Sway bar bushing mounting holes being stripped. - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-27-2016, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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Sway bar bushing mounting holes being stripped.

Has any one have come across the the holes for the bushings being stripped and possible repairs?
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-27-2016, 05:55 PM
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Has any one have come across the the holes for the bushings being stripped and possible repairs?
Not on mine but people have reported they had striped threads. Chase the threads with a thread chaser bit whatever the size the bolt is. You may be able to just fix" it that way. If the bolt threads are also FU, just get another bolt

or....drill stripped mount out next size larger and re-tap threads for that size and get a new bolt that size

There is a member on this forum who fished grade 8 bolts through the frame basically leaving threaded studs sticking out then he used nuts over the bar bushing clamp IIRC

so you have options

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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-27-2016, 06:36 PM
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After logging in just click the SEARCH button and type "Sway bar stripped hole" and it will turn up a bunch of threads you can look at. Be sure to check post #4 for links Bill has posted.

https://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...le-repair.html

Lots of other good threads the search will bring up for you.

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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-27-2016, 08:41 PM
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I read the links, and believe the best remedy is the nutserts from Aircraft Spruce would be the easiest and most reliable method (you may be able to get the nutserts locally as well). Just pick the closest size to the original screws in SAE, and drill out the holes to the size required. You can make an installation tool with a long cap head socket screw, washer, and nut. Push the nutsert in the hole with the washer between the nutsert and the nut on the screw. Turn the nut, while holding the screw from moving, to pull the back of the nutsert against the inside of the frame, then remove the screw with the nut and washer (repeat for each screw hole). The nutserts are SAE threaded, so you can use cap head socket screws to replace the original ones.


Wagon guys, you can use the same type of tool to tighten the nutserts for your roof rack rails.

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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-27-2016, 08:44 PM
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Or,tap to 7/16-14.and use allen-head cap screws...
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-27-2016, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks fro the help guys. I will start looking for the rivetnut to try that.
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-28-2016, 05:38 AM
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Or if you know anyone who can make a pair of blocks and weld it in place. I had to do that on my 9C1. I modeled the part, and made a detail drawing and had a toolmaker/machinist at my job make 2 steel blocks from 1/2" material.

I then had a welder buddy arc weld them in place.

So you've got a few options, depending on your abilities.

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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-28-2016, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jojo714 View Post
Thanks fro the help guys. I will start looking for the rivetnut to try that.
I have done many nutserts before . they do work to hold down a cover but a sway bar ???? no don't do it . find a bolt with a fine thread tap out the hole and using a socket allen head bolt will work best. I would not drill it out unless its necessary..
fishing a bolt into the frame so it drops into the damaged hole will work then nut it down.

I would use a strong grade 8 bolt with a fine thread . metric type.
You need a special tool for nutserts anyway ..
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-28-2016, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
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I have done many nutserts before . they do work to hold down a cover but a sway bar ???? no don't do it . find a bolt with a fine thread tap out the hole and using a socket allen head bolt will work best. I would not drill it out unless its necessary..
fishing a bolt into the frame so it drops into the damaged hole will work then nut it down.

I would use a strong grade 8 bolt with a fine thread . metric type.
You need a special tool for nutserts anyway ..
Nutserts hold down large items out in the wind on the roof racks of the wagons. They will hold the roof racks with a bulky item at 60 MPH. With the thin soft frame member threads being substantial enough to hold the bar, the nutserts will be more than sufficient. Since the thin frame is not heat treated steel, you do not need grade 8 bolts. You can get the nutserts in coarse and fine SAE thread. This is easy if you do not overanalyze it.


You can make a homebrew tool as mentioned above, and it does not matter whether it is metric or SAE threads, nor does it matter if you have fine or coarse threads, as the OEM bolts are coarse threads. A few turns of the nut, and the nutsert is installed, no special tool required. The screw, washer and nut for installation should be grade 8, and a little lube would not hurt. Let the nut do the work, hold the screw so it can not turn.

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1992 OCC now with 5.7 tbi, DEH P77DH
For a parts list, check https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...ion-parts.html
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-28-2016, 12:27 PM
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A TIMESERT might be a great solution to this problem. Much better than a helicoil.

The actual TIMESERT itself is made from unobtanium and very strong and should never strip out.

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