American Undercar Steering Kit for 94-96 Impala - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-24-2017, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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American Undercar Steering Kit for 94-96 Impala

I was looking to start the process of redoing the entire suspension of my 95 SS , including steering linkage. I was poking around eBay and ran across a rebuild kit from a company called American Undercar . I was wondering if anybody had ever heard of it and/or if it was any good. It seems really inexpensive, which I'm wary of as you tend to get what you pay for. They say it's made in the USA and what-not... If this is bunk are there any kits out there that folks might recommend? I'd actually prefer something a little more performance oriented than direct factory replacement, but I'm not really sure where to start. Thanks!

1995 SS: F-Body bucket seats, 9C1 rubber floor, black billet grille, smoke headlights with HID conversion kit, 13" grant steering wheel, cold air intake, 50-state hooker headers, probably some other stuff done to it that I don't even know about...
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-24-2017, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spacedock510 View Post
I was looking to start the process of redoing the entire suspension of my 95 SS , including steering linkage. I was poking around eBay and ran across a rebuild kit from a company called American Undercar . I was wondering if anybody had ever heard of it and/or if it was any good. It seems really inexpensive, which I'm wary of as you tend to get what you pay for. They say it's made in the USA and what-not... If this is bunk are there any kits out there that folks might recommend? I'd actually prefer something a little more performance oriented than direct factory replacement, but I'm not really sure where to start. Thanks!
With those particular Suspension/steering pieces there really is no "performance oriented" replacement. The only difference in these parts from brand to brand is QUALITY. Your best quality part is only 3 that I would recommend and those are Proforged, Moog or AC Delco only.

Lots of cheap kits out there, but they are just that and you get what you pay for. Be Leary of their ad on eBay as they say it's "Moog part numbers" but doubt they are Moog parts. That could be a little deceiving. A lot of manufactures share the same numbers Moog does.

Whether you're doing this yourself or paying someone, you don't want to do this again anytime soon. Spend a little more money and get quality parts...IMHO

Edit - on second thought, there are Solid Billet adjuster sleeves from Proforged and Hotchkis but not really a performance increase.

================================================== =============


'95 Caprice SS conversion - Bonny Buckets - 96 Column, Shifter and Console - 3.73 Gear and Herter tune - Z/28 Cluster - Blazer OH Console - Green/Pink bushings - Chromed Impala Wheels - Eibach Springs and Bilstein Shocks - Corvette Engine Dress - the list goes on and still more to do...it never ends.

Last edited by 4DoorSS; 05-24-2017 at 09:57 PM.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-24-2017, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input! I figured this was TOO good of a deal. I'm basically rebuilding this car from the ground up so I definitely want each area I attack to be done correctly and with high quality parts.

1995 SS: F-Body bucket seats, 9C1 rubber floor, black billet grille, smoke headlights with HID conversion kit, 13" grant steering wheel, cold air intake, 50-state hooker headers, probably some other stuff done to it that I don't even know about...
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-24-2017, 11:22 PM
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Yeah, what 4doorSS said. I looked at the link you provided and it states that the ball joints are oversized. That most likely means they are the 5/8th inch ones used on the later 9C1. I got my Moog parts from Rock Auto and used the discount.
Mark: Snowman-33

93 9C1: Work & Cubic Ca$h This started with a new headlight and fender Celeritas In Conficiendo
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-24-2017, 11:45 PM Thread Starter
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I'm pricing stuff out on Summit right now:

Hotchkis Sport Suspension 1922 - Hotchkis Sport Suspension Lowering Coil Springs - $379.97

Hotchkis Sport Suspension 79010002 - Hotchkis Sport Suspension Shock Absorbers - $419.97

Set of Moog driver/passenger upper/lower control arms - $75/ea

Proforged Chassis Parts 116-10010 - Proforged Steering Rebuild Kits - $224.51

Anybody have any opinions on Hotchkis vs Bilstein vs Eibach for springs and shocks?

