Little help again.. - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-25-2017, 12:30 AM Thread Starter
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Little help again..

Hey guys, took a chance to see under the car after it was put on a lift.... Here's what I found haha. I have no idea what happen nor when? I only started to feel the car differently maybe a week ago, I wasn't driving the car since I'm fixing it at this point. But how? Regardless, this is the trailing arm, also known as the rear upper control arm right? Now, two questions. I plan on getting the aftermarket UMI or BMR Standard Length upper control arms if I cannot find a stock one. Is standard length fine to buy? Can this job be done at home...without it being a PITA?


UMI 78-96 Impala Caprice B-Body Rear Non Adjustable Upper Control Arms Set
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-25-2017, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by NoobDaily View Post
Hey guys, took a chance to see under the car after it was put on a lift.... Here's what I found haha. I have no idea what happen nor when? I only started to feel the car differently maybe a week ago, I wasn't driving the car since I'm fixing it at this point. But how? Regardless, this is the trailing arm, also known as the rear upper control arm right? Now, two questions. I plan on getting the aftermarket UMI or BMR Standard Length upper control arms if I cannot find a stock one. Is standard length fine to buy? Can this job be done at home...without it being a PITA?


UMI 78-96 Impala Caprice B-Body Rear Non Adjustable Upper Control Arms Set
Yikes!! That's pretty bad there, hard to say what happened and the fact that the Bushing in the Rear Housing is also gone seems strange.

But to answer your questions.....

1) I have the UMI Upper and Lower Standard Length arms and they work fine. I prefer Std. length over the extended for numerous reasons. The biggest being that I don't understand messing with the Geometry of the Rear JUST FOR LOOKS and to Center the tire.

2) Absolutely this can be done at home. Not sure of your skillset here and if you have any doubts take it to a Professional or help from a knowledgeable friend. But really a Bolt in Job for the most part and I recommend that you torque all fasteners ONLY when the car is Level and the Suspension is "Loaded".

You will need to replace that missing Bushing in the Rear End Housing and may as well do them both along with the Shells.

================================================== =============


'95 Caprice SS conversion - Bonny Buckets - 96 Column, Shifter and Console - 3.73 Gear and Herter tune - Z/28 Cluster - Blazer OH Console - Green/Pink bushings - Chromed Impala Wheels - Eibach Springs and Bilstein Shocks - Corvette Engine Dress - the list goes on and still more to do...it never ends.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-26-2017, 03:16 AM Thread Starter
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4DoorSS... Gotta buy you a beer one day haha, really appreciate all your feedback. I will go ahead and change them myself over the weekend. The hardest thing I've done to the car was changing the coil springs and boy.... that was a million times harder than the engine rebuild haha.

What do you mean by shells, the metal casing the bushing goes in? Sorry haha, I do not know many things by name. Do you happen to know the part number? Just checked rock auto and there are a good amount of bushings in there that kind all look different. Also, would you happen to know the size of the bolt that connects the bushing to the umi arm? I will be needing one... haha. Once again thank you for your help!

Last edited by NoobDaily; 09-26-2017 at 03:47 AM.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-26-2017, 07:16 AM
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This is what I bought for my upper rear arms. More Information for MOOG K6111 You will need 2 sets. I'm not sure what size bolt you will need for UMI control arms.

Mark: Snowman-33

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-26-2017, 10:20 AM
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if you are buying aftermarket arms like Hotchkis, UMI, etc those will have new bushings/shells that come with them. At least the Hotchkis does. IDK about stock stamped arms but I suspect they would come with new bushings that go in the third member housing

Removing the old ones...been awhile since I did it but I used a home made extractor basically making a puller to get the old bushing/shell out. Some torch the old rubber out and chisel the shell out....sounds quite messy that way

I believe you can get a bushing removal tool from auto part stores that have a "loan-a-tool" program

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-26-2017, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbhs72 View Post
This is what I bought for my upper rear arms. More Information for MOOG K6111 You will need 2 sets. I'm not sure what size bolt you will need for UMI control arms.

Mark: Snowman-33
Thanks Mark! Appreciate the help!

