Steering box fitting sizes??? - Chevy Impala SS Forum
 4Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 74 (permalink) Old 11-18-2016, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
smelonas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 566
 
Steering box fitting sizes???

I searched, I tried many different searches and read a lot of threads to no avail. One thread was on here where the guy added one of those tube coolers.

I did find a small amount of info about the style they are (inverted flare?) but not the size. Go figure.

I see pictures on rockauto of the end as well, and of course its the same style that go into the back of the PS pump.

So I guess now my question changes mid post.. Can I just use an inverted flare fitting? or will I need to find a compression fitting to clamp on the hard line wherever I decide to cut it? What is the OD if I decide to go compression? I would look myself, but my car is at home and I would like to order this stuff now. Need to get a damn flaring tool really.

With this, I am trying to add a PS cooler to my system, since I overheat the living crap out of it!! Thanks dallas.

94 RMSB 170K Sat 5 years, ran for 1 of those then remained untouched for 4. Sat because it was slapped by a deer and the owners didnt want to fix it for whatever reason.
Mods, all the free good ones.
Future? Probably pull engine, reseal it, and run it a lot more. Looking to get 250k out of it. PRAYING for 300k.

Last edited by smelonas; 11-18-2016 at 02:10 PM.
smelonas is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 74 (permalink) Old 11-18-2016, 04:29 PM
Senior Member
 
4DoorSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Beautiful Chester County, PA
Posts: 7,968
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by smelonas View Post
I searched, I tried many different searches and read a lot of threads to no avail. One thread was on here where the guy added one of those tube coolers.

I did find a small amount of info about the style they are (inverted flare?) but not the size. Go figure.

I see pictures on rockauto of the end as well, and of course its the same style that go into the back of the PS pump.

So I guess now my question changes mid post.. Can I just use an inverted flare fitting? or will I need to find a compression fitting to clamp on the hard line wherever I decide to cut it? What is the OD if I decide to go compression? I would look myself, but my car is at home and I would like to order this stuff now. Need to get a damn flaring tool really.

With this, I am trying to add a PS cooler to my system, since I overheat the living crap out of it!! Thanks dallas.
I guess you're talking about the fitting or nut size of the hose end? If so, I seem to remember they were in the 16 -19mm range but not certain as I have a set of flare wrenches and can't remember which was which. I looked up specs on the pressure hose and it shows the 2 sizes there for the fittings. Looks like the pressure hose is 16mm and 18mm on the other end

MasterPro Power Steering Hose 91780 - Power Steering Hose | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Keep in mind that these fittings are specialized and have an o-ring on them. If you want to convert over to something else, Russell and others carry these fittings to use.

It also sounds like you are considering cutting the line and going with compression fittings. I would not do this on the pressure side since the pressure will exceed the rating of that. You may be ok to do that on the return side though.

You can add a stock cooler made for the 9C1 (police package) cars. The return hose for this car is about $11 more than the standard return hose. I added this setup along with an inline filter and there is instructions on what you need to do this factory setup in I think the impalass technical archives.

================================================== =============


'95 Caprice SS conversion - Bonny Buckets - 96 Column, Shifter and Console - 3.73 Gear and Herter tune - Z/28 Cluster - Blazer OH Console - Green/Pink bushings - Chromed Impala Wheels - Eibach Springs and Bilstein Shocks - Corvette Engine Dress - the list goes on and still more to do...it never ends.
4DoorSS is offline  
post #3 of 74 (permalink) Old 11-18-2016, 05:28 PM
Senior Member
 
Fred Kiehl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Largo, FL 33774
Posts: 10,838
 
You can only put the cooler on the return side. The OEM cooler line is just a piece of metal line. You could make a zigzag or coil the line yourself to give it more length for more cooling. Regular hose clamps will work fine, and you can make an unfinished double flare to act as a flange to keep the hose from slipping off.

1991 OCC 461 (.030 over 454) BBC, 3.23 posi, flash to pass, drop spindles & springs, Impala rims, Hydroboost, Recaros, MOMO/wood SW w/QR, custom wood shift knob, Pioneer DEH P77DH
1992 OCC now with 5.7 tbi, DEH P77DH
For a parts list, check https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...ion-parts.html
Fred Kiehl is offline  
 
post #4 of 74 (permalink) Old 11-18-2016, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
smelonas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 566
 
The technical archives don't work for me. The site is there but the links don't work...

