What should I expect to go bad ?? - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-28-2002, 08:44 PM
capriceutah
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I have '95 caprice with the 4.3 liter with 10200 miles. Its been a pretty good car except for the damn squeeky brakes.Lately it seems I have had a loss of power(besides being a 4.3 liter)What should I look at?? You guys seem to be very knowledgable!!

Thanks,
Chris
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-28-2002, 11:19 PM
cheavy
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Be more specific. Is that 10,200 ... or 102,000? Loss of power when? During what position on the throttle?
For example, if driving away from a stopsign or redlight feels sluggish followed by what appears to be a delayed normal response, separate your MAF from your AIRpump so that the AIRpump (which is probably bad now) ceases to breathe moist, dirty exhaust air onto your MAF.
If throttle response gets worse the more you step on it, get under an extremely dark spot, pop open the hood, and search for sparks. If you see any, replace those ignition components guilty of leaking current.
Either way, now's a good time for an EGR Valve & Solenoid replacement ... unless it's only 10,200.
post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-29-2002, 11:00 AM
capriceutah
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Cheavy,
Its 102,000 an I have tested the EGR by pushing in the diapham and from that point it seems good!! Is there another way I should test it. Can I leave the maf and airpump disconnected for long periods of time??? Is there any suggestion on the brake squeal??? Thanks for your help,
Chris
 
post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-29-2002, 11:52 AM
cheavy
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Since you own a 95, go to a GM dealership and have them address this TSB: www.b-body.net/technical/TSB/01-06-04-011/index.html
Read the whole thing, and you'll understand why there is a movement among this forum to just ditch the AIRpump altogether.
Disconnecting the AIRpump requires reprogramming. For now, what you can do is separate the AIRpump intake from the engine intake so that the AIRpump can't breathe onto the MAF. I forgot to mention that you should clean the MAF very carefully, but do clean it.
As far as the EGR is concerned, if you can somehow repeat that test under relatively severe operating conditions (after impersonating a cabdriver, for example), those results would be more relevant.
So when are you experiencing this loss of power? Give examples.
Do you know which brakes are squealing, and when? Give examples.
Here to help.
post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-29-2002, 12:17 PM
Knightshade
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Disconnecting the AIR pump does -not- require a PCM reprogram in a 95. Just leave the fuse in the box and you should be fine. I ran that way for a month or so with stock 95 programming. Now, it's probably a good idea to get it done eventually, but it's not required.
post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-29-2002, 12:48 PM
cheavy
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OK, Knightshade:
1. You're right about leaving the fuse in. Disconnecting the AIRpump's connector is the recommended way of disabling the pump.
2. I simply did'nt want to convey that it's OK to just sever the power to the AIRpump and forget about it. Doing so for more than a month - especially a cold month - is not recommended. However, you can get away with it for the short term.
Utah: The concern is that, w/out the reprogramming, a rich mixture will hit the cold cats, which could clog them up over a period of time somewhat longer than a month. The AIRpump assisted in lighting off this rich mixture. The reprogramming consists of a slightly higher idle RPM, a slight change in idle sparktiming, and a slight leaning out of the idle fuelmix.
Here's something else that isn't necessary, but recommended: www.pcmforless.com
He can take care of this for you (even if you have an L99), and at the same time, squeeze a bit more power or fuel economy from your li'l1. I sincerely believe in his work, as he has done good stuff for my girlfriend's 9C1. Best of all, he stays up-to-date on GM PCM TSBs and will update you for FREEE!
post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-29-2002, 06:30 PM
capriceutah
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With the pcm reprograming!! Would you suggest I sent this to him or could I do the updates myself. I'am very computer literate!!
With my brakes it just squeeks when there applied at a light or stop sign or when I'm stopping!! Also would the pcm program be able to help diagnose problems or give me codes to such problems. Also what are the minimum system requirements for the program.
Thanks for all your info.
Chris
post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-29-2002, 06:52 PM
cheavy
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Utah:
Send your PCM q?s to the PCM section. Computer-literate and PCM-literate are two similar, yet extremely different things.
Sorry to say that anything I guess regarding your brakes wouldn't be an educated guess, but here goes:
Loose pads. If you step on the brake HARD (not quite ABS though) from say, 45 to 75 mph, do you still get this squeak? If not, I'd say your pads are loose. If so, your pads[or rotors]are not wearing down evenly, and are clawing on the rotors[or pads]. Just my dumb guess.
You say you were experiencing a power loss of some sort?
post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-29-2002, 07:27 PM
capriceutah
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Its just seems like a horsepower loss and it idles rougher than it used to! I was going to do a tranny fluid change soon to see if maybe I would see a change in the shifting.
Thanks,
Chris
post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-29-2002, 09:17 PM
cheavy
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Regarding power loss, see my 1st reply. I forgot to mention that cleaning your MAF sensor should be considered regular maintenance, and is absolutely necessary if your AIRpump is contaminating your MAF sensor.
You could also try running a big (not the small) bottle of Chevron's Techron in a 1/2 tank of gas. For the full effect, use a lead foot on the gopedal. Speaking of your fuel system, go ahead and replace your fuel filter if you haven't done so since last Dec.
Do the dark garage underhood examination. If you see nothing, turn the lights on, and check all your ignition connections. If your wires are more than 50,000 miles old, it's time for new ones.
Unles your torque converter clutch is getting mixed signals, your transmission should have nothing to do with your rough idle.
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