Control Arm drain Holes - Chevy Impala SS Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-21-2019, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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Control Arm drain Holes

I've looked and haven't found anything about this. If the front springs are cut. Don't you have to be sure the top fits the pocket on the upper control arm and then the bottom should be between the two drain holes on the bottom? I may be missing something but it seems as if you could only cut approximately one coil at a time. Is my reasoning correct? Seems sort of stupid but I wonder about a lot of things.
Thanks all.

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-21-2019, 02:01 PM
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The top of the spring sits in the frame perch, not the upper control arm
so it can be oriented or clocked in any position. Yes, bottom of spring
should be in drain holes in lower A arm.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-21-2019, 02:54 PM
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Nab +1

You can always tell which is the top end of a front coil. It's the end you can set on the ground without it tipping over. Guys who don't know about clocking the bottom end between the holes find a major cause of unequal ride ht. afterward.


Mark, I wonder about alot of things too. Right now it's how much suction will hold in a closed cooling system to allow me to change a leaking drain petcock without too much AF loss v. draining the whole system. I'll let y'alls know when it's 20 degrees warmer out, or Saturday, whichever comes first.

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\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-21-2019, 03:38 PM
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One method is to install a trim screw up through the drain hole. This insures that both will be open afterwards. Rotate spring until contacting screw,and complete installation by removing screw.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-21-2019, 04:53 PM
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The spring is supposed to completely cover the first "drain hole" and not cover the second.

Next time you guys have a spring out take a LONG look up at the spring pocket.
It is not completely flat , and does have a subtle indent where the end of the top of the spring is supposed to fit.
This because the "B" body does not use a finish ground end that can go anywhere.
It is just flatted with a raw end, preventing it from sitting square on a flat surface

It is not very big , and add the rubber isolator, that is how people have gotten away with less than full cuts on the lower for ever.

Not indexing the top will cock the spring a little bit, but as I said people get away with it all the time.
Other guys will experience the coil rubbing the side of the pocket.

Mine are cut one full coil to keep both top and bottom aligned


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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-21-2019, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Wail View Post
The top of the spring sits in the frame perch, not the upper control arm
so it can be oriented or clocked in any position. Yes, bottom of spring
should be in drain holes in lower A arm.

Nab

Doh!!!!! Head Slap. I did mean the spring perch. But there is a notch for the spring. Correct? Doesn't the end or the top of the spring go in a designated pocket in the perch? If the spring doesn't go to that point is seems as if it could turn a little bit and cover the drain holes. I may be over thinking this but I have thought of it for over a year now. Keep me aligned here.

Thanks all,

Mark: Snowman-33

93 9C1: Work & Cubic Ca$h This started with a new headlight and fender Celeritas In Conficiendo

Last edited by gbhs72; 02-21-2019 at 05:53 PM.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-21-2019, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95wagon View Post
The spring is supposed to completely cover the first "drain hole" and not cover the second.

Next time you guys have a spring out take a LONG look up at the spring pocket.
It is not completely flat , and does have a subtle indent where the end of the top of the spring is supposed to fit.
This because the "B" body does not use a finish ground end that can go anywhere.
It is just flatted with a raw end, preventing it from sitting square on a flat surface

It is not very big , and add the rubber isolator, that is how people have gotten away with less than full cuts on the lower for ever.

Not indexing the top will cock the spring a little bit, but as I said people get away with it all the time.
Other guys will experience the coil rubbing the side of the pocket.

Mine are cut one full coil to keep both top and bottom aligned
This is exactly what I have thought on this. Thanks a ton.

Bob, right now I'm looking at the grass outside and thinking I'll be mowing it in about a week. Rain this week end but it's getting green and shaggy.

Mark: Snowman-33

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96 Black View Post
.......

Mark, I wonder about alot of things too. Right now it's how much suction will hold in a closed cooling system to allow me to change a leaking drain petcock without too much AF loss v. draining the whole system. I'll let y'alls know when it's 20 degrees warmer out, or Saturday, whichever comes first.

Quoting myself IKR. Well, the problem with getting old is you do something pretty smart -- and then forget about it. It turns out when discovering the leaking drain that I had emptied the AF to salvage it (it's fresh from my latest re-re-built opti install). So, the experiment was not applicable anyway. Interesting simple design as it comes out by just clocking at half its rotation and pull out. A little dielectric grease and the new one just about installed itself. I know not thread related, just interesting in a pesky detail sort of way.

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96 Black View Post
I know not thread related, just interesting in a pesky detail sort of way.
Tis Okie. I know how conversations wonder. Sometimes makes things more interesting.

Mark: Snowman-33

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