New UCA vs. new ball joint/control arm bushings - Chevy Impala SS Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-27-2018, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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New UCA vs. new ball joint/control arm bushings

Is there really any reason (other than ease of replacement) to consider a new Upper control arm vs. buying separately a new balljoint and new control arm bushing?

Does the control arm shaft or the inner surfaces of the control arm pass through get worn?

btw - the bushings on my left UCA are basically missing...

'95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster.

'96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock.

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-27-2018, 11:20 PM
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I'd definitely replace the whole arm if bushings are bad. You'll save 2 hours of diking with replacing them.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-28-2018, 09:02 AM
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Having rebuilt all 4 of mine, BUY replacements.
Not hard job, but after everything is said & done I sure wish I had.

Job turns into PITA, mostly because I didn't want to put the crusty control arms back on. So media blasting, painting, etc.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-28-2018, 12:09 PM
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To me, it comes down to Money and time. when I did mine, I just chose to rebuild the arms and also took the time to bead blast the arms and then paint them and also got Poly Bump Stops.

Don't remember the pricing difference but I just chose to go that route. However, there is a lot to be said about getting a part that you can just Bolt on and go. Also, the old upper arms may be bent and it's not noticeable so having new would eliminate that possibility too.

I guess you just need to weigh the cost difference and those other factors to see what best fits YOUR needs.

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'95 Caprice SS conversion - Bonny Buckets - 96 Column, Shifter and Console - 3.73 Gear and Herter tune - Z/28 Cluster - Blazer OH Console - Green/Pink bushings - Chromed Impala Wheels - Eibach Springs and Bilstein Shocks - Corvette Engine Dress - the list goes on and still more to do...it never ends.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-28-2018, 06:05 PM
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Just rebuilt my entire suspension on my wagon. Due to the costs I chose to reuse my arms vs replacement. I bought EVERYTHING needed to do the job for less than the price of the new arms. That includes all springs, shocks, etc. All Moog Problem Solver parts, all USA made. Almost a 2 inch drop in height

Of course Iím in Florida and the car has been here since new. My end links came apart with wrenches and did not break. Air hammer, block of wood and a BFH made the bushings a walk in the park. There is a link here on the forum for doing the bushings easily.

I drive the car and the underside is not visible so I just removed arms, swapped parts and put them back on. Rides great and no more constant squeaking.

1995 Caprice Wagon
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-28-2018, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alchemist View Post
Is there really any reason (other than ease of replacement) to consider a new Upper control arm vs. buying separately a new balljoint and new control arm bushing?

Does the control arm shaft or the inner surfaces of the control arm pass through get worn?

btw - the bushings on my left UCA are basically missing...
The surfaces of the metal parts do not get worn. The issue you run into when removing the bushings is that they are flared on the "open" end, and you must use a chisel or grinder to reduce the diameter, so they will pass through the hole in the arm.

You also must spread the lower bushing mounts a little, because they tighten on the inner tube, and bend a little.

1991 OCC 461 (.030 over 454) BBC, 3.23 posi, flash to pass, drop spindles & springs, Impala rims, Hydroboost, Recaros, MOMO/wood SW w/QR, custom wood shift knob, Pioneer DEH P77DH
1992 OCC now with 5.7 tbi, DEH P77DH
For a parts list, check https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...ion-parts.html
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-28-2018, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone. Even with that Powerbuilt rental tool from Advance, it's still a job I'm convinced. Which to go with:

Delco Professional 45D1138 or

Moog R series RK620158

It looks like the Delco has a bolt in balljoint, from the picture, but sometimes those pics aren't correct.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-28-2018, 09:08 PM
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Nothing wrong with not wanting to mess with the rebuild route. I do this stuff for a living and own the tools already so it was easy.

Whatever you do, do NOT use the R series parts from Moog. They are the cheap, made in China garbage. CK or K part numbers only. They call the Problem Solver for good reason.

1995 Caprice Wagon
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-28-2018, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinister View Post
Nothing wrong with not wanting to mess with the rebuild route. I do this stuff for a living and own the tools already so it was easy.

Whatever you do, do NOT use the R series parts from Moog. They are the cheap, made in China garbage. CK or K part numbers only. They call the Problem Solver for good reason.
Agree with you Sinister, however, they don't make CK620158 any longer. So if you have to have the Problem Solver parts for the upper left side, only way to go is to rebuild.

I think the Delco professional parts are made in Taiwan...

'95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster.

'96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock.

74 Ford F100, 390 HP pulled out of a 67 Fairlane GT

91 Mustang LX notchback, 5.0L, 63,000 miles, pristine.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-29-2018, 05:26 PM
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Yup, that unavailability is what lead me down the rebuild route.

RA has a kit, all four arms and all tie rods from mevotech, their premium line. All research said to stay far far away, so I did.

Zero problems on 2 previous b bodies when using Moog parts so I came back to my senses

Didnít do any research on the Delco stuff. I know that RA carries the proforged line of parts for b bodies as well.

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