wheel hop after new tire install - Page 2 - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #11 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 09:24 AM
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while your tire size/profile/rim is causing new issues, some may be resolved with tire pressure change and or "adjustable" rear shocks.....you should consider adding Dick Miller triangulation braces

\'96 BBB 383/T-56
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post #12 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 10:51 AM
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Are the 20's a better hooking/stickier tire? I've seen a lot where severely traction limited cars DIDN'T get wheel hop, but when you install a stickier tire you start to bring out the flaws in the suspension setup. If a tire is spinning with hardly any resistance, you're probably going to get nice, smooth burnouts. Put on a sticky tire that is really attempting to bite, and you start loading and unloading the suspension as the tire hooks, weight transfers and then spins again.
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96 BBB Pro Touring- In the works- Mods list includes functional money incinerator, should have stuck to bolt-ons button, 100 dollars in mild steel MIG wire, a really expensive air compressor and a letter from Tire Rack saying nobody makes 335/35/17's anymore. (396/AI heads/D1SC)
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post #13 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BALLSS View Post
you should seriously consider adding Dick Miller Racing Triangulation Braces
Emphasis mine.

Sedans use kit #5028W.

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post #14 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 01:16 PM
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Marky -



The narrative refers to 5029, and the part no. pulldown indicates -W for our car. You know something special? or just a typo eh.


Oh and yes, I have them and hartilly agree benefit.

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear)
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HomeDepot pipe w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCAs, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, and now CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock sensor!
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post #15 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 06:26 PM
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SSandman touches on a good point...your "new" tires very well may have better "traction" than the older tires you had so they likely would not break lose as easily.....and lead to the wheel hop you now have

If your new tires are also taller than your old ones your rear gear ratio got a little shorter mathematically making it harder to break the tires lose....especially if you are power braking to do the burn out (holly F not a good idea). After a few passes through the water box many years ago I knew then power braking did nothing but potentially FU the tranny and warp rear rotors

While my left foot controls wheel spin on my car....if doing burnouts with a auto I would, and did when my car was a auto, install a line lock (roll control).

Of course more HP will always help smoke the tires....did for me :-)

Double down on the DM braces, they helped my 60' times
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\'96 BBB 383/T-56
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post #16 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 08:08 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSandman View Post
Are the 20's a better hooking/stickier tire?

The old tires were Nitto 555's and the new ones are continental summer only (dont remember the name, ill check later). My understanding is the Nitto's are pretty sticky but i may be wrong. If the continental tires are sticker i dont think it would be by much but maybe 'not much' is enough to make a difference.

1976 Corvette - sold
1994 Z28 - sold
1996 Impala SS - sold
1977 corvette - sold
1999 Trans Am - sold
1996 Impala SS - sold
1992 Corvette - sold it
1996 Impala SS (383, T56, 4.10) - got it
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post #17 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 08:14 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BALLSS View Post
OP

SSandman touches on a good point...your "new" tires very well may have better "traction" than the older tires you had so they likely would not break lose as easily.....and lead to the wheel hop you now have

If your new tires are also taller than your old ones your rear gear ratio got a little shorter mathematically making it harder to break the tires lose....especially if you are power braking to do the burn out (holly F not a good idea). After a few passes through the water box many years ago I knew then power braking did nothing but potentially FU the tranny and warp rear rotors

While my left foot controls wheel spin on my car....if doing burnouts with a auto I would, and did when my car was a auto, install a line lock (roll control).

Of course more HP will always help smoke the tires....did for me :-)

Double down on the DM braces, they helped my 60' times
The new tires are taller than the old ones so the gear ration makes sense. I do have a 4.10 gear though so it seems like there should be plenty left even with the taller tire
I have a 6speed so just a little reving and dumping the clutch used to work just fine before the swap.
I looked at the link but i'm not super familiar with what exactly what they do or how they install. i'll have to do some research.... I worked on some old Vette's but that dosent help w/ a solid axle.

1976 Corvette - sold
1994 Z28 - sold
1996 Impala SS - sold
1977 corvette - sold
1999 Trans Am - sold
1996 Impala SS - sold
1992 Corvette - sold it
1996 Impala SS (383, T56, 4.10) - got it
beater 2017 Nissan Frontier
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post #18 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 08:19 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96 Black View Post
Marky -



The narrative refers to 5029, and the part no. pulldown indicates -W for our car. You know something special? or just a typo eh.


Oh and yes, I have them and hartilly agree benefit.
Is it these guys: Suspension Support Bars GM

1976 Corvette - sold
1994 Z28 - sold
1996 Impala SS - sold
1977 corvette - sold
1999 Trans Am - sold
1996 Impala SS - sold
1992 Corvette - sold it
1996 Impala SS (383, T56, 4.10) - got it
beater 2017 Nissan Frontier
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post #19 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 09:11 AM
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Yep. Gittem'

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear)
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HomeDepot pipe w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCAs, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, and now CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock sensor!
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post #20 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by b_strac View Post
The new tires are taller than the old ones so the gear ration makes sense. I do have a 4.10 gear though so it seems like there should be plenty left even with the taller tire
I have a 6speed so just a little reving and dumping the clutch used to work just fine before the swap.
I looked at the link but i'm not super familiar with what exactly what they do or how they install. i'll have to do some research.... I worked on some old Vette's but that dosent help w/ a solid axle.
with a 383/T56 you should be able to boil any tire. Traction and additional rotating mass are greater with your new larger tires but still with a 383 and T56 you should easily spin the tires

I don't need to dump clutch, just floor it in 1st and it boils my stock size tires

The DM braces attach to the forward front bolts of the upper & lower control arm. They help prevent any twisting of the axle housing on launch....something that should greatly improve your situation. Control arms, if stock, flex and also if your control arm bushings are done that can be a contributing factor also

It can be tight getting the DM braces in. I had to un-hook my over axle pipe from hanger to push it out of the way. Also had to back out the upper bolt of control arm to where its end was flush with the control arm, put DM brace up to it, then tighten that bolt to thread through the DM brace (brace is just a hole, not threaded) then put the nut on bolt and tighten. I have Hotchkis upper & lower control arms but the DM braces will work with stock arms if that is what you have

\'96 BBB 383/T-56
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