Front upper control arms thoughts - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Unread Yesterday, 07:21 AM Thread Starter
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Front upper control arms thoughts

While searching again I found these. https://southsidemachineperformance....body-1978-1996 Has anyone used this set-up? If so what are your experiences? Anyone have some input/thoughts about this set? I already have the MOOG Problem Solver BJs but I'm going to buy new shafts, $140+. This would alleviate the hassle of rebuilding the uppers. I finally got the lower bushings out and it's not as easy as the dude on You Tube shows it to be. (He talks as if he were an army instructor. I know because I was one) Thanks all.

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Unread Yesterday, 10:11 AM
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I just installed a set of Mevotech uppers. The cross shafts, bushings and arms were fine, ball joints were a tad on the spindly side compared to Moog but the stock ones usually went 100k before getting worn, and the Mevotech ones are greaseable so I'm not worried about it. Upper balljoints aren't under the stress that lower balljoints are IMHO either. BTW Do NOT use the '95 FSM spec of 125 ftbs of torque for the upper ball joints; 65-70 is all you should need.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Unread Yesterday, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sherlock9c1 View Post
I just installed a set of Mevotech uppers. The cross shafts, bushings and arms were fine, ball joints were a tad on the spindly side compared to Moog but the stock ones usually went 100k before getting worn, and the Mevotech ones are greaseable so I'm not worried about it. Upper balljoints aren't under the stress that lower balljoints are IMHO either. BTW Do NOT use the '95 FSM spec of 125 ftbs of torque for the upper ball joints; 65-70 is all you should need.
Sherlock: I wouldn't have much trouble running those control arms. The link I gave shows tubular uppers with longer ball joints. The advertising hype states that taller BJs increase handling. My $140 quote was from O'Reilly for the shafts alone. I see RA has them for about half. MOOG & ACD are both reasonably priced complete control arms too. As I said I have the problem solver ball joints already but would be willing to change up if there is an improvement with the ones from Southside. Thanks for the torque info. BTW: Souhtside gives military discount too.

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93 9C1: Work & Cubic Ca$h This started with a new headlight and fender Celeritas In Conficiendo
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Unread Yesterday, 10:51 AM
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I also went with the inexpensive Mevotech from Rockauto with new cross shaft
and ball joint. only $45 each.

SouthSideMachine looks good but overkill.

Nab
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Unread Yesterday, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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Nab, thanks Bud. It may be just that (overkill). And too, I must be getting old. I looked a bit more and I had asked about these before. Fix Until Broke had a reply. I was really hoping someone had experience running these. Geesh I was coming home from Home Depot and saw a woman standing at the bus stop. Got closer and it was a fire hydrant. This old stuff is tuff. New question here though. There are 2 different types of upper shaft. I looked to see the advantage of the straight ones. More positive camber. But do I want that? Thanks again,

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Unread Yesterday, 01:26 PM
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I looked at the taller ball joints they offer; they are nice, but.... if you were racing or doing something that absolutely required top tier components, that's one thing. But if it's just a street car, just roll with the stock setup. GM engineered the stock steering the way they did for a reason; taller ball joints give you a turning performance advantage with the trade-off of the front end being more grippy at the limit, which would cause a typical driver to be more likely to get the car sideways and out of control.

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Last edited by sherlock9c1; Yesterday at 01:37 PM.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Unread Yesterday, 07:49 PM
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I just rebuilt my factory arms since it was much cheaper than any complete arms. Simple job with an air hammer a BFH and a block of wood. Used all MOOG PS parts and every last one of them was USA made which surprised me.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Unread Yesterday, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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I sure appreciate all the replies so far. As of now, since I have the parts, plan on rebuilding my originals. The driver's side has a wallowed out sway bar link hole but I think I can fix that. Once I get them all cleaned up and the welding done I can blast them and then powder coat them. Sinister, I was looking the other day and all of my MOOG parts are Made in the USA too = Happy Feet.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Unread Today, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sherlock9c1 View Post
I looked at the taller ball joints they offer; they are nice, but.... if you were racing or doing something that absolutely required top tier components, that's one thing. But if it's just a street car, just roll with the stock setup. GM engineered the stock steering the way they did for a reason; taller ball joints give you a turning performance advantage with the trade-off of the front end being more grippy at the limit, which would cause a typical driver to be more likely to get the car sideways and out of control.
You say that like it's a bad thing

And just remember, it was GM Engineering that gave us the optispark
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Unread Today, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by jiml View Post
You say that like it's a bad thing
Most drivers aren't as good as they think they are. Early on I had to learn the hard way that you can only control oversteer until you hit the steering stops. A new front clip later...

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And just remember, it was GM Engineering that gave us the optispark
I'd still run an optispark over a standard SBC distributor any day of the week. Far more accurate, simple to diagnose and easy to maintain. Think of it like a scuba diver: just keep it waterproof and breathing properly and it's fine.

"The unexamined life is not worth living." - Socrates

Last edited by sherlock9c1; Today at 10:45 AM.
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