Front Sway Bar - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-27-2019, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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Front Sway Bar

While working on my garage the other day, I moved my sway bar. I looked at it and noticed something I hadn't seen before. It had several bends in it. Not the bends on the end but on the left and right sides between the bends to mount to the links. Is this normal? If not I guess there are new bars in my future. I was pretty happy with the stock bars but I found a review by Scot on the Summit site. He was well pleased with the BMR bars. How about it, are these kinks normal or not? Thanks,

Mark: Snowman-33

93 9C1: Work & Cubic Ca$h This started with a new headlight and fender Celeritas In Conficiendo
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-27-2019, 09:05 PM
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Hi, Mark,
Yes, it has bends in it to fit around things. Not much goes wrong with a sway bar other than wearing out the endlink and frame bushings. If your bushings have more than 40-50K miles on them, you'll definitely notice an improvement by replacing them.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-27-2019, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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Mark, I thought it might not be a bad bar. As you said, not much happens to them. It was just something I hadn't seen before. I have new links and body bushings. As soon as I finish up my garage I'll be able to move the frame into it and get down on that. I only have one more wall to insulate and panel then do the ceiling and then I'll start using some of the parts I have sitting here on the frame once It's welded, cleaned & painted. All new steering, ball joints, springs, rear control arms and on & on. Thanks for the info on the bar.

Mark: Snowman-33

93 9C1: Work & Cubic Ca$h This started with a new headlight and fender Celeritas In Conficiendo

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 07:54 AM
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Things can apparently "happen" to an oem rear bar at least. I pulled mine on the black car at about 20k to install an HO, and came back to it setting on the ground and noticed one end was almost 2" off the ground. It was so unexpected it became an interesting triple-take WTF optical illusion moment. I thought my driveway might be "crooked" LOL. I got the car new, and only can't vouch for the first 10k when the GM manager had it. I know stockers are probably pretty soft steel, but all I could think was a.) defective from the start, or b.) left a few weeks one side kiltered in the air (?to change a flat maybe? haha), or c.) bad steel.

It hadn't caused a lean of any notice, but I was bummed I had to let the guy who I promised it to know that he wasn't getting it.

\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 09:27 AM
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You also have a (used cost effective) option in the 70-81 F-body front bar along with some GM Bushing options. I run this bar on the front and there is more info in the Impala SS FAQ and here is a CnPaste from that document....

Q: Can I reduce body-roll on the Impala some how?

A: The stock anti-roll bars for the Chevy B-bodies are all the same at 30mm front, 26mm rear, both solid. Those are standard on the Impala and 9C1, and are optional on the Caprice with the B4U suspension required with an LT1.

Herb Adams makes larger front and rear anti-sway bars: front bar is 33mm (vs. 30mm stock) and rear bar is 38mm (vs. 26mm stock). The front bar is attached to the stock control arm hole via solid tierod ends, and has absolutely no rubber or even urethane bushings, so its effect is immediate. The tierods have grease fittings, which allows them to be lubed along with the steerign linkage so there is no noise or wear. The front bars are attached to the vehicle frame via 36mm factory rubber bushings with fiberglass linings as used on '85-'92 F-cars. These bushings are very stiff and do not squeak, unlike aftermarket urethane ones. The rear bar attaches to the lower control arms using longer grade 8 stainless steel bolts in the stock control arm brackets. You can get the rear bar from Summit racing (216-630-0200) under the Herb Adams/Moroso name, part number MOR-86516 ('77-up B-car, cost $119). Call Herb Adams at (408)-649-8423 and ask them for the '77-up B-car front bar with tie-rod ends. See the installation instructions in the technical archives.

Hotchkis Performance recently introduced a custom set of sway bars for the Impala SS. The bars are lighter than stock: a hollow 1 7/16" front and a 1 1/4" solid rear contoured to the rear end. They have fluted polyurethane bushings with grease fittings, plated heavy duty brackets, polyurethane end links with heavy duty hardware, ultra smooth sway bar finish with gloss black powdercoating and they come complete ready to bolt on. As for performance, Hotchkis claims 7.8 mph faster through the 600' slalom test, crisp turn in, balanced handling and excellent ride comfort while cruising. They are available for around $450 or less through NAISSO.

Also note that a second generation F-body sway bar will work on the front of an Impala. The bar is from the 71-81 F-body, and is primarily fitted to Trans Ams and Z-28's. It is 1 1/4 in. (32 mm) in dia. and 35% stiffer than the stock SS bar. It is avialable in 2 ways: from GM as p/n 356534 (most common price quoted locally was $94.12), or from the local junkyard for $20-40. The best sources at the seem to be the '78 and '79 TA's and Z-28's. You won't need the end links or bushings, just the bar. The stock end links work very well. You'll need bar bushings, (2 are required) (Old PN 26039956, New PN 10288551), Sway Bar (PN 356534), Bolts (4) (PN 15959689), and End bushings (8) (PN 10221801).