Yes, I wanted to add a cooler on the return side of course. I think I'll do it close to the same way I did my tranny cooler. I ordered a 12 by 7.5 inch derale cooler. It's fittings are 3/8 barb. I guess I'll just plumb that in with barb fittings and hose clamps.

Good to know that companies makes that goofy extended flare fitting that goes in and out of the steering box. I boiled the fluid the other day in traffic so this has become a big rush thing to get this done now. I wanted to do one before but I was going to wait....

Also I was asking for the fitting size. So thread diameter, not nut size. But thanks anyway! Still good to know!

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

94 RMSB 170K Sat 5 years, ran for 1 of those then remained untouched for 4. Sat because it was slapped by a deer and the owners didnt want to fix it for whatever reason.
Mods, all the free good ones.
Future? Probably pull engine, reseal it, and run it a lot more. Looking to get 250k out of it. PRAYING for 300k.

Last edited by smelonas; 11-18-2016 at 07:49 PM.
smelonas is offline  
post #5 of 74 (permalink) Old 11-18-2016, 09:39 PM
Senior Member
 
4DoorSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Beautiful Chester County, PA
Posts: 7,968
 
That Derale cooler sounds nice, post up some pics when you get it done.


Here is the 9C1 Cooler/Return hose from AZ for only $30 and fit just like GM....the standard return line for the Impala is about $20.





It just Zig-Zags along the bottom of the Rad Support and back to the Reservoir.


Here is the CUTnPASTE of the 9C1 Cooler Mod from Goldsswagon.com site....


Installing the SEO Power Steering Cooler




Advantages

Keeps the power steering fluid cooler than the just the stock unit, which is a good thing, especially if you autocross you beast.

Disadvantages

Additional hose routing needed, blocks some flow to the radiator.

Parts Required:


  • 1 Pipe Assembly, (GM P/N 26036034), $???
  • 2 Clamp-Lo (GM P/N 2091638), $???
  • 10 pack of bolts, (GM P/N 11509363), $???
  • 2 Nut, RR BP, (GM P/N 12337917), $???
  • 32 oz of GM Power Steering Fluid
Total cost is around $50.

Tools Needed:


  • 10mm wrench
  • 8mm wrench
  • Floor Jack
  • Creeper or something else to lay on underneath the car
Procedure (from Basim Jaber):



  1. Park the car, place blocks at rear tires, and set the parking brake.
  2. Siphon, pump, or drain the power steering fluid from the reservoir.
  3. Detach the reservoir from the bracket (it slides up), and detach the fluid line from the reservoir. This is the one closest to the front of the car. Save all of the protective sheething for reuse later!
  4. Tape up the end of fluid reservoir line to avoid spillage
  5. Jack up car and remove the clips that hold the two power steering lines. Tthey are under the motor along the frame cross member.
  6. Slide the plastic steering shaft cover off of the power steering fitting and unhook the two fittings from the power steering gear. Beware: this is a knucklebuster job! Use an 18mm wrench here, and watch out for draining fluid. Unhook the forward one first.
  7. Remove the power steering line in question that is to be replaced with SEO 7L9 tube assembly.
  8. Insert the tube assembly. The RH side goes under the coolant hose, and the LH side goes underneath (or possibly between, if it will fit) the oil cooler lines. Getting the RH side underneath the coolant hose will be snug, so hang in there.
  9. Hook up the cooler hose line to the reservoir using the stock clamp, and slide the reservoir back onto the bracket.
  10. Install the screws that hold the tube to the radiator frame housing using a 10mm wrench. Tighten them later, after fitting everything else, especially the cooler fitting to the power steering gear.
  11. Install the SEO cooler fitting to the power steering gear and tighten well. Note that if you take off the left wheel, there's more clearance to get a wrench in there from the side.
  12. Slide the plastic shaft cover back over the fitting.
  13. Install the stock inflow line back into the power steering gear and tighten well.
  14. Fill the reservoir with new fluid. Fill until the "C" mark (full cold) on reservoir cap is reached.
  15. With cap off reservoir, turn the wheels lock to lock 40 times.
  16. Lower car to ground, and check that fluid level is still at "C". Add if necessary
  17. Start the car, and turn the wheels lock to lock for two minutes.
  18. Check the fluid again, and add as necessary.
  19. Replace the fluid reservoir cap.
The hardest part of this mod is disconnecting/connecting the fittings to the p/s gear unit. There isn't much hand room and the wrench can only turn about a 1/8th of a turn in either direction. Consult the service manual for the standard precautions and more information on this mod.