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Op
BALLSS
BALLSS, Thank you! I am buying only the trailing arms as they are available on eBay. I will probably just order the trailing arms in and go to a hardware store down here to find a proper sized bolt. Thank you guys for your help!
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-26-2017, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BALLSS View Post
Op

if you are buying aftermarket arms like Hotchkis, UMI, etc those will have new bushings/shells that come with them. At least the Hotchkis does. IDK about stock stamped arms but I suspect they would come with new bushings that go in the third member housing

Removing the old ones...been awhile since I did it but I used a home made extractor basically making a puller to get the old bushing/shell out. Some torch the old rubber out and chisel the shell out....sounds quite messy that way

I believe you can get a bushing removal tool from auto part stores that have a "loan-a-tool" program
I don't know if the part stores lend out the tool that will work for this job. When I was ready to do mine, I bought the tool from HR Parts & Stuff. It's tool P/N: 0599. (Products >> Tools & Stuff >> Bushing Tool).

It made taking out the old bushings, and reinstalling them a piece of cake.

I installed BMR trailing upper & lower arms, as well as urethane bushings in the 'ears' of the rear end.

Clear Image Tri-Ys & Hi-Flow cats >> 2.5" X-Pipe & Magnaflow Tri-Chambers, Mike Harris 4L60E, Circle-D 2,400 RPM TC, All MOOG FT End & Del-A-Lum bushed MOOG CTRL Arms, Eibach FT & New Stock HT rear springs. Hotchkis Sway Bars & End Links, RAISS, 3.73 Gears in Eaton carrier, Dynoshaft & CIA Loop, BMR Trailing Arms, Braided Brake Hoses, Taylor Spiro-Pro Wires, AutoMeter Water Temp & Oil PSI Gauges, Impala Console. ATE Blue Brake Fluid. Skip White distributor. 20's, Z28 Cluster, Corbeau GTS Seat
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-26-2017, 08:18 PM
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I have used the loaner program, and they did have the tool. It is like a large C clamp with assorted size tubes to give the part somewhere to go when pressing them out. Getting a used stock one is probably your cheapest direction, provided that you can go to a pick and pull yard. I believe you can remove the bushing on the car.

1991 OCC 461 (.030 over 454) BBC, 3.23 posi, flash to pass, drop spindles & springs, Impala rims, Hydroboost, Recaros, MOMO/wood SW w/QR, custom wood shift knob, Pioneer DEH P77DH
1992 OCC now with 5.7 tbi, DEH P77DH
For a parts list, check https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...ion-parts.html
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-28-2017, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoobDaily View Post
4DoorSS... Gotta buy you a beer one day haha, really appreciate all your feedback. I will go ahead and change them myself over the weekend. The hardest thing I've done to the car was changing the coil springs and boy.... that was a million times harder than the engine rebuild haha.

What do you mean by shells, the metal casing the bushing goes in? Sorry haha, I do not know many things by name. Do you happen to know the part number? Just checked rock auto and there are a good amount of bushings in there that kind all look different. Also, would you happen to know the size of the bolt that connects the bushing to the umi arm? I will be needing one... haha. Once again thank you for your help!
Appreciate that and love Beer. I guess by now from the other responses you've figured out what I meant by "shells". If you google it, you should be able to find quite a few videos that show different methods people have used to remove Rear end Housing Bushings. Then as has been described, there are lots of ways to skin this cat, some easy with Specialized tools and others that can be just as easy (maybe a little harder) if you just get creative.

This is just 1 method - EZ-PZ and no Fire Extinguisher required ....


his next video shows you how to install new bushing.


================================================== =============


'95 Caprice SS conversion - Bonny Buckets - 96 Column, Shifter and Console - 3.73 Gear and Herter tune - Z/28 Cluster - Blazer OH Console - Green/Pink bushings - Chromed Impala Wheels - Eibach Springs and Bilstein Shocks - Corvette Engine Dress - the list goes on and still more to do...it never ends.

Last edited by 4DoorSS; 09-28-2017 at 08:11 AM.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-28-2017, 08:24 AM
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If you decide to use the loan-a-tool to remove the shell from the differential case, you may find a dimple(s) on the small end, that is supposed to keep the part from walking out. You must bend it back to shape, or the part will not come out. Most suspension arms have the dimples too. A chisel, and a couple stout whacks with a BFH will work fine for that.

1991 OCC 461 (.030 over 454) BBC, 3.23 posi, flash to pass, drop spindles & springs, Impala rims, Hydroboost, Recaros, MOMO/wood SW w/QR, custom wood shift knob, Pioneer DEH P77DH
1992 OCC now with 5.7 tbi, DEH P77DH
For a parts list, check https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...ion-parts.html
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