Misaligned Idler Arm Hole - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-10-2016, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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Misaligned Idler Arm Hole

-Recently purchased '96 FWB, non-abused 55K miles
-Appears already has a newer replacement stout (MOOG Troubleshooter type quality) Idler arm.
-Steering box-pitman arm both nice and rusty and do not appear ever touched.

I was under it replacing other pieces and noticed the pitman arm side bolt on the center link was cocked at an excessive angle to the arm. So, I figured it was wear and just got a new MOOG center link. I connected the pitman arm side first, and was unable to seat the idler arm side at all - I ended up having to undo one of the two frame bolts just to get the idler arm hole and center link stud seated. I left it loose-nutted at that point, and rather avoiding what will seem like excessive racking the idler arm back to reconnect that second frame bolt.

Question (after no luck with search): Has this popped up before? Are there similar idler arms and apps out there with small enough differences that a shop may have installed (forced on) the wrong one? I'm likely going to just buy an idler arm to rough compare it to what's installed.

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-10-2016, 08:42 PM
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The FW idler arm may be different than the B-body arm. The FW Pittman arm is longer than the B-body Pittman arm. The inner tie rod pivots must be on the same plane as a line through the lower A arm pivot centerlines. If not, you will get bump steer.


It would be nice if there were some pictures of your issue.

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1992 OCC now with 5.7 tbi, DEH P77DH
For a parts list, check https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...ion-parts.html
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2016, 08:20 AM
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I replaced my idler arm passenger side when new since GM used a very poor quality part. got the moog idler arm and when installing it lined up perfectly and is still with no steering issues . OEM arm moved too much up/down new more than 1/8inch.

bolts all lined up as OEM . alignment did not change.

center link could be wrong what is the part number ?

pitman arm should be good unless abused .

Last edited by j cat; 12-11-2016 at 08:22 AM.
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2016, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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Apologize for small pics - Photobucket appears to be experiencing long-standing issues with upload.

Rockauto order for 'un-armoured' app
MOOG
DS1116Center Link$ 57.79$ 0.001$ 57.79
.
I admit failing to check the box it came in for correct number before discarding it, but I've never had a mis-box or bad pick ordering from RA. You see I could have titled the thread 'Misaligned Pitman Arm Hole' if I had connected the Idler side first. Actually, when doing other work underneath I noticed the Pitman side had the centerlink rotated severely "down". I just thought it was wear, - the same way you can manually swivel a tie-rod or balljoint. And with 5X,XXX/20 years it needs replacing anyway. It wasn't until installing the new one I found the ends only rotate on one axis - no swivel.

Fred, Idler Arms on both my cars are the same ~6" c-c pivots. RA shows the same Part K6187T for both apps. On the Pitman arm lengths can you expand? I checked my SS and the Cady and both Pitmans are ~5 1/2" c-c pivots. CAR-ID shows the same Borgeson Part 177566483 for both apps.

For reference, the knuckle with both joints lined up and hand snugged is resting just shy of touching the sway bar. If forcing the idler back to install the second frame bolt you can see a severe bind. And finally, with the old centerlink (already discarded - damm!) on the car it drove perfectly fine. It's a headscratcher for sure.
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\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!

Last edited by 96 Black; 12-11-2016 at 11:52 AM.
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2016, 11:43 AM
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Just looked at mine. That idler arm looks wrong. Verify mounting "leg" isn't spun 180 degrees (if that's even possible) before returning it.
Never throw parts away until satisfied with an R&R in the future...

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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2016, 11:55 AM
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with the parts made today you have to use the old parts to verify it is the proper part. also you said it was all working properly before you did all this ,so keeping the old parts would be good for back up... unless its brake pads and wear items I keep the parts .. .

sometimes buyer will return parts and the part returned is not good or the wrong part then the next guy gets screwed .

96 caddy fleetwood . missed that .impala uses different center link.

Last edited by j cat; 12-11-2016 at 12:07 PM.
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2016, 12:39 PM
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I read where the idler arm for the FW is longer than the Caprice. I have not checked it myself. If the Pittman arm is the same, the idler arm should be the same as well. Other than the stabilizer shock attachment point, and if the Pittman arm and the idler arm are the same, the cross links should be the same.


My computer does not seem to like this site, and I can not pull up the pictures.

1991 OCC 461 (.030 over 454) BBC, 3.23 posi, flash to pass, drop spindles & springs, Impala rims, Hydroboost, Recaros, MOMO/wood SW w/QR, custom wood shift knob, Pioneer DEH P77DH
1992 OCC now with 5.7 tbi, DEH P77DH
For a parts list, check https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...ion-parts.html
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2016, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks. There's nothing better than someone getting reamed for the very same thing they're always preaching about. In this case the foot is on the other hand (mine) :smiles:: I was just so glad to ditch all those old bars and shocks and other junk I'm swapping.

1slow-, thanks you made me look. I do believe that Idler arm is fubered. Remember it was already on the car - I only replaced the centerlink so far. I compared it to my SS and the mounting leg was installed with the same orientation (offset to inboard). However, the leg and arm are pretty much perpendicular on the SS which is clearly NOT the case with this one.
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Just ordered K6187T.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Kiehl View Post
I read where the idler arm for the FW is longer than the Caprice. I have not checked it myself. If the Pittman arm is the same, the idler arm should be the same as well. Other than the stabilizer shock attachment point, and if the Pittman arm and the idler arm are the same, the cross links should be the same.


My computer does not seem to like this site, and I can not pull up the pictures.
Check, and check. For pics sometimes I have to use a different browser. That last one of the removed arm is sure strange comparing to the pic on RA (and the one on my SS).
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\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!

Last edited by 96 Black; 12-11-2016 at 01:33 PM.
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2016, 01:55 PM
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It still looks to me as if the leg with mounting holes needs rotated 180 degrees relative to the rest of the part.Though the top hole looks kinda funny.

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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2016, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1slow96 View Post
It still looks to me as if the leg with mounting holes needs rotated 180 degrees relative to the rest of the part.Though the top hole looks kinda funny.
I tried that, but it then put the knuckle hard into the sway bar before lining the bolt holes in the frame. On the off kilter hole I figured they must press the joint first then jig the holes last. It looks pretty wonky I admit, so maybe it was the $7.50 replacement part and not the $27 MOOG

The arm is clearly bent and while I see nothing on the frame to indicate impact I wished I could have inspected the old centerlink too for damage. I'm banking on a new idler to be the fix.

Part of searching had a thread hinting not to crank down on the castellated nuts to seat the idler and Pitman tapers - use regular nuts first to torque, then the cotter key nuts after.

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!
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