A few pics of my install and the little Filter I spliced in near the Battery before going back to the Reservoir...



smelonas likes this.

================================================== =============


'95 Caprice SS conversion - Bonny Buckets - 96 Column, Shifter and Console - 3.73 Gear and Herter tune - Z/28 Cluster - Blazer OH Console - Green/Pink bushings - Chromed Impala Wheels - Eibach Springs and Bilstein Shocks - Corvette Engine Dress - the list goes on and still more to do...it never ends.

Last edited by 4DoorSS; 11-18-2016 at 09:57 PM.
4DoorSS is offline  
post #6 of 74 (permalink) Old 11-19-2016, 06:24 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
smelonas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 566
 
Nice! Sweet. I saw your post as I was searching, pretty nice little setup!

Yeah I'm going to go for real on this cooler. Thought of doing a 2 or 4 pass one, but I thought to myself, well I'm going to be in it this far... lol it will look exactly like my tranny cooler.

Here's my plan, take the metal return line at the gear and cut it, add compression and barb fitting. Route 3/8 hose around rad to top inlet of cooler. Then go straight from cooler to reservoir. That last step will probably occupy an hour of my time. I need to make sure it is routed as smoothly as possible to allow 3 gallons per minute of flow.

There can be no backpressure. That's what Steve over at LEEs told me.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

94 RMSB 170K Sat 5 years, ran for 1 of those then remained untouched for 4. Sat because it was slapped by a deer and the owners didnt want to fix it for whatever reason.
Mods, all the free good ones.
Future? Probably pull engine, reseal it, and run it a lot more. Looking to get 250k out of it. PRAYING for 300k.
smelonas is offline  
post #7 of 74 (permalink) Old 11-19-2016, 09:04 AM
Senior Member
 
juniorwatson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Georgetown, TX
Posts: 2,490
 
OP, As an FYI I have both of these lines new in the bag in the trunk of my car.

I was going to replace them when I installed my rebuilt P/S pump, but I could not break the fittings loose on the gear box at all.

So I decided that will be a future project when I have some room to play around when I install the rebuilt engine I have in storage.

If you want any pictures or details, let me know.

The size of the hex fitting in the gearbox was 16MM, I don't recall if it was 18 or 16 on the back of the pump, but I'm leaning toward 16.

Clear Image Tri-Ys & Hi-Flow cats >> 2.5" X-Pipe & Magnaflow Tri-Chambers, Mike Harris 4L60E, Circle-D 2,400 RPM TC, All MOOG FT End & Del-A-Lum bushed MOOG CTRL Arms, Eibach FT & New Stock HT rear springs. Hotchkis Sway Bars & End Links, RAISS, 3.73 Gears in Eaton carrier, Dynoshaft & CIA Loop, BMR Trailing Arms, Braided Brake Hoses, Taylor Spiro-Pro Wires, AutoMeter Water Temp & Oil PSI Gauges, Impala Console. ATE Blue Brake Fluid. Skip White distributor. 20's, Z28 Cluster, Corbeau GTS Seat
juniorwatson is offline  
post #8 of 74 (permalink) Old 11-19-2016, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
smelonas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 566
 
I borrowed my buddies flare wrench set to do my PS pump. I think they were 5/8 or 11/16. Came right loose.

Have you guys tried putting Kroil or PB on those bolts at the gear a long time before you planned on taking it apart? I sprayed the cooler fittings on my radiator with that stuff a month before I planned on replacing it. They literally came right off. Where as before I sprayed them, I tested how easily they would come off and they would not budge.

