wheel hop after new tire install - Page 3 - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #21 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BALLSS View Post
with a 383/T56 you should be able to boil any tire. Traction and additional rotating mass are greater with your new larger tires but still with a 383 and T56 you should easily spin the tires

I don't need to dump clutch, just floor it in 1st and it boils my stock size tires

The DM braces attach to the forward front bolts of the upper & lower control arm. They help prevent any twisting of the axle housing on launch....something that should greatly improve your situation. Control arms, if stock, flex and also if your control arm bushings are done that can be a contributing factor also

It can be tight getting the DM braces in. I had to un-hook my over axle pipe from hanger to push it out of the way. Also had to back out the upper bolt of control arm to where its end was flush with the control arm, put DM brace up to it, then tighten that bolt to thread through the DM brace (brace is just a hole, not threaded) then put the nut on bolt and tighten. I have Hotchkis upper & lower control arms but the DM braces will work with stock arms if that is what you have
I bought the car with rear suspension already complete with BMR Rear lower control arms. The previous owner didnt mention the uppers but it would seem odd to just replace the lowers but leave the uppers stock.
I did a little research on the install and it looks tight. I also have a custom 3 in exhaust which may or may not cause some issues on the install.

1976 Corvette - sold
1994 Z28 - sold
1996 Impala SS - sold
1977 corvette - sold
1999 Trans Am - sold
1996 Impala SS - sold
1992 Corvette - sold it
1996 Impala SS (383, T56, 4.10) - got it
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post #22 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by b_strac View Post
The previous owner didnt mention the uppers but it would seem odd to just replace the lowers but leave the uppers stock.
a quick look under the car would tell you if you have stock or aftermarket arms. FWIW the uppers are considerably harder to install so no guarantee just because BMR lowers there are uppers also

Even if stock uppers the DM braces will help. Back in the day we used to weld plates on stock control arms to stiffen them

Certainly your new tires appear to "hook" better than the old ones regardless of size. I recently replaced tires on my 67 Camaro. They were not worn, had a lot of tread. I could smoke them just mashing the pedal with a 327 and auto. My son looks at the date on sidewall "Dad these tires are 18 years old..". Yep they were hard as rocks. I have only had the car since last Nov. Put on the same tire (BF Goodrich Radial TA's) and no more easy burnouts. Just your basic short 2 stripes as these tires clearly hook way better than the old hard as rock ones that they replaced. 67 Camaros were notorious for wheel hop as they have both rear shocks facing forward vs staggered. I have a L30 327 so my car came with a rod welded to axle housing and bolted to front leaf mounting plate. I have since added sub-frame connectors to generally stiffen the unibody car. But GM knew with the higher power L30 327 they needed to do "something" so they added the bar on the PS.

The DM braces, for a control arm car, essentially do a similar function as my bar on the 67. It keeps the DS axle housing from twisting under hard launch and reduce/eliminate wheel hop

Obviously if we both just put putted the cars around vs mashing gas or doing burnouts we would not need any of the bracing :-)

\'96 BBB 383/T-56
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post #23 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by b_strac View Post
I bought the car with rear suspension already complete with BMR Rear lower control arms. The previous owner didnt mention the uppers but it would seem odd to just replace the lowers but leave the uppers stock.
I did a little research on the install and it looks tight. I also have a custom 3 in exhaust which may or may not cause some issues on the install.

Are the rear lower control arms factory length?
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post #24 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
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Are the rear lower control arms factory length?
I dont know honestly. I've never had the need to look under there so i'll have to check this weekend when i check the uppers. I never noticed the wheels being off center to the wheel openings but im not certain.

