Sway Bar "End Links" - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-01-2018, 04:30 AM Thread Starter
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Sway Bar "End Links"

Wassup to tha Gang Need help with correctly installing.Sway bar stabilizer links, cant install to save my life I've already bought from Auto zone to replace the clunking noise when braking. Only to remove without being able to safety install back to original state. Car is extremely overdue for full suspension overhaul. Experiencing severe body rolling from the rear when accelerating and steering need to replace tie rods and sway bar end links, and rear control arms upper and lower.

For reference would appreciate some pics to help show how should be align with the bolt facing upward with bushing and nut at top for stabilizer links on 94/96. (Cannot get the last bushing between frame and washer to compress to fit nut over.) I have on 20" rims at the moment, would that change anything using a jack doesn't seem to help but keeps stabilizer links from staying in place.


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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-01-2018, 05:51 AM
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Where are you "jacking" from? I usually just Jack it up from right under the control arm to compress the suspension so the links fit and you can get the bolts started. On rubber bushings just tighten til the bushing bulges out to the washer diameter.

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'95 Caprice SS conversion - Bonny Buckets - 96 Column, Shifter and Console - 3.73 Gear and Herter tune - Z/28 Cluster - Blazer OH Console - Green/Pink bushings - Chromed Impala Wheels - Eibach Springs and Bilstein Shocks - Corvette Engine Dress - the list goes on and still more to do...it never ends.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-01-2018, 07:50 AM
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Might sound obvious but if you just grabbed from the HELPS aisle the bolt needs to be same length as existing. Outside of what's already suggested, I do know that one time I used a large C-clamp to get that last 1/2" to connect up on the second side. My first guess for clunking when braking would not be endlinks. You mentioned future frontend rebuild, but outside of egged out UCA frame hole keep eyes peeled for something other than suspension that is failing - and potentially dangerous.

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-01-2018, 10:14 AM
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Better to drive car up on ramps to replace end links vs letting front suspension hang

\'96 BBB 383/T-56
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-01-2018, 12:23 PM
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Did you take the end links off both sides or are you trying to replace one side at a time? If the new end links are a little different length than the old you will be fighting the sway bar.

James Paley

-95 Caprice Wagon, 93K, 2.56 gears, No-Slip Locker, Sonnax Line Pressure Booster, 2nd and 4th super hold servos, MSD Cap/Rotor, Jacobs high voltage coil, Global West front springs (760lb/in) with Koni Special D front shocks.
Impala SS rim refinishing in progress, 1.6 ultra pro mags and Bullet vs2700 springs waiting for install

-2011 Caprice 9C3
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-01-2018, 01:04 PM
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Is the length of the replacement end link the same as what you have now?

These are the ones I got at Napa and have the "poly" vs rubber to replace the ES one that were worn on my Hotchkis swap bar
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\'96 BBB 383/T-56
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-01-2018, 08:13 PM
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Just an FYI: Haynes book says to torque the end links to 16 Ft. lbs. I replaced mine once and the car was on the ground and I had no problem getting them together. YMMV

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-02-2018, 01:46 AM Thread Starter
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Replaced one side at a time, unfortunately I didn't do it RIGHT based on the fact there was still play in between the links because I couldn't get it to compress with rubber bushing, washer and nut at the top. I had then decided to just use the bushing and nut to tighten down, could still hear when braking jingling. Soon after it just ripped through the bushing and was bent so had to remove that ***** with few wrenches was a PAIN, I eventually realize didn't serve a purpose bent putting back shouldn't make a difference right now. The driver side bushing was installed the same way currently in the vehicle.

I didn't think to measure the previous ones I had that were identical to the ones I bought from AZ just aligned up side by side. Should I just buy a better quality set such as ones from Napa? Are they the same procedure to install? Would you mind walking through to make sure I understand correctly. Also today, I noticed my passenger side front Strut/Shock isn't bolted through at the top would this have any effect on. Seems easier to repair than these Sway bar links. Around the same time I replaced the sway bar bushings with ones shown below, didn't have much left from ones before so I was unsure on which set to buy based on the sway bar diameter.

Part Number: FA7190
Warranty: Limited Lifetime
Notes: To frame
Front suspension. 1 1/4" Diameter bar.

Should you have to jack up to remove links for, or just remove with 2'' 14mm wrenches.

1994 Chevy Caprice 5.7
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-02-2018, 07:47 AM
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I believe the shock is more the problem than anything else. The end links should bolt up with almost no issues. There is no reason for them to have alignment issues unless the anti-roll bar is bent. The hardest part is getting the old ones out. I would suggest putting the car on jack stands to get both front wheels off of the ground when doing the install. The anti-roll bar will be relaxed, and you will be able to manipulate the parts more easily. Get both of them in place before you tighten the nuts. If you have drop springs, consider getting shorter ones to keep the bar in the same position as stock.

Be extremely careful when installing the pictured bushings, the bolts only go into the frame, and the threads in the frame are easy to strip. If you strip them, you can drill them out, and put rivnuts with the same bolt size in their place.

The heavy duty links from the local parts store are probably the same as the ones from NAPA. I have the ones with the red bushings on my wagon, and they are working just fine.

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