wheel hop after new tire install - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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wheel hop after new tire install

After going from a 305 17in tire to a 295 20in tire i'm getting bad wheel hop if i try a burn out. I'm not someone who runs around smoking the tires all the time but i've done them before (a year or so ago) w/ the 305's. Would just switching tire sizes have that much of an impact on traction? the 305's had plenty of tread left too so.....

Any input is welcome.

1976 Corvette - sold
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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 10:19 AM
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Can not comment on burn outs, but I have had two cars that developed major suspension changes after changing the tire/rim combination. The wheels are "un suspended weight" and can change the way your shocks and springs react. In one case I changed from steel rims to aluminum which I guess at a 10Lb change. The other car I just went to smaller tires.


The second issue is that lower profile tire also change your suspension rate.
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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 10:49 AM
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Agreeing with ZO- I'd add that you might be seeing affect of worn or failing control arm bushings - hell, even unloading of u-joints if exceeding their design range. Regardless of wheel size how do overall tire diameters compare old v. new?

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!
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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 11:18 AM
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Large tires like 20"+ are much more rigid due to the lack of a sidewall.
They just cannot flex/give like a smaller tire.

I have a friend with a Magnum wagon he has 24"? and cannot do a burnout to save his life. Wasn't a problem with the stock 17" tires.
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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96 Black View Post
Agreeing with ZO- I'd add that you might be seeing affect of worn or failing control arm bushings - hell, even unloading of u-joints if exceeding their design range. Regardless of wheel size how do overall tire diameters compare old v. new?
Tires: from 315/35/17 to 295/30/20
Rear suspension (maybe 15k miles):
* Hotchkiss springs
* Bilstein shocks
* BMR rear sway bar
* BMR rear LCAs

You can see, not a huge difference in side wall from the 17 to the 20. I wouldnt think businhing would go bad at 15k but i'll have to inspect them maybe this weekend.

1976 Corvette - sold
1994 Z28 - sold
1996 Impala SS - sold
1977 corvette - sold
1999 Trans Am - sold
1996 Impala SS - sold
1992 Corvette - sold it
1996 Impala SS (383, T56, 4.10) - got it
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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babywag View Post
Large tires like 20"+ are much more rigid due to the lack of a sidewall.
They just cannot flex/give like a smaller tire.

I have a friend with a Magnum wagon he has 24"? and cannot do a burnout to save his life. Wasn't a problem with the stock 17" tires.

Changing from 315/35/17 (obviously not stock tire height) to 295/30/20 isn't much of a reduction in side wall so i would think there'd be that much of a change but i've been wrong many time before.

1976 Corvette - sold
1994 Z28 - sold
1996 Impala SS - sold
1977 corvette - sold
1999 Trans Am - sold
1996 Impala SS - sold
1992 Corvette - sold it
1996 Impala SS (383, T56, 4.10) - got it
beater 2017 Nissan Frontier
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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by b_strac View Post
Tires: from 315/35/17 to 295/30/20.....You can see, not a huge difference in side wall from the 17 to the 20.....
Actually, you have about an 1" difference in the sidewall going to the 295/30-20 tires....fairly significant.

Further, stock (OEM) tires for the Impala (255/15-17) have a 5" sidewall; 1 1/2" more than your current tires.

While your old 315/35-17 tires may not have reached a threshold of good sidewall flex, it's very probable that your 20" tires did. PARTICULARLY if you still have a stock-ish suspension.

Lower profile tires + bigger/heavier rims + stock-ish suspension = bad combination.

KW
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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by KW Baraka View Post
Actually, you have about an 1" difference in the sidewall going to the 295/30-20 tires....fairly significant.

Further, stock (OEM) tires for the Impala (255/15-17) have a 5" sidewall; 1 1/2" more than your current tires.

While your old 315/35-17 tires may not have reached a threshold of good sidewall flex, it's very probable that your 20" tires did. PARTICULARLY if you still have a stock-ish suspension.

Lower profile tires + bigger/heavier rims + stock-ish suspension = bad combination.

KW
I guess the rear suspension is stockish, in that its lowered and just a bit beefier than normal.

Rear suspension (maybe 15k miles):
* Hotchkiss springs
* Bilstein shocks
* BMR rear sway bar
* BMR rear LCAs

So i guess the next question is what else can i do to reduce wheel hop w/ the new tires? The car makes about 350hp at the wheels w/ 4.10 gears so power isn't an issue.

1976 Corvette - sold
1994 Z28 - sold
1996 Impala SS - sold
1977 corvette - sold
1999 Trans Am - sold
1996 Impala SS - sold
1992 Corvette - sold it
1996 Impala SS (383, T56, 4.10) - got it
beater 2017 Nissan Frontier
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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by b_strac View Post
....
So i guess the next question is what else can i do to reduce wheel hop w/ the new tires? The car makes about 350hp at the wheels w/ 4.10 gears so power isn't an issue.

IDK if it's the correct term, but you must have some harmonics thing manifesting itself that can't be absorbed by the sidewall. Look at me talkin' lika engineer.. Still, my first (and least costly) experiment would be changing tire pressures, and then either stiffer (or even counter-intuitively = softer) shocks to change up the cycle frequency. Then the same with the coils.

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!
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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96 Black View Post
IDK if it's the correct term, but you must have some harmonics thing manifesting itself that can't be absorbed by the sidewall. Look at me talkin' lika engineer.. Still, my first (and least costly) experiment would be changing tire pressures, and then either stiffer (or even counter-intuitively = softer) shocks to change up the cycle frequency. Then the same with the coils.
That is similar to what I was going to write. It could be the sidewall, or the entire package. Changing one part may stop the wheel hop. There is a certain amount of compliance built into the suspension, and depending on the stiffness of the upgraded part, it may match the frequency of the assembly to the pulsations of the input, causing a positive feedback loop...and you get wheel hop.

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