383 build...need some advice - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-29-2005, 09:17 PM
305ss
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so im going to build a 383, starting from a bones 350 block. first of all, i DO have to get the block bored .030" over correct? this is not a real "budget" build but i dont want to spend a ton of money if you know what i mean. so my first question...the stroker kit. are they all the same? i've noticed a lot of them if not all are made of forged components, do i need this? im not going to be running boost or nitrous. so what are the good kits out there and their prices? thanks in advance...there will be more questions later.
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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-30-2005, 06:26 AM
mass9c1
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A forged rotating assembly is a good way to start building a motor as there will be a solid foundation to work upon should there ever be a need for upgrading.

Speedomotive.com(Mostly GEN 1 SBC, but a few GEN 2 stuff)
cmotorsports.com(whether it be LT1, LS1, L03 or L05)

Speedomotive has a GEN 1 383 rotating assembly for $750 and they also have the same kit but fully forged for $1564.

Even though the regular kit can get you by, the forged kit will take you where you want to go and then some.
post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-30-2005, 06:42 AM
305ss
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how about this kit right here...
http://shop.enginekits.com/osb/itemdetails.cfm?ID=81
 
post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-30-2005, 06:48 AM
96capriceMGR
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That kit as supplied would have the wrong gaskets and meant for a 2 piece rear main which means like 86 and older. IMO people are too quick to jump on the forged bandwagon cast has come a long ways and for the pistons in an NA application the Hyperutetic which are really just a better version of cast are great. If going big nitorus shot or boost then forged starts to make sense.
Really there is one detail you are neglecting year of car I would guess an 91-3 right?
post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-30-2005, 07:23 AM
mass9c1
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So dwayne, you're saying unless your doing some kind of forced induction or N2O you really don't have a need for forging??

I know it contradicts what I just said but I was looking at building a Hypereutectic vortec 383, instead of using the forged stuff.
post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-30-2005, 07:35 AM
96capriceMGR
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Correct, now if you think the power bug will keep biting and might push you to a power adder later then forged makes sense from the "do it once" standpoint.
Want proof of what a non-forged engine can handle just look at the power guys are making with LT1s, hyper pistons, powdered metal rods, and I believe the crank is nodular iron.

I was for a few years involved with a dirt track stockcar team talked to several engine builders and NONE liked forged for those 600hp alky motors turning 6500+rpms.
post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-30-2005, 07:44 AM
mass9c1
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No forced induction for me at all.

So the $750 kit & vortec heads will be good enough.

I figure the build up to be around $3k with my original L05 block.

Then it's on to body work.
post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-30-2005, 08:15 AM
96capriceMGR
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I would talk to them about pistons the first ones in the kit are supposed to give you 11:1 with a 64cc chamber, I would want to shoot lower than that and NOT resort to a thick head gasket to do it. The TRW hyper would give you 9.6 which is more reasonable but maybe a tad low.
Consider having them do the balancing since it looks to be a flat rate and if done local it will be time and material which could easily end up costing much more. Kit looks like a good starting point but you will have to add some cost to it with the balancing and such. I know the LT1 guys like the Scat I beam rods and they are only like $220 a set new might see if they could work something out there but not critical. I would look at doing some light work on the Vortecs and running some non-stock intake think some of the Edelbrocks can be made to work well.

Back to the earlier question about overbore you are going to have to overbore it some you could likely get away with just .010 which ends up being smaller than 383 by a little but I would overbore it wrong place to try to save a buck.
post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-30-2005, 09:24 AM
305ss
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yes its going in a 91..
isnt it true that all 350 blocks are the same, i mean the 1-piece 2-piece seal is just crankshaft dependent isnt it?
post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-30-2005, 10:14 AM
mass9c1
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Not to sound like an a**, but If they were the same they'd all be either 1 piece or 2 piece.

They do make conversion kit to go from 1-piece>2-piece and vice versa.


Yes they are crankshaft dependent & also block dependent. So you can't put a 1piece crank on a 2 piece block or vice versa as they won't seal properly.
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