Rear Upper Arm Idea - Chevy Impala SS Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-08-2004, 04:18 PM
Rustic
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I was thinking about the problem with "bind" in the rear of our cars if you try to use urathane or other solid bushings in all locations. I have read most of the post on this issue... I think I have anyway.... and I was thinking this:

Has anyone tried a spherical bearing or rod end??

It seams that the problem is that the bushing will not "adjust" in the correct plane.... but a rod end/spherical would solve this problem.

The next issue, however, would be the harshness of the ride. Maybe a urathane bushing at the frame and a spherical at the Diff would be a good combo???

I mentioned this to a f*rd friend of mine and he was surprised no one made one for our cars... he said it's very common in the Mustang world... this is what I found:


Our new 3-piece poly-ball urethane bushing has a hard inner ball to prevent fore and aft movement, and softer outer ball cups to allow for proper angular rotation, which is necessary to prevent bushing bind. Our design is far superior to other 3 piece bushings with hard inner slivers, which causes corner break down during rotation of the lower control arm. This 3-piece poly-ball technology is standard on all our street and street/race mustang lower control arms.



Our spherical bushings are made of super strong 7075 billet aluminum, anodized bushing for less wear and a "teflon" coated com 12 bearing for maximum part life. These bushings will let your rear upper control arms and rear end move smoother and faster for more traction every time. Fits all 79-04 Mustangs.



This shot shows the adjustable uppers with a spherical rod end.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-08-2004, 04:24 PM
AutocroSSer
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Todd Stranczek did it (with good results) on stock uppers in his 96 SS.

So yes, it's been done
post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-08-2004, 04:26 PM
Rustic
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Cool... what exactly did he do?
 
post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-08-2004, 06:25 PM
AutocroSSer
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Boxed the arms, new stock (or Moog Rubber, forget which) bushings in the axle.

For the frame end, he used spherical bushings of the right diameter/length.

As I recall, it was about $30 for the metal bushings and this is definitely a DIY kinda project.

The spherical bushings he used are NOT lined (i.e. no teflon liner like the ones that Global West uses in their lower arms) so it DOES make some noise. Just a good reason to get a louder exhaust or stereo though
post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-13-2004, 03:03 PM
Rustic
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Here is a couple more pix. I think this is what I will try to build.


Then the question is wether or not a Spherical Bushing like this is needed on the axle end to augment the rod end at the frame mount. Or if the combo will allow too much movement.
post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-13-2004, 03:16 PM
bob shirley
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you have a nice design,spherical bushing must be of good quality.this setup is the best for any type of racing suspension.
post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-13-2004, 03:22 PM
Rustic
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I'm still trying to find a supplier for the spherical bearings.... and yes, they will need to be high quality.

Thanks for the pat on the back... but that's not my design. It's actually a Mustang part.
post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-13-2004, 04:36 PM
Navy Lifer
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Hotchkis is replacing the upper adjustable links in the Xtend (and other) rear arm kits with a new design. Check it out before you reinvent the wheel.

http://www.hotchkis.net/secure_index.html Look at the 65-70 big car listings, PN 1214 or 1215--not a good picture, but one end has a spherical, and the other end will have a clevis like the existing part for the late B-body, with the big hex adjuster in between. They may even be offering the new upper arms now, as part of the 1811 Xtend kit, but the website does not reflect that as the case. No idea if a separate PN will be assigned to make them available separately.

Global West has a new part to allow use of a spherical bearing on the axle end, which would be an option for your racing setup. The use of sphericals at both ends of the upper links should not cause or allow excessive side-to-side motion or cause any axle location problems. The opposing angles of the control arms keeps the arms in a fairly tight angle range at all times, and the axle remains in that same range, as long as the bushings/bearings are doing their job.

As Ed says, the other option is to look at what Todd S. did, though that is limited to stock wheelbase applications.
post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-13-2004, 05:06 PM
Rustic
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Thanks Bill... maybe I will just wait this one out. I talked to BMR today and they are also planing redesign their arm to use a rod end and/or spherical bearing.... so it looks like it's all coming around.

That pix on the Hotchkis site is similar to my first idea.... which was to just use my Coleman catalog and order some alum hex threaded tube and a couple of rod ends and jamb nuts... bang... you have a double rod end control arm. The problem is the axle mount location... but I haven't given up on the idea. That was one of those "this is too easy to really work" ideas.
post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-13-2004, 05:14 PM
Rustic
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Does anyone know the stock length of the upper? the only one I have in my garage right now (that's not on a car) is the BMR adjustable.
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