Try putting that stuff on a few weeks before. It should really get in there and those fittings should just pop right off.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

94 RMSB 170K Sat 5 years, ran for 1 of those then remained untouched for 4. Sat because it was slapped by a deer and the owners didnt want to fix it for whatever reason.
Mods, all the free good ones.
Future? Probably pull engine, reseal it, and run it a lot more. Looking to get 250k out of it. PRAYING for 300k.

Last edited by smelonas; 11-19-2016 at 09:42 AM.
smelonas is offline  
post #9 of 74 (permalink) Old 11-19-2016, 01:24 PM
Senior Member
 
4DoorSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Beautiful Chester County, PA
Posts: 7,968
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by smelonas View Post
Nice! Sweet. I saw your post as I was searching, pretty nice little setup!

Yeah I'm going to go for real on this cooler. Thought of doing a 2 or 4 pass one, but I thought to myself, well I'm going to be in it this far... lol it will look exactly like my tranny cooler.

Here's my plan, take the metal return line at the gear and cut it, add compression and barb fitting. Route 3/8 hose around rad to top inlet of cooler. Then go straight from cooler to reservoir. That last step will probably occupy an hour of my time. I need to make sure it is routed as smoothly as possible to allow 3 gallons per minute of flow.

There can be no backpressure. That's what Steve over at LEEs told me.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Are you mounting the cooler up next to the stock ext tranny cooler where the stock engine oil cooler goes? I've also seen someone had a finned tubular style cooler they ran the length of the rad support.

If I was putting the cooler up front and wasn't going AN and braided, compression fittings would be the next best thing like your considering. Rather than running rubber hose through the rad support and back o the reservoir, I may try to run some steel line that you could bend up. Then cover that line with rubber hose where it passes through tight areas. You could probably get real tight to the frame and keep the line more secured than rubber hose. Maybe even borrow some items/ideas from the 9c1 setup.

Quote:
Originally Posted by smelonas View Post
I borrowed my buddies flare wrench set to do my PS pump. I think they were 5/8 or 11/16. Came right loose.

Have you guys tried putting Kroil or PB on those bolts at the gear a long time before you planned on taking it apart? I sprayed the cooler fittings on my radiator with that stuff a month before I planned on replacing it. They literally came right off. Where as before I sprayed them, I tested how easily they would come off and they would not budge.

Try putting that stuff on a few weeks before. It should really get in there and those fittings should just pop right off.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Use PB Blaseter myself and good idea to soak them fittings for days. A lot of the "stickiness" of the fitting is it gets fused to the metal line and can often twist the metal line as you back out the fitting. I like to get as close as I can to the back of the fitting and the steel line with emery cloth and clean the fitting/metal line of rust and crud. Then before backing off the fitting, try to give it a little tighten first to break the seal.

================================================== =============


'95 Caprice SS conversion - Bonny Buckets - 96 Column, Shifter and Console - 3.73 Gear and Herter tune - Z/28 Cluster - Blazer OH Console - Green/Pink bushings - Chromed Impala Wheels - Eibach Springs and Bilstein Shocks - Corvette Engine Dress - the list goes on and still more to do...it never ends.
4DoorSS is offline  
post #10 of 74 (permalink) Old 11-19-2016, 03:02 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
smelonas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 566
 
Yes! Tighten to loosen has always been a lost forgotten trick. Dumbest sounding thing ever, but it works as a last resort.

If you look at my post for my tranny cooler, it will literally be a mirror of that. So basically any airflow going through the grille will have to pass through one of the two coolers lol. Or go underneath them... either way. I'll just snake the line around the radiator support like the stock steel tranny lines and them go from there.

Should be extremely effective and easy to do. I need this fluid to stay cold. If I could keep it at 80 degrees, I would. Not being able to use synthetic really blows this whole system up ya know?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

94 RMSB 170K Sat 5 years, ran for 1 of those then remained untouched for 4. Sat because it was slapped by a deer and the owners didnt want to fix it for whatever reason.
Mods, all the free good ones.
Future? Probably pull engine, reseal it, and run it a lot more. Looking to get 250k out of it. PRAYING for 300k.
smelonas is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Chevy Impala SS Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome