mileage, overall condition which is the same thing... If you can get a car for it's trade in value then you did real good; good luck bidding. George
post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-21-2002, 11:52 AM
The_Whale
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Watch carefully that someone is actually bidding against you. This may seem obvious, but if an auctioneer thinks you don;t know what you are doing they will run the price up on you.

Don't be in a rush to make the next bid, that way he won't think your too eager to go higher.

Ive SEEN it happen.
post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-21-2002, 08:24 PM
'94XTHP
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Yup, what The Whale said. I always look at it this way: If I ever felt like I way overbid on something, I remember that the guy I outbid was only $50 or $100 from being the idiot that actually bought it, so it must not have been too bad of a deal. If your gut says the price has gone up too high, follow your instinct and let the other guy pay too much. An auction proves the reality that any given object is worth what someone will pay. A book is a guideline, but there are MANY other factors. Are there going to be 25 9C1s, or are there 2 at this auction? You get the idea.
post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-21-2002, 08:57 PM
kcclark
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1) Don't be the first bidder unless the bid is VERY low, like $100 (you could get the car for way less than you ever imagined). I've seen a few newbies be the only bid because they jumped in way too high.

2) KNOW your absolute limit so you're not second guessing yourself during the auction.

3) I don't agree with Whale about bid speed. How fast to bid and the technique you use really varies based on your competition (and they really only matter when your competition is not auction savvy). You need a bunch of auctions under your belt before you should start thinking about stuff like this.

4) Be prepared not to get the car. People that aren't familiar with the car's true value will quite often bid more than the car is worth. Guys with a hard-on for the car will go too high. Lastly, newbies (like yourself) will get caught up in the bidding process and not stop when they should (usual suspect is a woman at her first auction).

Anyway, since this is your first auction, I suggest you just be calm, make sure you are where the auctioneer can easily see you, make bids up to your pre-determined limit and don't get worked up about what the competition might be thinking/doing.

Good luck.

KC
post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-21-2002, 09:15 PM
coprice
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I agree with all the good info here; I have bought two cars from State auctions one is my Caprice. Look for the folder of all maintenance records on the passenger seat; it will be evident if only one person drove the car from these records. Don't let high mileage scare you away from bidding on a car or low mileage make you think it is a good car. Forget the mileage High or Low and concentrate on those records and the car itself. One broken headlight lens costs $250.00 to replace but bad tires should be expected and plan to buy new tires. A car with higher mileage than most, may just be a jewel in disguise with a near new transmission and engine or the car that was driven by only one person. I don't know electrical stuff; so if the auction inventory list says Item # 324 has electrical problems and I look under the hood and see alternator missing and wires just cut off everywhere, I stay away from the car. Nice factory paint is worth a lot; repaints are not cheap; if they are then they don't shine or last. Water & rust stains in the engine compartment scare me a little; makes me wonder if only the radiator is going soon or will there be a leaking head gasket problem? Don't be afraid of a car that has been wrecked; look at the body work & the records; chances are it has been restored to new condition. If it still has damage; avoid the sucker..! Read the repair records; mine said straightened frame to factory specs, etc, etc... Lastly, options help you choose which car is worth more; more options = more better... Try to go one day early & preview the cars; if one you like says: "Transmission Problems" find out how much it costs to replace the transmission before the auction [this info can be your ace in the hole]..! So far, the only above board auctions I have witnessed are govt, city, county, state, etc... while all the private have been crooked as all hell..! They put their own employees into the stands to make false bids against you and as far as I know it is all legal..! Last two tips: Get near to & listen to the car when they start it up [tailpipe smoke color?] and go in the winter on the worst & coldest, rainiest day because everyone else will be home in bed... Good Luck Bidding... George

EDITS: TRADE-IN VALUE <---- KNOW IT & BID IT

[ 08-21-2002: Message edited by: XBOXROX ]
post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-22-2002, 02:10 AM
McThag
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Take it from somebody who's been there.

I overbid BIG time. I dropped almost $8k on a 1991 civvie Caprice (LO3) in 1996. The car had no hoses or headlight cells.

I was pre-approved by my bank to $9k, and that was my limit, but the car was worth less than what I paid. [img]5.gif[/img]

Don't get caught in the moment, let it go once it has passed more than it is really worth. I could have had a better '94, if I had waited, for $5k.
post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-22-2002, 06:20 AM
super10
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What I always do when I go to a auction I find some one I know that goes and buys allot of stuff and get them to bid on it for me. When people see a newbie is bidding they will run the crap up so fast. These poeple will pay way more than it is worth just so that you won't get it. I have been there many times, I should have won some things I needed but some Jack Ass ran it up. Also people that are there all the time have other bidders respect and will pass one up when they see who is bidding. Find some one to bid on it for you and give them $100 for getting it for you. It might work out so you don't have to pay sales tax if the guy is a dealer.
Kevin
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