Lower control arm fastener sizes? - Chevy Impala SS Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-25-2017, 02:30 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 178
 
Lower control arm fastener sizes?

I'm needing to replace the lower control arms on this 94 Fleetwood. Unfortunately, circumstances dictate that I have to work on the car away from the majority of my tools, so I need to know what socket and wrench sizes I will need to bring to get the arms off and replaced. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks.

Working on a 1994 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham...
CB700S is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-25-2017, 07:08 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 7,642
 
Front, or rear.


If borrowing stuff remember, for the front, larger American (13/16 or 7/8 for A-arm nut-bolt (at least they're the same size head), 3/4 or less for BJ, smaller maybe 7/16 or 1/2, or metric 12, 13 for end links, 1/2? 12? 13? for shock.

For rears, larger 5/8, 11/16 or 3/4 for arm, smaller ?1/2, 9/16, 5/8 for sway bar.

If rounding up stuff from your own collection, I'd never leave home without a full set of normal American sockets 7/16-1" and 8-20mm. And the same sizes in box/opens. And a 5-gallon pail full of pliers, screwdrivers, prys, hammers, PBR.....

Are you going by plane or something with constraints?

Any more detail you offer will return better info too. Shame, I've got my Cady on stands right now and could make short order of this, - but out of town right now. Dammm

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!
96 Black is offline  
post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-25-2017, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 178
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 96 Black View Post
Front, or rear.


If borrowing stuff remember, for the front, larger American (13/16 or 7/8 for A-arm nut-bolt (at least they're the same size head), 3/4 or less for BJ, smaller maybe 7/16 or 1/2, or metric 12, 13 for end links, 1/2? 12? 13? for shock.

For rears, larger 5/8, 11/16 or 3/4 for arm, smaller ?1/2, 9/16, 5/8 for sway bar.

If rounding up stuff from your own collection, I'd never leave home without a full set of normal American sockets 7/16-1" and 8-20mm. And the same sizes in box/opens. And a 5-gallon pail full of pliers, screwdrivers, prys, hammers, PBR.....

Are you going by plane or something with constraints?

Any more detail you offer will return better info too. Shame, I've got my Cady on stands right now and could make short order of this, - but out of town right now. Dammm
It's the front lower control arms I'll be working on.

The issue is that the storage unit I normally work on cars in is currently undergoing construction and I can't actually pull the Caddy in there at the moment, so I have to work on it in my apartment parking lot - but since my Bronco is down awaiting parts, I won't have any car to go get any tools I forgot back at my unit. My truck's field kit is mostly metric, as the truck is, well, mostly metric, so I wanted to make sure I'd have what I needed with me.

Working on a 1994 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham...
CB700S is online now  
 
post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-25-2017, 10:42 PM
Senior Member
 
Fred Kiehl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Largo, FL 33774
Posts: 10,838
 
When your remove the original bushings, you will have to spread the end plates to get the new arm bushing in. You need a pry bar to get the arm in place as well. You may need a spring compressor to get the springs aligned properly. The BJ will probably not give up easily either. I use a 1/2 inch bolt, nut, washer and 12/13mm long socket as a tool to put pressure on the BJ to remove it. You need a couple of wrenches to hold the bolt, and turn the nut to put pressure on the BJ. There is a picture of how to use it in the Haynes manual for Caprice/Roadmasters. You also need a jack, and stands to support the car while working on it.


If you are going to use a spring compressor, drive the car onto ramps, and allow the car's weight to compress the spring for the most part. Turn the screw until it is just tight to minimize the amount you need to work the compressor.


I would have a taper shaft handy to align the bushings with the holes on the frame, so you can insert the bolts, and a BFH to make fine adjustments.


Plan on getting an alignment after the swap. Your camber will surely be out, and your caster may be also.


As far as having all the tools you need, bring your whole box with you. It is really helpful to have a helper (as long as they are capable of helping).

1991 OCC 461 (.030 over 454) BBC, 3.23 posi, flash to pass, drop spindles & springs, Impala rims, Hydroboost, Recaros, MOMO/wood SW w/QR, custom wood shift knob, Pioneer DEH P77DH
1992 OCC now with 5.7 tbi, DEH P77DH
For a parts list, check https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...ion-parts.html
Fred Kiehl is online now  
post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 02:32 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 178
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Kiehl View Post
When your remove the original bushings, you will have to spread the end plates to get the new arm bushing in. You need a pry bar to get the arm in place as well.
I'm swapping entire control arms (one Moog, one AC Delco, thank you Amazon sales), not just swapping bushings. Is it just that the end plates pull in on install at the factory and you have to pry them back out or does it pull in under use? Or is it just something that happens if you're putting new bushings in the original arms, like they need to be seated?

Quote:
You may need a spring compressor to get the springs aligned properly. The BJ will probably not give up easily either. I use a 1/2 inch bolt, nut, washer and 12/13mm long socket as a tool to put pressure on the BJ to remove it.
I recently did the upper ball joints and they came off pretty easily - they looked to have been replaced some time in the distant past as they weren't riveted but looked old. Would this be at all indicative of how hard the lowers will be to remove?