1995 SS: F-Body bucket seats, 9C1 rubber floor, black billet grille, smoke headlights with HID conversion kit, 13" grant steering wheel, cold air intake, 50-state hooker headers, probably some other stuff done to it that I don't even know about...
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 06:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spacedock510 View Post
I'm pricing stuff out on Summit right now:

Hotchkis Sport Suspension 1922 - Hotchkis Sport Suspension Lowering Coil Springs - $379.97

Hotchkis Sport Suspension 79010002 - Hotchkis Sport Suspension Shock Absorbers - $419.97

Set of Moog driver/passenger upper/lower control arms - $75/ea

Proforged Chassis Parts 116-10010 - Proforged Steering Rebuild Kits - $224.51

Anybody have any opinions on Hotchkis vs Bilstein vs Eibach for springs and shocks?
Sounds like you are considering a Complete FE rebuild...good call by you. I'm partial to Eibach Springs and bilstein shocks and is what I chose. but heard good things about the hotchkis parts.

gbhs brought up a very good point and 1 I missed in their add on "oversized" BJ's. The manufacturers make a Stand 9/16" BJ and a 5/8" BJ but there is also an "oversized" 9/16" BJ sold for use in cars that the Lower Control Arm hole has opened up "just enough" that the Press In fit of the BJ is not as tight. So these are made so you can keep your stock 9/16" arms that have maybe had the BJ's replaced a few times and have opened up.

This is my install when doing a 5/8" conversion that talks about some of those details but also shares some improvements in parts (even to Moog parts) that you could employ on your rebuild.

https://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...ps-part-s.html

It may even give you some ideas on other parts you want to add to your order. The only difference in parts for you may be the Lower BJ's and Control Arms....pretty much everything else is the same.

You could also save a little money and buy new Bushings and just rebuild the Arms yourself assuming they are solid. Really not hard to do with the correct tools which can be borrowed from most parts places. Good Luck with your re-build.

================================================== =============


'95 Caprice SS conversion - Bonny Buckets - 96 Column, Shifter and Console - 3.73 Gear and Herter tune - Z/28 Cluster - Blazer OH Console - Green/Pink bushings - Chromed Impala Wheels - Eibach Springs and Bilstein Shocks - Corvette Engine Dress - the list goes on and still more to do...it never ends.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 07:19 AM
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Concur 100% - "I'm wary of as you tend to get what you pay for."

The ad is at least right in that a quality-grade complete setup normally runs $300+ for all those parts. The low price for that kit "made me look" further, and I stopped after looking up just one part. A legitimate centerlink is at least $50 (and an ACDelco is $70):
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...049701&jsn=480
Not near enough left over for even a 1/3 what's remaining. lol

You would do well to pour over the dozens (maybe hundreds?) of past threads and stickies on various coil options as there's way too much history, buyer experience and specs than what anyone can recount all at once here again. There's also a good deal of intel in here on what shocks and coils behave well together - and don't. It depends 100% on what you're after for looks-performance-comfort... I admit never hearing of Hotchkis shocks before your post. For that money (or less) I have fallen in love with Bilstein for my past 4 cars in a row. A used setup of Konis I got (0% front - 20% rear) have been treating me right on my new FWB. Others favor HAL QA1, and some are satisfied with more economical Monroe Severe Service, and either the single or double valved KYB (one design is way too weak for stiff coils - I don't recall which).

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 07:37 AM
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Since you're in the neighborhood, it might be wise for you to replace the bump stops (ZQ8). https://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...ump-stops.html, the sway bar bushings and end links. It's not that much more $ and then you're done with. Just a thought and good luck.
Mark: Snowman-33

93 9C1: Work & Cubic Ca$h This started with a new headlight and fender Celeritas In Conficiendo
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 07:50 AM
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Plan on spending countless hours researching the threads here on suspension and steering. You'll get more info that way as most seasoned members have left the forum and although you're getting good advice, the "meat and potatoes" you're looking for is already here buried in older threads. Long story short, don't worry about upgrading the steering components. Just get quality replacement parts. The only caveat to that would be the steering shaft as some use an upgraded component from a different build. Research it and you'll see. Suspension upgrading is different. LOTS of things to figure out there and lots of different paths to potentially pursue. They're all interrelated to one another so develop a good plan and stick with one consistent proven recipe. There is no "one size fits all" solution.

GL
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 09:01 AM
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You also have the option of using urethane bushings. They will make the car transmit more road "information" through the chassis. They are a performance upgrade, because they are stiffer, but you may find the ride slightly harsher. They do keep the suspension parts from deflecting as much under pressure, thus the handling will be more predictable.


You will require an alignment if you put drop springs on the car. To get you to the shop, you can remove .030" of shim per 1/2 of drop on each stack. Measure the rim to fender distance before and after installing the springs, and remember to tighten the bushings AFTER putting the weight of the car on the suspension.

1991 OCC 461 (.030 over 454) BBC, 3.23 posi, flash to pass, drop spindles & springs, Impala rims, Hydroboost, Recaros, MOMO/wood SW w/QR, custom wood shift knob, Pioneer DEH P77DH
1992 OCC now with 5.7 tbi, DEH P77DH
For a parts list, check https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...ion-parts.html
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