[quote]I did a search but couldn't find anything conclusive.
I want to run Monroe shocks because of the lifetime warranty but my car is lowered and I want to make sure I get the right shocks.
Explain for everyone if the car is doing ok now and not bending or breaking stuff, why not simply take the model you are currently running and crossover to the same specs of another preferred brand. There are detail travel and size spec tables for the different models of all the major names - usually on the manufacturers website.
[QUOTE]How can I measure the drop? Any way to tell if the springs are worn out?
Pretty straightforward I should think. Get it on ramps if easier to see, but just eyeball the remaining shaft play at rest v. extra distance to the bumpstop to be safe from bottoming out. The brand, age and spec of the coils you have might give indication of how "worn out" they are. If they are not broken and give the ride feel and look you like (discounting the shock issue), then there is little reason to change for no reason. Unless already clear, shocks have zero affect on ride ht., except if gas-charged, and if so then only a 1/2" for a couple months til they settle.
[QUOTE]The rear springs fall out when lifting the car. What is the best way to prevent this?
LOL You hafta go a whole 3 dozen threads down to get to this:
[QUOTE]I think my rubber pads the go between the spring and the mounts are also missing. Where can I find replacements?
Go to most any carpart site and type, "coil spring isolator" or similar.
[QUOTE]I think I can run standard length shocks for the Front since its on lowered spindles but I assume I will need different shocks in the back?
Why are you assuming that? What are you not telling us about the back? You sure don't want a shock travel purposely shorter just to act as a coil "faller out preventer". Use the seatbelt or other welded or bolted fixes in that linked thread.
[QUOTE]I would like air shocks if possible since I plan to install a rather heavy subwoofer, extra battery and a few amps that I will carry around all the time, plus whatever additional loads I may carry. I may eventually install an on-board compressor and tank to adjust them on the fly inside the car.
You really totally don't want "airshocks". Use real shocks in combo with Airlift bladders. You can hook them to any compressor you wish.
I am open to the air lift setup but still need shocks that will work with this setup as well.
[QUOTE]Part numbers for the correct front and rear Monroe shocks, rear Monroe air shocks, rubber spring pads, air lift kit, and anything else I may need are greatly appreciated!
The probability is between none to zero that anyone else is running your exact setup. It'd be poor investment just gobbling up whatever part nos. get lobbed over the web to you without doing every bit as much back-checking to confirm everything as if you just started now on real research yourself. IMO you risk damage and/or unsafe performance "buying blind" on even well-meaning intentions of others.
It may sound like being contrary for no purpose, but your post jumped off the paper as one of those areas - brakes, suspension, tires, blah blah - where there ain't no one alive I trust more than myself for me's and my family's safety. :: rants off ::
\'96SS SOB: SSRI, Herter Tune, Tri-Y II, , 3000 Edge, F/HO bars, METCO extendeds with CV MMC, Bilsteins, currently Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta (315/35 rear). Finally, wait for it... LT-4 knock module!
\'96FWB BUW-Butt Ugly White: PCMPerformance tune, HDFA w/ swissed filter, 1/2 SLP s.s. catback with H- and Flow Super 50s, oem opti rebuilt 3 times, SS Bars, METCO LCA, Airlift 1000, Monroe SS, PowerTrax No-Slip, CTS wheels with +1 rubber. Finally, yes again... LT-4 knock module!
Last edited by 96 Black; 08-06-2019 at 01:00 PM.