Another (even cheaper) upgrade is to replace the factory Impala bushings with the much better urethane bushings from a 4th gen. F-car. These are available under p/n 10221801 and cost a whopping $0.68 each, for a total of $5.44 for all 8 that you will need. These have a specially designed recessed cup that retains the large washer and does not allow the bushing to skew sideways or become cocked like the factory bushings. The urethane material also seems to be of a higher grade. Aftermarket bushing kits are also available. This is a good "bang for the buck" mod for any Impala: the stock Impala bushings are very weak.

Another tip is to Replace the rubber frame bushings with GM p/n 26039956 (newer part # is 10288551: current F-body hardware) or aftermarket urethane bushings for 1 1/4 in. sway bars. The GM parts have a fiberglass liner that prevents noise and wear. If you use aftermarket urethane bushings, lube them with 3M Silicone Paste. Do not reuse the "prevailing torque" bolts that hold the front bushings to the frame. Use GM p/n 15959689 (4 needed @ $.42 ea.) as a replacement. The original bolts are likely to strip the threads in the frame if reused.

Back to the index...
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'95 Caprice SS conversion - Bonny Buckets - 96 Column, Shifter and Console - 3.73 Gear and Herter tune - Z/28 Cluster - Blazer OH Console - Green/Pink bushings - Chromed Impala Wheels - Eibach Springs and Bilstein Shocks - Corvette Engine Dress - the list goes on and still more to do...it never ends.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-28-2019, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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Bob & Bob, thanks for your comments. This all has me a bit befuddled. I've read a lot on many different things about our cars. Including the above. I'm leaning toward the BMR bars after reading Bob's(MoBo) reply and his experience. WTH, it's only $400 more on building my casket. Again, thanks to MoBo & PaBo.(Nothing to do with gender) Both are great help from beautiful states.

Mark: Snowman-33

93 9C1: Work & Cubic Ca$h This started with a new headlight and fender Celeritas In Conficiendo

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 08:58 PM
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sway bars

Hey Mark; I have been where you are. I have used the f-body sway bar, and the 1.5 rear bar back years ago on a 95 caprice. it will make a big difference. Just want to make sure that your hardware attaching to the body and rear lower control arms are good, even grade 8. A good hard turn, could stress those attachment points !


Its a good upgrade. just a fyi, the rear bar, will be just lower than your pumpkin, a straight line across..

Willie
95 SS DCM

Tulsa, OK
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019, 11:05 AM
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FWIW I have had Hotchkis F&R say bars on for at least 20 years now. I have replaced the end links for the front bar. For me the Hotchkis bars work great and I don't baby the car so they have seen some aggressive use over the years

Other brands, BMR, etc, have been used and those who have can comment on their impressions
Another front end item that can be added is the F body front frame brace. There was a GP back when where a vendor (F Body Pro Touring??) made a bunch for us who got them. They are a bolt in using the same attachment points as the front sway bar. Some had to, including me, "oval" out one side of the bars holes to get them to fit. No big deal. This bar connects the otherwise un supported frame horns on our B bodys

and I can't say enough about the Dick Miller "triangulation" braces for the rear. Especially if you drag the car but they work great, IMHO, for DD and canyon carving also
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BALLSS View Post
FWIW I have had Hotchkis F&R say bars on for at least 20 years now. I have replaced the end links for the front bar. For me the Hotchkis bars work great and I don't baby the car so they have seen some aggressive use over the years

Other brands, BMR, etc, have been used and those who have can comment on their impressions
Another front end item that can be added is the F body front frame brace. There was a GP back when where a vendor (F Body Pro Touring??) made a bunch for us who got them. They are a bolt in using the same attachment points as the front sway bar. Some had to, including me, "oval" out one side of the bars holes to get them to fit. No big deal. This bar connects the otherwise un supported frame horns on our B bodys

and I can't say enough about the Dick Miller "triangulation" braces for the rear. Especially if you drag the car but they work great, IMHO, for DD and canyon carving also
BallSS I'm on it. Right now in my stash, I have the Dick Miller bars, Vogtland springs, ES body bushings & links for sway bar. I have the Monroe SS shocks. Upper and lower control arms new bushings for the control arms F & R. All new steering and ball joints. I bought the steel and tubing to make the make my own F body steering brace and I welded the bar across the rear. As soon as I finish my garage I can blast my frame, weld in the box sections. (Got a good deal on the pre cut sections. I had them cut as per Choos suggestion $15 for both sides delivered.) I had intended to use POR15 on the frame but decided to go with Eastwood Platinum and internal frame coating. I guess I may be looking for a reason to buy new bars. That is as long as the little(?) lady is GTG. She is a Gem. Thanks Bud

Mark: Snowman-33

93 9C1: Work & Cubic Ca$h This started with a new headlight and fender Celeritas In Conficiendo
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019, 06:22 PM
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FWIW, I've had the 1.5" rear herb adams bar for more than 20 years on stock arms and more than 150K miles. Only few years ago did one of the arm inserts rust out to let a bolt loose. Replaced it with a new GM bracket and all good again.

Also, if you're concern about the bar hanging low "below the pumpkin", I have like a 1/2 to 5/8" stack of washers at the front bolts of the bar. It pivots the front down while raising the back of it. I'd have to look but pretty sure it's at least level with pumpkin.
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