1976 Corvette - sold
1994 Z28 - sold
1996 Impala SS - sold
1977 corvette - sold
1999 Trans Am - sold
1996 Impala SS - sold
1992 Corvette - sold it
1996 Impala SS (383, T56, 4.10) - got it
beater 2017 Nissan Frontier
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post #25 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 11:36 PM
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Wheel hop/acceleration aside, the stiffer structure created by the Dick Miller braces makes for a nicer normal driving experience, too, since the control arm frame/body mounts aren't exactly rigid. I put the braces on after I had recently re-done the rear suspension, and things felt a little less jiggly-twisty on washboard surfaces and curves. Just like the front end frame brace under the swaybar, which made the noodly frame a bit more solid-feeling.

https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...otsa-pics.html
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post #26 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 08:25 AM Thread Starter
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Did a little checking this weekend. So the upper con trol arms are stock unfortunately. I'm not sure how to check and see if the lowers are extended other than measuring the length but i didn't get that involved.

The tires appear to be rubbing on both sides of the rear fenders which was a problem with the old wheels and tires. The new ones are marginally smaller so i was hoping that would fix it (very minimal rubbing) but i guess not. This will be a separate thread i guess.

Would changing the upper control arms and Dick Miller braces solve the problem? How hard are the uppers to change?

1976 Corvette - sold
1994 Z28 - sold
1996 Impala SS - sold
1977 corvette - sold
1999 Trans Am - sold
1996 Impala SS - sold
1992 Corvette - sold it
1996 Impala SS (383, T56, 4.10) - got it
beater 2017 Nissan Frontier
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post #27 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b_strac View Post
Would changing the upper control arms and Dick Miller braces solve the problem? How hard are the uppers to change?
Your guess is as good as anyone's. The only thing you can do is experiment with the parts. If it works, then it can be added to the accumulated knowledge.

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For a parts list, check https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulle...ion-parts.html
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post #28 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 08:59 AM
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Did a little checking this weekend. So the upper con trol arms are stock unfortunately. I'm not sure how to check and see if the lowers are extended other than measuring the length but i didn't get that involved.

You might want to get to measuring real soon. Considering oem uppers you can be reasonably confident the lowers are not extended as it would throw off the pinion angle quite a bit. Funny that if lowers are extended it could cause 'jitters' as the u-joint loads/unloads. I can't believe problems wouldn't have manifested themselves long before now if that were the case.


The tires appear to be rubbing on both sides of the rear fenders which was a problem with the old wheels and tires. The new ones are marginally smaller so i was hoping that would fix it (very minimal rubbing) but i guess not. This will be a separate thread i guess.
You might think of rewording. Unless excessively worn/rotted bushings then rubbing on both fenders sure sounds like your wheels are just too wide or using the wrong offset??? There is an issue of a small number of frames with control arm mount hole stamped wrong and causing rub on --> one <-- side, but not both. Sometimes a frame can shift on the body causing offest/rub on one side, but again not both.


Would changing the upper control arms and Dick Miller braces solve the problem? How hard are the uppers to change?

If the oem uppers have rotted/badly worn bushings then changeout will of course help. Search will show hints on smart r&r. Having a torch and/or airtools make the job easier. Some guys make a tool with thread rod and plate, and there are tools for rent to ease the job. I did it once using just a BFH and special collet supplied with the extended arms, but it was a bitsh. DM brace will not do much if the wrong wheels already rubbing on both fenders - and if the bushings are still in good shape.
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post #29 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
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....The tires appear to be rubbing on both sides of the rear fenders which was a problem with the old wheels and tires. The new ones are marginally smaller so i was hoping that would fix it (very minimal rubbing) but i guess not......
The 295mm tires should tuck......unless your new wheels have the wrong offset; especially with the rubbing being to BOTH sides.

KW

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post #30 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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The 295mm tires should tuck......unless your new wheels have the wrong offset; especially with the rubbing being to BOTH sides.

KW
Agreed. the wheels are Torq Thrust II 1 (20x10"/5x127mm, +6mm offset) which should tuck fine...... i believe. I'll have to dig a bit into the rubbing thing. I can see the inner fender being polished but the previous tires rubbed so i'll have to do some more digging this weekend to see if it the new rubber definitely rubs.

1976 Corvette - sold
1994 Z28 - sold
1996 Impala SS - sold
1977 corvette - sold
1999 Trans Am - sold
1996 Impala SS - sold
1992 Corvette - sold it
1996 Impala SS (383, T56, 4.10) - got it
beater 2017 Nissan Frontier
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