Centering Rear Wheels - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 11-18-2016, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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Centering Rear Wheels

Since I need to get my fancy carbon fiber drive shaft repaired anyway, I am going to go ahead and have them make it longer this time so I can center the rear wheels. Is the correct distance to move the rear axle back 5/8 inch or 3/4 inch? I've now seen both and I'm trying to figure out what to add to my current driveshaft measurements as well as figure out what the correct extension is for the control arms.

Also, what is the current best in class for extended control arms? One option I was considering was ordering Dick Miller's suspension package and get his adjustable upper and lower control arms. Does anybody know if they'll accomodate this?

Finally, am I also looking at new brake lines in the rear? I've got braided stainless and they're in great shape so, ideally not. Thanks.

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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 11-18-2016, 11:30 AM
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With selections starting YEARS ago based on "true centering" at 3/4" to "best compromise without getting queasy over decreased spline contact" at 1/2", there are now numerous makers that offer either. Months back I learned about someone marketing 5/8" sets presumably to split the difference.

As far as "current best in class" that's semi-subjective. There's structural tube, structural pipe and milled billet aluminum, with likely several fabbers of each. You can get a variety of bushings - rubber, poly, and swivel style to answer concerns over torsion bind through severe travel - especially on the top arms (some guys leave the oem rubber or install new rubber) and again on the lowers if using monstrous stab bar. I hear the cure for not twisting the lowers to hell is installing a Panther body stab bar.

You may have seen my thread regarding too-tight fit trying to install a 3/4" longer DS with 3/4" extended arms that are adjusted a little less than full extension. You're in better shape - you can just pick your favorite length and then style and brand, and just extend the DS accordingly to your actual. Some guys are concerned with the spring perch getting shifted too far with the longer extensions.

For D. Miller stuff I'd just Search/google or just call them. Other smarter guys can add more. How did you hurt your CF DS?

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 11-18-2016, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks. Your thread was one of the things that got me thinking I wanted to post, since you're having an issue with yours. I figured I would put a call into DM and ask but thought it was worth seeing if anybody here has experience. No idea why the driveshaft gave out. It certainly wasn't the powah.

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