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What the hell is this?

4K views 32 replies 7 participants last post by  HUF 
#1 ·
While removing the front wheel, I have noticed a strange pin going through a hole in lower control arm. It is attached to what I believe is stabilizer shaft.

The manual shows a bolt attached to the control arm. Is this what a bolt looks like now after it lost a nut??
 

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#2 ·
Close. It's what the bolt looks like after the bottom rots and snaps completely off. Part houses sell complete stab bar bushing kits, but most there will be 'performance' harder red urethane. OEM softer and quieter rubber can be mail-ordered. Get a replacement set with the same sleeve length as existing.
 
#4 ·
If you order the model-specific kit, it ought to come complete. Sometimes it can take creativity to get the assembly compressed just enough to get the nut started.
 
#6 ·
If the pic is to be trusted I've never seen bolt heads as slim as that. They look to be that way to fit all the way inside the washer depression - for what reason IDK. It may or may not be an issue getting them installed new, even if they try to spin as getting tighter you could just get a channel lock around the washer. But would sure affect removing later once rusted up a little if you can't even get a wrench on the head.
 
#8 · (Edited)
There are newer style kits that the nut is now a machined shaft that slides into the bushings hole. You no longer have to fight trying to compress the bushings while getting the nut to catch. They were a breeze to install.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CE3P9D4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The polyurethane bushings have holes in them so they're more plyable. Stiffness wise, they were in between the stiffer version GM rubber and autozone valuecraft which were the softest. Nice and quiet
 
#10 ·
91SS,

Thank you! I can see the difference - the barrel nut going through rubber bushing. I am wondering whether I can do the job without ramps or a hydraulic jack. I have only jack for a flat tire replacement (scissors jack) and two jack stands. Has anybody done this replacement using only scissors jack? Thanks.
 
#11 ·
What we did back in the high school days before money for such, we'd use tall curbs. You'd roll up one side of the car onto the curb, do that side. Then repeat with the other side. It keeps the suspension 'level' enough and when we were skinny enough :)
 
#12 ·
If you order from RA, remember the discount code.
 
#16 ·
Yesterday, I replaced the both stabilizer bar links. The old ones were rusted and I had to use a saw and grinder to get rid of them. The installation was very fast and easy. Used Moog's problem solver links. Thank you for all the good advice!

While I was under the car, I noticed that the passenger side stabilizer bar bushing was shot/deformed. That's the side the link was disengaged from the control arm. Is it a big deal to remove rusted bolts holding the bracket to replace the bushing? What is the stabilizer bar diameter for Fleetwood? RockAuto lists several diameters. I forgot to measure while I was there.

Also, the ball stud to which the pitman arm is connected did not take any grease. The grease fitting was fine. Do I have to replace the ball stud?
 
#17 ·
Interesting the RA listings show no fewer than 4 diameters, but nary a word on which oem suspensions they fit. If you can believe this post from the Cady Forums then this guy "thinks" that if your SPID shows the standard FE1 bar then it's 1": If 'twer me I'd just put a caliper around the bar and order from there.


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On the zerk I'd first eyeball close for physical damage, and then stick a pin in it to make sure it opens. I bought a HF box of various sizes when any fitting gives me resistance.
 
#19 ·
Be careful with the bracket bolts. They're a self tapping of sorts. You can usually get a way with one, maybe two reuses. It tends to strip out the frame threads. Best to get fresh regular bolts.
 
#21 ·
Not really. I went with a rivenut insert on the 91. Others IIRC welded a thicker plate with tapped holes. There are a few other solutions if you do a search. Also, the clearance is tight to the body of the bracket. I used allen head bolts rather than tracking do something else. You could use like header bolts, but they don't match the existing threads which pretty sure a metric of the top of my head.
 
#26 ·
Thank you. I think the disengaged link caused the deformation of the bar bushing. Even if I decide to leave the bushing alone, it will like not get further damage since the link is now in place.
 
#29 ·
You can re-tap holes to 7/16"-14 threads,and use allen head cap screws.
I eventually threaded hardened bolts through the inside of the frame to
act as studs. Then used 12pt.nuts to secure the bushings...
 
#32 ·
The photo reveals a good bit - one of the concerns is that what is left of the stabilizer link bolt is worn to a point by virtue of the bolt rubbing on and cutting into the hole in the lower control arm. A new link is better, no doubt, but the control arm still has a jagged non-concentric hole that will cause accelerated wear of the new insulator. We've fixed this on many used control arms with a cupped washer welded to the top of the control arm.

As far as the stabilizer shaft clamps on the frame, I recommend using 3/8" weld-nuts and appropriate bolts (with allen hex or similar small heads)....the OE bolt and the age of the frame leads to no real "fix" for an area that was sub-par when new, and even less so now. The frame material is just too thin to properly hold torque if anything larger may ever be installed. Optionally, the use of a Riv-Nut setup as 91ss did is the other best option, along with the idea of a reinforcing/nut plate.

PN 14458

The front stabilizer shaft on an FE1 car is 28mm - there are replacement clamps with urethane bushings and lube fittings that aren't terribly expensive. Plenty of 30mm front bars out there removed by owners over the years if you were looking for some improved roll resistance, especially if adding a rear bar.

Energy Suspension 9.5163
 
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