Quote:
You need a couple of wrenches to hold the bolt, and turn the nut to put pressure on the BJ. There is a picture of how to use it in the Haynes manual for Caprice/Roadmasters. You also need a jack, and stands to support the car while working on it.
I have the jack and stands I used to use on my F-350 and still use on my Bronco, so I think I have enough safe lift available.

I'll have to find the Haynes manual - I have the factory manual here.

Quote:
If you are going to use a spring compressor, drive the car onto ramps, and allow the car's weight to compress the spring for the most part. Turn the screw until it is just tight to minimize the amount you need to work the compressor.
Hm. Any commentary on this? https://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...step-step.html

Quote:
I would have a taper shaft handy to align the bushings with the holes on the frame, so you can insert the bolts, and a BFH to make fine adjustments.
Got those, they're actually standard items in my truck kit.

Quote:
Plan on getting an alignment after the swap. Your camber will surely be out, and your caster may be also.
Yeah, I had figured as much, given past experience. I'd also suspect toe may actually be off as well depending on how much the arms vary.

Quote:
As far as having all the tools you need, bring your whole box with you. It is really helpful to have a helper (as long as they are capable of helping).
Erm, I don't know that hauling out more than 500 pounds of tools (literally), many of them specialty or Whitworth tools that cannot possibly be used on the Cadillac, would be a great idea.

I don't exactly have a small rally box of tools. :P

Working on a 1994 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham...
CB700S is online now  
post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 08:08 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 7,642
 
Now moving into preferred method of R&R front coils. After maybe 8-9 jobs over the decades doing the lower BJ method (and all the grief with spring compressors), I just last week replaced lower BJs by removing the A-arm bushing bolts. The first side took an hour of unsuccessful practice. But, aligning and setting the coil was immensely easier, - but it was impossible keeping the jack from creeping out of position as tension increased. I asked my wife to man the handle which steadied it better, and tried a few positions in order to balance level the arm into both holes simultaneously. BTW I never recalled doing a front coil job without a helper.

As mentioned in the referenced thread, a fat Phillips as a taper pin, -getting that first bolt in to pivot easier for the second one, -gauging the outward arc into the boltholes as the arm raises. The second side took 15 minutes using a mitered 6 x 6 to chock the jack. Next time will likely be 10 minutes per side. And way safer IMO.

I've got several bottle jacks but did not find it any easier trying to combine any in the work.

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!
96 Black is offline  
post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 07:16 PM
Senior Member
 
Fred Kiehl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Largo, FL 33774
Posts: 10,838
 
When I originally posted this "When your remove the original bushings, you will have to spread the end plates to get the new arm bushing in. You need a pry bar to get the arm in place as well." I was not referring to the arms, but the frame mounts. When the bolts are tightened, the frame mounts bend a little, and grip the ends of the center tube of the bushing. The new ones never seem to fit in the same space as the original ones did.


Remember to tighten the bolts with the car's weight on the wheels, so that there is no tension on the rubber part of the bushings.

1991 OCC 461 (.030 over 454) BBC, 3.23 posi, flash to pass, drop spindles & springs, Impala rims, Hydroboost, Recaros, MOMO/wood SW w/QR, custom wood shift knob, Pioneer DEH P77DH
1992 OCC now with 5.7 tbi, DEH P77DH
For a parts list, check https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...ion-parts.html
Fred Kiehl is online now  
post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 07:22 PM
Senior Member
 
Fred Kiehl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Largo, FL 33774
Posts: 10,838
 
I have replaced the lower arm by myself. It was easy with the spring compressed. You do not have to fight with it, and worry about the jack scooting out from under the car with the arm on the jack. If you compress the spring with the weight on the car, you do not have to do a lot of cranking on the center bolt. Removal of the spring compressor is not that big of a deal.


I have done it both ways, and will always use a spring compressor if I have to do it again.

1991 OCC 461 (.030 over 454) BBC, 3.23 posi, flash to pass, drop spindles & springs, Impala rims, Hydroboost, Recaros, MOMO/wood SW w/QR, custom wood shift knob, Pioneer DEH P77DH
1992 OCC now with 5.7 tbi, DEH P77DH
For a parts list, check https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...ion-parts.html
Fred Kiehl is online now  
post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 178
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Kiehl View Post
When I originally posted this "When your remove the original bushings, you will have to spread the end plates to get the new arm bushing in. You need a pry bar to get the arm in place as well." I was not referring to the arms, but the frame mounts. When the bolts are tightened, the frame mounts bend a little, and grip the ends of the center tube of the bushing. The new ones never seem to fit in the same space as the original ones did.
Okay, so will have to pry the mounting ears open a bit. Got it.


Quote:
Remember to tighten the bolts with the car's weight on the wheels, so that there is no tension on the rubber part of the bushings.
Got it.

Working on a 1994 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham...
CB700S is online now  
post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 178
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Kiehl View Post
I have replaced the lower arm by myself. It was easy with the spring compressed. You do not have to fight with it, and worry about the jack scooting out from under the car with the arm on the jack. If you compress the spring with the weight on the car, you do not have to do a lot of cranking on the center bolt. Removal of the spring compressor is not that big of a deal.


I have done it both ways, and will always use a spring compressor if I have to do it again.
What's the preferred type of compressor?

Working on a 1994 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham...
CB700S is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Chevy Impala SS Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome